Hey Guys,

My 90 T/A won't start... The Fuel Pump comes on ( I can hear it back there) and the starter works (I have a push button wired up to it) and the coil is getting power, yet the car won't turn over... if I use the key it acts like the starter is bad, nothing happens when I turn the key to start. if I use the push button it just keeps trying to crank. Acts like it doesn't have spark or fuel...

I haven't tested the plugs to see if their getting power... also it start starting acting this way. I pulled it around back to remove the interior and I cut that safety belt wire. (it's getting a 5 point soon) yet this shouldn't be a issue I would assume...

 

For the recording ; cranking is turning over ( on the starter )
What you are referring to is NOT FIRING ?( or starting )

You are going to have to do some more investigation on your own before you will get help
No fuel and / or no spark? Which.
Pull a spark plug .
Wet plug ; no spark
Dry plug ; no fuel
Let us know

 

Join it back together and see if it solves your problem ; if that is the only change you have made before it stopped working

 

The starter will turn with the push button, not the key, I'm getting power to the coil, and the rotor button turns, I'm gonna check the plugs tomorrow, and fuel. so I don't know why it won't turn.

and I connected the wire and still nothing.

 

You just said the rotor in the dist is turning so the starter must be cranking (turning ) over the engine.

 

Get the ignition module in the distributor tested at a local auto part store

 

Was the key not cranking the engine the first problem you had? Did you bypass the starter relay when you put in the push button? If so, then maybe your first problem is a VATS problem. Even if it cranks the computer may/maynot shut off the injectors when the VATS doesn't sense a resistor from the key.

 

Good call ,
he never stated why he installed a PB
If the VATS module is not reading the key correctly it will never fire up, regardless of what he has done to operate the starter

 

I installed a push button to start moving away from the keyed daily driver and getting into a racing mode with this car, however I have it wired up so the button with only work if the ignition is on, it has a relay on it but separate.

I was thinking it's the Netural Safety switch or the Ingition Sol. the fuel pump kicks on I can hear that, the starter works, and the plugs are getting spark... so not sure why it's giving me grief...

If it keeps this issue up... then it's gonna get carb'd and gutted. more so than it is...

 

Yes it was, never had a issue before and I've had the push button for well into 4 months now with no issues till now..

 

OK. So I'm not getting fuel. Fuel pump works. Relay is fine. So trying to figure out what is keeping fuel from getting to the injectors

 

Before I went any further I'd check the injector fuses.
Your VATS still could be the problem. I don't know what the wiring looks like in you car but it could be the computer, VATS, bad ground(s), and a number of other things I can't think of off hand. Best option is to do a search for 'injectors not firing'.

 

Yeah. But I would think its the VATS now... the key won't crank the car over at all. I may need to by pass it somehow... without a chip burn if I can. I'd like to get this thing back on the road. But if the VATS is a issue then its so long fuel injection...

 

If it is the VATS, I've mostly ran into it being the wires broke in the column that the resistor goes to. I think there are two thin white wires near the base of the column. If your key still has its original resistance then splice the wires and put the key in between. IF it works, then hit up radioshack and put the correct resistor(s) in line. Then forget about the VATS once again.

 

I thought you had a PB wired that bypassed the key function?
Does the PB crank the engine over ?

Bypass the starter enable relay correctly so the starter works
And buy this
http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/ to give the injector signal to the ECM.

VATS gone completely

 

Yes the PB will crank it, but no pulse to the injectors I think, I have pressure on the rails and when I shoot strating fluid in the TB it'll turn over.

Does the ignition switch control the VATS system and all that to tell the computer to send a pulse?

Also could I remove the ign switch and wire it up to a toggle switch instead? or will the VATS not work due to that stupid key deal?

I hate early GM Anti-Theft devices... by the by, is there a diagram that comes with that module for where to splice it in at?

 

okay so I bought a bypass system for the VATS and it still won't run. I've pulled the steering column apart and replaced the ignition solenoid. And still nothing. The security light still stays lit. I'm running on fumes here on what to do. Please any help would be great

 

have you actually put a fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the tpi rail?

all you said is you can hear your fuel pump. you need to make sure you are getting good fuel pressure ~40 psi. if you don't see good pressure you could have a problem with plugged fuel filter, bad fuel pressure regulator (on the rail), or problem with injectors

you should also check your injector fuses and then you can also resistance check each of the injectors. take the wiring clip off the injector (push the wire tab in and pull the plug off) and each injector should measure in the 14-16 ohm range. if you measure less than 10 that injector is more than likely bad

you can also get a injector wiring tester at the parts store, it is a clip on light that plugs into the harness and then as you crank it over you can see if the computer and wiring are actually trying to fire the injector

 

OK. I have pressure at the rails 45psi last I checked. The pump kicks on everything else works. I added the switch panel for ***** and giggles and I wanted to do something with it. I turn the key and nothing happens. The starter works because the push button will try to turn it over. Its has to be the VATS. That's the only thing I can thing of. I bought a new key lock and had a new key cut from a dealer. So I'm a little lost now.

 

Could the relay be bad and cause all this as well? my battery is dead right now, if I get a new battery and turn it on and let it set will the system "learn" the correct resisitance is there? or am I going to have to ditch the TPI and go with (in my opinion) a better setup and gut the VATS and EFI out to even drive this thing again? or should I call the scrap man and junk this thing cause honestly this VATS is really, really, REALLY starting to **** me off

 

If you correctly installed the fuel enable device I linked above
( you did buy that one , not a VATS bypass resistor for the column ????? )
then VATS no longer a feature ; nothing to learn

You said you bought the VATS bypass so VATS should not be a problem anymore as far as fuel goes
You said you have bypassed the key with a pushbutton so the VATS starter enable relay should not be a problem anymore

If the ECM is getting the fuel enable signal then something else is stopping your injectors from firing

 

Yeah I bought the cheap resistor deal because the only thing I can think of that would cause the car not to start was one of the wires on the ignition solenoid was broken.when I jump the wire I try to turn over and it turned over barely so I figured that was my problem. so I bought a new solenoid and had a new key cut at a dealership and it still wont turn over...

 

okay so I bought the new bypass kit from Baker electronics my question is what would be the best wire location to cut into. obviously I need to splice into the fuel enable circuit 229. My question is is there a quick location to find that wire and splice into.

 

You should of had me reprogram out the vats for $30. You can tap onto the blue wire at the ecm pin f10 on the light green or yellow connecter assuming this is a tpi 1227730 ecm.

 

yes that is the number on the ECM. However I can't the wire going to B6... not F10... I do not see a f10... just A,B,C,D and a Second C & D... if I send you my ECM you can program out the vehicle anti theft system?

 

The back of the connecter is kind of confusing. If you send me just the memcal chip inside th ecm would be all I need to disable the vats. If you want more reprograming done send me a pm I can go over my pricing and shipping address. here is a picture of the cavities labeled .