KyleF

I am jumping out of my diary thread for this one. 88 5.7 with Vortech, Long Tubes, and what I believe toe be Bosch III yellow tops. Bought the car with a SES light on but running ok. Seems to have the same problem between 2 ECMs, appears to have new relays, and a new MAF. No obvioud Damage to wiring.

Now I have read a lot about the Code 36, but it is the only one I have coming on and my associated running problem is this: My idle is setting high right now cold. Around 1100 rpms and comes down to about 800-900 once warm. Noticeably high. I need to go back through the IAC and Idles set procedures which I intend to do soon. But with this, after the car gets warm it wants to die. IAC counts go from 20-30 up to 160 and it struggles to idle at 400RPM, tapping the gas pedal makes almost no difference. Once on the road it everything seems fine even taking off from a stop seems to only produce a slight if any hesitation.

It looks like all the threads I found on 36 is about just the SES light with no symptoms of poor idle. Any thoughts on what I should be looking at. I am all prepared to start probing wires and following the flow charts for the code, but I see no information in the threads about the poor running and I am really curious what the relationship is, not diagnosing the cause of the 36. Plenty of info on that by searching. Just can't find anything relating to my idle issues.

Thanks

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

KyleF

I plan on logging the data and see what I see. I will post it up on here. WINALDL. I agree could be two separate issues, but really surprised I am not getting two separate codes. It is very strange to have a TPI go from a steady (albeit high) idle to struggling to stay running and not get a code for something.

KyleF

Swapped the MAF burn off relay last night just to make sure... after clearing the computer, 36 still came back.

However, I performed the IAC reset and adjusted my throttle screw and then the TPS. Idle came in very nicely. So, indeed it would appear to be separate issues.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

You say the MAF was replaced - some of the replacement MAF's out there don't support the burn-off feature. If that's the case you may have to either tune it out or find a MAF that supports this, etc. MAF burn-off hasn't been done for many years now - this isn't a feature that's needed with the newer style units and proper air filtration so if you have a hot-film MAF and it works to your satisfaction then I would just tune out the 36 code.

GD

KyleF

GD, from my readings your are correct. I do have a hot film style. However in one of these threads, I thought I read that this style had a circuit to spoof the burn off function and return a signal to the ECM.

It's time to start probing so, if the signal is not returning to the ECM and the Voltage is going to the MAF I will have to make a decision to tune out or get a MAF that has the proper design. I actually showed this to the counter person at O'Reilly's as I was investigating where I could purchase an OEM style wire filament MAF.

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Well there is the blower works MAF:

http://www.blowerworks.net/sensor.html

This is just a PMAS HPX MAF in a 3" housing. With modified $6E it will support up to 500 grams/sec which is around 600 HP. You need the modified Blowerworks bin file to do this but I'm sure it can be procured one way or another.

GD

firefox7518

I'm interessted to tune it out? How can I do that? I'm using the Ostrich from Moates but I can't find the settings for the MAF burn off stuff? Any Help?

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Try just disabling code 36.

GD

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

KyleF

Loose wire... thin film MAF does return voltage to the ECM, No more Code 36

Longshot08

Holy smoke KyleF. Thanks for the tip. I'm going to go deep diving on my wiring here to see if I can duplicate your success. I've have a hotfilm as well with the dreaded code 36...

KyleF

If you see my other thread, the dreaded code 36 came back.

I did find a lose wire and an open fitting on the intake tube while troubleshooting this. Code 36 still came back later, went away, came back later. I have now installed a remanufactured Bosch unit that is the original wire filament style.

Code 36 has not came back since... but I am not fully ready to call it a success until a couple of months go by. The car doesn't get driven enough to go through the cycles.