So I'm replacing my injectors finally, and I figure since I have the intake off I'm going to do a little freshening up in there. What should I take care of? EGR and gasket is new, manifold gasket is new, have new runner and plenum gaskets already, ordered a pigtail for my IAC (smashed mine to bits a while back, don't know how it still works), ordered a male O2 connector to hopefully replace my smashed EGR temp sensor connector, and I plan on realigning my distributor to get the plug wires routed the way they were. What else could I do? Should I clean anything special? Replace any cheap sensors, vacuum lines, anything? Keeping this motor stock, should I bother with a AFPR? Just wondering if there are any common problems I could easily prevent while I'm down there.


Also, is there supposed to be silicone around my 9th injector? Seems...silly.

 

wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the mat and fuel rail cross over o-rings.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...entifier=79645

 

I would remove the cover off the fuel reg and check the condition of the diaphragm.
Real bummer having to dismantle a newly assembled intake if the reg takes a dive shortly after you get it all back together

In fact unless you know age of the diaphragm I would replace it while you have everything apart.
One thing you can remove from the bucket list of possibilities if you have fuel problems in the future

 

Slide a 350 under it?

Seriously, the PO must have had a vac leak at the 9th injector and shoemakered it. I'd replace that o-ring before reassembly.

 

Finally a day off. I'll check out under the regulator, but for the CSI is it supposed to be an o ring, not a gasket or anything else? Napa can't find it so I'm just gonna bring it in and match something up.

 

just a o-ring too seal the csi, I posted the link to the autozone part number.

 

Gotcha. But is there a gasket for little mounting flange thing? It seems like that's what the goop was for, the o ring seems intact.

 

just a o-ring too seal the csi no gasket

 

Roger that, Napa didn't have a suitable sized o ring but the one in place seenms fine so I was just going to clean it up and reinstall and hope for the best. But now I notice that the inside lip, the part further into the intake than the o ring, is bent in one spot. Perhaps this is why there was so much silicone. I'm sick of battling intake leaks, is this a possible source?

 

The CSI can definitely be a source of an intake leak if not sealed off..

I had a leak around my CSI once. I had replaced it with one I got off of Ebay in hopes that it would fix what I thought at the time was a leaky injector problem. The CSI turned out to be bent slightly, and not sealing itself completely to the plenum. After driving myself crazy wondering why I had high idle problems, I finally tracked it down using starting fluid...

Best of luck getting your CSI to seal off. If all else fails scour Ebay and the forums here to try and find a replacement.

 

I think you should just buy the block off kit on ebay and change too $6e programing done deal.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-88-Camaro...c0e207&vxp=mtr

 

I totally would if I was gonna keep this motor in the long run, but after I get the car all put back together I'm going to start building a 350 I have in the garage, so I don't want to get into computer tuning just yet.

So do you guys think I should just get a new injector? Could I try to bend it back or do you think that surface is just too sensitive for any imperfection? I don't want to have to go into the intake again, although I guess you don't need to for the CSI.

 

At least you're doing all this now and found what may be a problem. Might as well just try to find a replacement, new ones are a arm and a leg. I remember when my CSI was faulty, I had terrible cold starts, it was clogged. Fixed it and car starts up on a dime every time. If the car came with it, may as well leave it how it is and get another one.

 

Hmm after a little searching, CSI's are tough to find. There's a couple on ebay, but the more I think about it the more I'd rather just get rid of the damn thing. Is it imperative to change the prom? I know very little about it aside from where it is, so if I did would it be easy? Cheap? Would it be plug n play with an essentially stock 305? Would I be able to use this $6e for my 350?

 

The programing is easy too change but you need too run a different calibration for the fueling and timing of the 350 vs the 305. You can get a g1 at moates.net to install a piggyback eprom and make you changes there but I have just soldered in moates.net d2's so you could change between calibrations easier or solder in a flash eprom sst27sf512. This is a picture of a tpi speed density memcal but you can get the idea.

 

So I'm just gonna try bending that lip back for now and hoping it works. If not, at least I can deal with that without taking the whole intake off again. But reading about custom proms made me realize something...I have headers with no AIR or EGR ports, yet I have an EGR valve. I can't for the life of me figure out where the EGR is supposed to be drawing exhaust fumes. It seems to come up through that baby runner into the plenum, and then though a secret passage to the throttle body...but then what? Am I missing something? Is this a giant intake leak or does the fact that the EGR is still functional mean that it simply introduces fresh air instead of exhaust? I'd make a new thread for this question since it's off topic, but I have a feeling I'm going to be embarrassed by the answer.

Oh and the reason I thought of this from reading about proms is that without these two systems disabled in the prom, that'd be two more bugs in the system, no?

 

the egr draws the exhaust gasses from the passenger side port in the head. I think you are confused with the corvette tpi. the other side of the passage goes from the egr up the small runner tube on the pass side too the plenum y's out and out behind the tb.

 

Oh, cool. I was actually thinking it was similar to my old V6 EGR, I'm assuming the same as the vette cuz yeah I was expecting a tube coming off the exhaust. So I have a fully functional EGR system. Good to know. In that case, back to injector 9 and regulator diaphragm...

 

good idea too change the mat vs egr and mat vs air tables if you delete these two item's I believe mv will be added to the o2 reading when the air pump is commanded on to make up for the extra air in the exhaust system. The o-ring is what makes the seal when you push down on the csi. you can bend down the tab a little but the o-ring is the seal here. the fit should be real snug. you should lube up the new o-ring with a little engine oil or petroleum jelly. the tab often gets bent when people pry out a stuck 9th injector. If you do buy the delete kit I suggest using the o-ring from the autozone kit the one that comes in the block off kit seems a little too loose.