my son and i were wondering, if we were to remove all the smog erquipment off of his 1987 305 tpi iroc. If it would effect the emissions and throw a service engine light. the only thing i could think of is the o2 sensors in the exhaust, you wouldent be blowing air into the exhaust manifolds . thanks for the replys.

 

Welcome to TGO. You can remove the smog pump with no effect. The only problem is if you have to be smog checked in your state for certification. Search on here, there is a lot of info on smog delete.

 

I have had mine removed for the last 5 years with no issues.

 

Of course this is for "off road use only" LOL

If you remove EGR it will throw a code for sure. But I don't see flags for AIR or any programming for it either. Actually EGR is the only emissions programming I see in the program code.

 

The air injection into manifolds is only on startup anyway

 

Testing-wise you'll be fine. Upon visual inspection though...If they are doing their inspection job correctly, you'll still fail before the testing even starts.

The laws aren't made to get better emissions output or there would be zero inspection of the parts. So even if your engine blew clean, and it would, it would fail on "equipment tampering"...technically.

 

do you have to move pulleys or just a different belt size?

 

Depending on the motor, i only needed to take the little v belt off and then remove the pump. Some need a smog delete pully, some just need a different belt. https://www.thirdgen.org/serpentine

 

thanks for all the quick responses, from what i understand that pump is to keep the emmisions down untill the convertor heats up.

 

I have a 1989 iroc-z28 350

 

I have a 89 formula 350. No EGR/no electric vac switch 4 EGR, A.I.R.,anything, stock chip.
No codes thrown for that stuff since I removed it in 91. 240,000 miles on her now.

 

no egr valve or no egr valve solenoid? Or both.

 

The belt size if you want to bypass the a/c pulley and smog pump pulley is 69" 1/8....I did this on my car and only needed to buy an idler pulley off of an 02 Saturn Vue. You'll have to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner in place quite a bit in order to get it on, I've found the easiest way is to wrap the belt over everything else first and then slide it over the waterpump last, it should create a V from the new pulley to the alternator(this is the only way to clear the radiator hose), then manhandle the tensioner into the correct position( there is a notch on it that fits into a hole) and tighten the main bolt and it should line itself up and create a super tight tensioned belt...I haven't taken out my lines for the smog system yet but if you'd like pm me and I'll let you know what I did if you'd like.

 

This ^^

 

Smog suck, remove it all.

 

You obviously don't need to be inspected for regristration. We don't either in Wisc. but there are many states that do. So It's not so simple for some.

 

Arent alot of our cars now smog exempt now that they are 25 years old? "classic cars"

 

It depends on the state.

 

This^^ In a lot of states you still have to pass the visual test which....removing the smog pump will cause you to fail.

 

Exactly! No more smog testing means exactly that. No more TESTING & doesn't mean anything else.

During the Visual Inspection, the parts still need to be there. Cats can be gutted & smog pumps disabled, but they still have to look like they are still functioning.

Even in non-smog States or Counties (my State tests but not in all the Counties) the parts are still supposed to be in place for the Visual portion but due to no Testing, nobody really cares if the part is gone.

 

I flew through houston, Do they have emisions there? It was MUCH cleaner than L.A....at least around the airports.

 

TX is based in the Counties not the cities but yeah....The County that Austin, DFW & Houston set in are Emissions inspection counties. I *think* El Paso is too, but I dunno what county that is out there.

http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/rsd/vi/...nCriteria.aspx

Which vehicles are required to have the emissions test?

• Vehicles registered in designated counties. Designated counties include: Brazoria, Fort Bend, Galveston, Harris, Montgomery, Collin, Dallas, Denton, Ellis, Johnson, Kaufman, Parker, Rockwall, Tarrant, Travis, Williamson and El Paso counties.
• Gasoline powered vehicles. Diesel powered vehicles and motorcycles are exempt from emissions testing, but are still required to have the annual safety inspection.
• Vehicles 2 through 24 years old OR upon expiration of the two-year initial inspection sticker.

