well, the other day i got the famous code 32 on my 91 Z. i found a tube to the egr solenoid was disconnected so i put it back, after that i got the code again, so i disconnected the battery to reset the ecm. Other than the valve itself and the solenoid, what else would trigger code 32? if the problem rises again i wanna find it.

 

any one?

 

EGR Temp. Diagnostic switch malfunction , unable to get 10" of vacuum to EGR valve. It could be alot of different things. If it comes back post again or E-mail me directly and I'll try to help. Later Chris

 

In my book it comes up as baro meter sensor circuit fault.

 

ROD, are you lookin in your Haynes book? Im sure you are. Look at chapter 13 for revisions. There is a new set of error codes for the later model thirdgens. And ill post again if the problem comes up. Where is the temp sensor located?

 

I too have this code runnig code 32, how do i check the egr and the EGR Temp. Diagnostic switch ?? I just put a new motor in and the only mods are a custom cam @.050 208\222 and AFR 190 heads with teh heat risers. I have 15 inches of vacume. Can anyone help me?

 

Don't get me started on how much money I wasted trying to fix a Code 32, so I'll skip right to the fixes...

First, are you noticing any kind of performance decrease? If so, I am 95% sure you've got a vaccum leak... and since you said you found an unplugged hose, then reattached it with no difference, double check and make sure you got it on there nice and tight. Check ALL the hoses (I think there are like, 3).

Did that, and they looked fine? Check out the solenoid, does it look worn out? It could very well have stopped functioning... does the code stay on at all times? or does it only come on when you drive? if so, what speed are you doing?

Finally, your entire EGR valve may be worn out. That was my problem and it wasn't until I had spent $500 tracking it down that I found this out when I went to the dealership with my car. When they pulled it out (after removing the plenum), and showed it to me, the entire device was charred and brittle from 11 years of exhaust gas eating away at it. I had them install a brand new one, and BANG, no more Code 32!!

-ONE2FLY

 

Good point. Sometimes people can spend more money trying to fix something themselves rather than just take it to a dealership in the first place. This is ESPECIALLY true if you don't have a scan tool to monitor your engine and (hopefully) track down the problem. And sometimes, even a scan tool may not help.

As Dirty Harry said "A man has got to know his limitations".

Good luck.

 

Scanner in front yard. I'll try again later.

 

One2FLY,

Thank you for the wealth of info you gave me. Yet again tonite the light came on again. It seems to only do it when im holdin above 60 or so for a distance. I will have to go give it a good inspection tomorrow. Just outta curiosity, whats the goin rate for the vale, solenoid and/or the diagnostic switch? Wors case scenario, i just replace em all and be done with it. But b4 a dime is spent i will have to check all connections again. Thanx again guys.

 

A lot of you guys like to start replacing things trying to get rid of codes... then when you replace tons of things, you get ticked and want to convert to Carburetor... save yourself the headache and empty bank account, and take it to the dealer to get diagnosed.. make sure its a driven dignostic check.

 

There are very few parts to replace when diagnosing a 32 in a speed density TPI car. As already said, you have vacuum lines to and from the solenoid, the 'noid, and the EGR valve. The MAF cars also have a temp sensor on the EGR valve itself. Besides these parts, you also have to factor in blockages in the intake/transfer tube/plenum that would restrict the EGR. Also a good idea to check the off idle slot in the TB that the solenoid gets it's vacuum from to make sure that isn't blocked.
I can't vouch for the MAF cars, but SD cars seem to get this code pretty regularly, even with everything working right. My 92 used to intermittently get this code. It was a true intermittent, sometimes i could drive steady state for 3 hours straight and no code, other times it would set within minutes. It's important to know that the EGR diagnostic in the ECM only happens when driving steady state at highway speed (i.e. cruise control.) Since it was truly intermittent for me, and all the parts seemed OK to me, i gave up and disabled code 32 in my PROM. The EGR test in the SD cars is apparently hard to 'pass' so that even a working system can appear to not be working.

 

Thank you all for the valuable info! My SE light comes on after i clear the code and drive the car for about 15 min, then it comes back on. However, if i let the car set for a while and drive it later, the light stays off but if i check the code, it is still there with out the SE light on. And in the mornning when i first start my car it runs like crap and hardly holds an idle. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get some carb cleaner to check for vacume leaks. I'll keep you posted on my results.

Thank you all again

 

Code 32 , I spent last winter chasing that code , down I replaced the egr , the vacume solinoid, all vacume lines. and after all theat , i sent to a place i know , he tracked it down to my exhuast . It flowed to well, There are two types of egr valves that where used in with speed desinty cars , a positive and a negative egr valve, I have a negative preasure valve which works off the back presure from the exhuast. I had the same problem you did , wouldny come on all the time , but it would , i had my flow master on for a year before i got the code . so after my mechanic traced down to my exhuast , i bought a 20 dollar muffler from autozone , havent had a problem in a year , I would garantee that is your problem.