Ok so i have an 85 Camaro irocz28 with a TPI 305. I bought the car about 5 months ago and it just seems like its one problem after another with it. Motor only has 103000 miles on it and is in good shape electrical is just whats getting me. So ive been randomly having the problem of the car running all day and then at random times when i go to shut it it off and come back out and start it back up it just cranks over and no start? But if i walk away from it for like an hour or two and come back out it starts right up again..... I replaced the distributor cap and rotor and ignition coil thinking it may have been one of those and the car ran still but still had the same problem.... Now the other day i drove it in the morning for about half an hour and went in the house and came back out to start it and it didn't even crank over this time, I have full battery power and when i turn the key full power to everything it just wont turn over..... I tested the starter and it is also still good. Any ideas??????

 

Bump

 

Check for codes probably VATS

 

No VATS in 85.

 

Got the same problem. Is everything in time? I verified mine is in time and I'm still having the same issue, but it may be your issue.

 

you need to check to see if you have spark and injector pulse when this happens. Possable injectors or ignition coil module !

 

What does it sound like when it wont start? Just it just crank? no noise at all?

 

it sounds like rrrrrrrr lol

 

Could be a bad battery.

 

i have just spent $2000 getting my 87 iroc 305 tpi running right, after changing sensors and cap rotor wires plugs ecm it all boiled down to a wire that runs behind the distributor and splices into 4 or 5 more wires that feed some sensors. the splice was loose from rusting over the years. the car would run alright until it heated up and shut off then it would not restart until several hours or next day. it had no injector pulse everything else specked out right.
hope it helps
mike

 

if the engine doesnt crank and you have a good battery check neurtrul safty switch if cranks but dont start check for spark and then check that it is getting fuel

 

newbie here. im having the same problem here but mine all started after installing flowtech headers and y-pipe, plugs,cap,and rotor. have good spark(@ all wires)checked by installing 8 spark testers,also checked spark to each cylinder with plugs grounded to the heads. had fuel (41 psi) and injector pulse while cranking on every injector(with noid light). all injectors cold @15.7(min)-16.0ohms max. checked iac w/ noid light been tryin to get this started for 4 days. used brand new AC delco wires, cap,rotor and plugs. Already tried new coil and new ignition module(same results) also tried old cap and rotor and wires. all spark plugs come out soaked with fuel so im certain ive got fuel. old plugs were @ .035 gap. new plugs have .035 gap. tps .54v closed throttle koeo,and 4.20v @WOT koeo.
i also changed the fuel filter and the old one is squeaky clean. FULL tank of fresh fuel
Verified firing order a dozen times 18436572 clockwise from 1.checked as many fusible links as i could find. no blown fuses or links. as far as i know, i dont have VATS.i only have 1 keythat came with the car and there is no resistor on it. read lots of similar posts.
KOEO, i have code 12. verified that distributor is turning and have not disturbed engine timing. and i have verified that it is in time(mechanically) except for pulling the timing cover. I have double checked this by setting cylinder 1 to tdc on compression stroke and looking inside the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole with a boroscope camera.also did the same thing with cylinder 6. both valves are closed @ tdc on the compression stroke
correct me if i'm wrong :i have injector pulse and spark while cranking so can i rule out the inductive pick up coil in the distributor??
i disconnected the battery before begining ANY work. car ran and started perfectly before the header install. I have also tried using ether with no success. i have also removed all spark plugs and cranked over to clear out the raw fuel and have dried the spark plugs and still have all the same symptoms. I am actively trying to contact the previous owner to gather more info about any previous problems/repairs of this nature. ive owned and repaired lots of cars and ive never had this happen EVER.
i have not done ANY other repairs on this car because i just put it on the road last week and hadn't encountered any problems until now.
it sounds like its going to fire but by then, my battery starts sh%$ing the bed and i have to charge it back up for the next round of dissapointment.
AM I MISSING SOMETHING??????? please let me know if i am because im outta ideas at this point......
the ONLY things that i removed before installing headers:
negative battery terminal,tps pigtail,IAC,alternator pigtail,coolant temp pigtail, 02 sensor(single wire)oil dipstick tube(broke that) plugs,wires and starter THATS IT.
I have read through countless wiring diagrams and posts but im not ready to give up.
ANYBODY OUT THERE???
I'm STILL stumped!!!!!!
I can see the grey hairs multiplying and I'm not married and don't have any kids yet!!WTF
No start nightmare continues!!!!
ANY help greatly appreciated
ANY HELP AT ALL??????? IM GOIN NUTS WITH THIS CAR!!!!!!!!dont know what else to do at this point or what i could have done to deserve this
I dont have full coverage but i've got the torch ready and im getting itchy to torch this heap(just kidding))
The frustration of owning a chevy continues. scrapping this heap is looking more attractive by the second. should have stuck with mustangs. NEVER had these kind of problems. once this thing is fixed, this car is GONE with the wind. FIRST AND LAST CHEVY FOR GOOD. PURE GARBAGE

 

That's my guess.

When the injectors go, typically they'll start running ultra lean when they're warm. Makes it nearly impossible to start when the car is lean like that. So the car will start up fine overnight. Maybe start after driving for 10 minutes. But if you drive it for 15 minutes, it won't start for hours. It will just crank.

Ohm testing the injectors for 16+ ohms is good. 12 ohms and they're shot. It's important to ohm test them when they're hot. As that's the real test to see how they're doing.