 

cool, I had always wondered about that. Although I have to say, I hope I never make that flight again...MS to OR...quite the move! anyway I'll get

 

which hoses do i keep and how do i run them? with and without heat. thanks

 

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/u.../Enginebay.jpg The hose for the heater runs to the rad, then makes 2 bends into some weird contraption, then to the firewall. My a/c compressor is removed, as well as the piping with it, I also removed the box that the smog pump blows air into via metal tube on the backside of the smog pump, I replaced the T in the air injection system connecting both exhaust manifolds with an L also.

 

explain the manifold hoses again please. awesome pic though.

 

Removed a/c and smog pump, replaced ac with pulley, and got a smaller belt, no codes from that.

 

i now know how 2 run the heater hoses thanks to you.

 

a/c unit is new and works perfectly, dont want to remove it

 

The exhaust manifold hoses? The right side exhaust manifold has a rubber hose coming from the top of it back behind the engine and running perpendicular to the left exhaust manifold hose(this is where the T is that I replaced with an L). Then runs into the air injection system central hub.

P.S. Most people just cap them off at the top of the aluminum tubes where they converge to go into the hose, I didn't have a wrench the right size for it so I just bought that L section.

 

When it's on the car it will look like this:


You then need to take the cover off and unplug the 2 wires running to it and remove the tube I'm holding onto from the smog pump.
Picture of cover removed:

That long hose is the hose that runs to your catalytic converter.

 

thanks man i got it all ran except the vacuum lines, any suggestion on the vacuum the runs to the smog pump spliter?

 

im an idiot, nevermind the vacuum lines.

 

So I take it you got everything out?

 

yeah, no leaking antifreeze lol. gotta remove the pump and put in a delete pully. thanks for ALL your help man.

 

my ac just fried so i guess its coming off too now. ima put both delete pullies on though. i think at least.

 

Is there anything to gain fom removing all of the hoses and components other than visually looking better. Can i just remove the smog pump belt to improve performance?

 

Getting rid of all that AIR plumbing certainly clears up the engine bay!

 

the air pump puts O2 into the exhaust stream to help with the completion of the combustion reaction in the convertor....there's some small amount of fuel that doesn't get burned when it comes out of the engine....with the extra o2 and a hot convertor the reaction is finished...so your exhaust has less CO and more CO2....lots of cars come from the factory without an air pump and they run clean anyway.... so if you can pass inspections, you should be fine.

 

is there a bracket i need 2 buy for the air and ac delete pulleys?

 

So you are going to bypass the a/c and smog pump? Do you want to just run the belt like I did mine? I just got an idler pulley off of an 02 saturn Vue and a belt that is 69" 1/8 long. It goes over the idler, water pump, crank pulley, alternator and power steering pump.

 

yeah, im taking them both off, the a/c quit working so no need to have the clutter. i want it to look stock so i want to put the delete pulleys on.

 

I spent 40 bucks for my setup, not sure how much those delete pulleys are though...

 

i recently ran a question about removing the smog pump or the air injection system on my 1987 305 iroc. asking if i would get codes if i would remove it. every one replied that i would be ok and i would not get any codes. guess what? i got a egr code a maf sensor code and a rich exhaust code now what? replce it all.

 

i wonder if you didn't knock some connector off when you did your work...that's allot of codes for basically removing the air pump from the engine. does it still run well? you could always pull the bulb from the "check engine soon light" it really only is there for emmissions reminders...it wont' tell you usefull things like " no oil" "overheating " and the like....

 

MCweens, Sounds like something up with the EGR. Check that hoses or wire connector isn't off during your pump removal. There are no flags for AIR system. Only MAF and EGR. both separate systems from the AIR.

 

when i took mine off it made my MAF stop reading, replaced it and it works fine now, my erg valve solenoid doesnt work causwe its broke but its very hard to find a new one, i find used ones all over but i have a problem spending $75 on a used part, does anybody know where to find a new one at?

 

That is strange because I sell lots of chips for these cars and most don't have AIR pumps and report no problems. Anyone else know why the removal of PUMP on 86-89 MAF cars would throw a MAF flag?

 

I know that the EGR solenoid is no longer made if that's what you are asking. But is my understanding that the corvette one is and can be modified by extending the wire some or rerouting it.

 

No codes on my 87 MAF with no smog pump & I'm pretty sure the pump is gone off the 85 MAF I'm buying & I know it had no codes last week when I test drove it.