Just bought the car a few weeks ago. Car is an 87 Iroc 305 TPI. Runs fine when my foot is on the pedal or when in cruise control. If I am stopped at a light or at idle car will randomly stall.

GM Mechanic told me that it's because the car has an EGR delete done but the ECU does not have a PROM for the delete.

As far as I know the EGR delete is a pretty common mod and I have not been able to find anybody who is experiencing this same issue.

 

Your egr shouldn't be doing anything at idle anyway so I wouldn't call that a suspect. I highly recommend that you get the egr tuned out of the programming. When cruising the computer is changing spark lead to make up for the added exhaust gases in the intake charge. Could lead to spark knock or other problems.

As far as your stalling problem, any codes? (It'll probably have 32 for the egr already)There's little to go on so you'll have to look for anything out of place. Wiring look fine, tps loose, loose air intake etc.

 

okay, So all I need is this http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...r-Pricing.html to tune out the EGR. Option 1.

Going to try cleaning my IAC Valve today.

 

when i replaced my 700r4 a few years back with a used one, i had an issue where it continually stalled when i put it in gear. turned out it was a 5cent ball bearing and spring valve to control the torque converter lock up. dont know if that helps, but thats what it was with mine. when it stalled it had no codes since it wasnt the engine's fault.

 

I am running a T5 so rule that one out, thanks though

 

You can go that route or you can use Tuned Performance. He's a great guy on the boards. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...g-memcals.html

 

I HAVE A SIMILAR PROBLEM. ENG STARTS / FIRES AND IMMEDIATELY STALLS. ENG WILL IDLE IF OPEN THROTTLE PLATE A SMALL AMOUNT. POWER IS GOOD AT HI TPS POSITIONS AND ENG RUNS STRONG AND SMOOTH ON HIWAY . ALL IGN PARTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED . FUEL PUMP AND FILTER REPLACED. TIMING RESET TO FACTORY SPECS ON HOOD. CTS REPLACED. PASSED EMISSIONS 2 MONTHS AGO. THROTTLE CRACK W/ DWNSHFT IS GOOD. I RECENTLY DELETED THE A/C AND PULLED EVERYTHING INCLUDING CONTROL HEAD OUT OF CAR. I PLUGGED THE VAC LINE RUNNING FROM R/H SIDE OF INTAKE TO CONTROL HEAD. (1990 5.7 TPI WITH MAP SENSOR AND 700R4 ) . I SUSPECT THE IAC. ILL POST MORE WHEN I TEST IT. SO FAR I HAVE VERIFIED FULL OPEN SIGNAL FROM ECM TO IAC ( 160 COUNTS ) PULL THE CONNECTOR AND THE ENG IDLES AROUND 1500 RPM. RECONNECT AND ENG IDLES NORMAL. IAC GHOST ? ENG NO LONGER IDLES. DIES IMMEDIATLEY.

 

You're going to have difficulty doing proper diagnostics with your mods...

 

I KNOW. IT SUKS.

 

I have a 92 Z28 305 TPI that was stalling at idle at red lights, stop signs, etc., but otherwise a SUPER running car in all other driving scenarios. I put all kinds of injector cleaner through it and it would run fine at highway speeds but didn't stop the falling off completely at idle. I took it to a local Chevy dealership preparing to hear it was a couple of grand to replace everything in the fuel system. To my pleasant surprise, the service manager said it was a temp sender (one of two on the car) that wasn't communicating with the other one and causing the car to stall when the computer was "told" by the bad sensor that the car was cold and to shut off the air to the mix. $34 for the new sensor and a buck and a half for labor but I've had absolutely NO problems since and I've put several hundred miles on the car in all possible driving conditions. So, I hope this helps someone who is going crazy trying to figure out a similar situation.

 

BAD LUK FOR ME I JUST REPLACED MY CTS AND MY IAC WONT OPEN WHEN KEY ON AND 160 COUNTS ON SCANNER SOFTWARE. CARBURATION LOOKING BETTER EVERYDAY....