Ive seen my truck go back and forth between 50 and 950, and it's running really well.
But I decided to get some data from the car for the first time. Attached is a screenshot of the last 20 seconds or so of the quick drive. An idle, quick rev, then idle. The O2 hangs in between 500-600 and idle has become more and more shaky here recently.

On the road there's no issue. Also in the spreadsheet you'll see the knock counter get up there. 12 I believe. I checked timing when I got back and it was 2 degrees advanced from spec so that's fixed.

I ran a smoke test and found no vacuum leaks. It takes a couple of seconds to start up, which I will film tomorrow when it's cold. Someone is borrowing my fuel pressure gauge so i cant test that right now. Everyone talks about how the injectors get clogged after all of these years, I can look at that if thats relevant, even though the motor has only 85k on it.

So throw out any more ideas. Especially if you see anything disturbing in that spreadsheet. The knocking I don't care for.

 

Maybe 2 second cold hard starts are normal, im not sure.

 

O2 signal in your csv file doesn't look healthy. Compare the signal when you are idling versus driving. When you idle, it almost looks like it is losing heat. Do you have headers? I've seen that with headers. Less exhaust flow and the sensor cools down.

Also, your BLM is pretty much pegged at 108. Something is up there too. Is this a modified vehicle?

Lastly, is the exhaust good and sealed? No leaks at the engine flange or collector flange?

 

Yes I noticed the O2 is flat at idle as well. But then again these sensors are not heated correct? So maybe this is normal.
I dont have headers, the car is 99% stock.
There are a few holes in the pipe before the muffler. But no issues before the cats.

 

I dont think Im even getting into closed loop. Or if I am, when I get back to idle, I am going back open.
I cant go drive it again this weekend - Im working on the truck and some other things, but here is some data from another idle. In the malf dump, the closed loop flag is never set.

 

The factory O2 is out and AFS74 installed, not wired up permanently, but looking for a place to hook it up to. I wanted to measure draw first. I put an amp clamp on it and see that its only taking in about .5 amps. Is that normal for that O2? That seems a little low.

 

Thats a normal draw for the heating element. You can tap the power onto your fuel pump relay ( pump power).

 

Other people on the board had posted 2 amps, some people on other websites 10 amps... I suppose they were just guessing.

 

I’ve only felt with two ads-74 they bolts were in the same range as yours. I feel it’s such alittle draw tying it into the fuel pump wouldn’t do any harm. If you had a older tbi with a esc you could get acc power at the esc.

 

Oh yea way better. Its not flipping in and out of closed loop anymore. And you can see the fuel trims adjust as it goes.
Still, BLM is way down. It's at a solid 108, which if I remember the last time I was in tuner pro was the bottom setting from the factory? Maybe its just normal that motors do this. Id like to see someone else just reset their computer, run their unmodified vehicle in idle, warm it up, and check out their long term and see where it is.