Seems my dumba$$ engine builder left the cold start injector in the system................just has no power wires to it. I have a speed density system and therefore have no use for it............so there are two places I need to block off - the end of the fuel rail............with what, a pipe plug? What size? Then how to block if off where it enters the manifold.

Please help............am changing my injectors out and would like to remove the cold start from the system tomorrow when I finish the injector change but need to know HOW! Is there a block off plate? Or use JB Weld?

Thanks in advance.

 

Fill the manifold with silicone, that worked for me. It's not like it will ever be seen either. I haven't done anything with the injector.. it's just sitting there. Haven't looked into blocking it off yet.

 

I used 3 nickles and RTV when I had TPI. Even left Tom's head visable on purpose, looked kink of neat. Cost=15 cents.

 

Are you guys serious? No leaks?

 

Yup. No leaks.

 

I just left mine in at the moment.

Can I buy a fitting for the hole where the CSI line goes to the fuel rail so that I can hook up a Fuel Pressure sender for a gauge in the car? I'd like to keep the schrader valve free for a mechanical guage when working under the hood.

Oh, and will the pressures be different at the two locations?

 

Well, I enjoyed putting in new injectors so much, I did it twice...........unfortunately it was a completely novice mistake X2. First I cut an o-ring on one of the new Accel injectors because I didn't use Vaseline on the O-rings to lube them................I can't believe I didn't do this, I have been in injection molding machinery /molding for over 20 years and we ALWAYS use Parker O-Lube...........anyway, so I had a leak on one injector at the fuel rail............and A BIG leak at the CSI..............must have messed it up when I took it apart.

Called my engine builder, asked him first why I still have a CSI, he said he forgot to pull it out..........whatever. Gave me a couple of great suggestions..............first was to use a ball bearing and RTV and use the existing nut that the metal hose is secured with (*minus the tubing of course........lol*) with the ball bearing in the
'hole'. Second suggestion (the one I used) was to use a rubber gasket to seal off the hole..........worked PERFECTLY. I also just put the CSI back in with RTV............no leaks, no vacuum leaks either.

You guys know the trepidation you feel when you get this type of job done...............and the first time it leaked.............second time it didn't, then put the runners, etc. on, fired up after about 4 seconds of cranking and ran perfectly. Man it feels good to have that all done..............

BY the way, the intake bolts were about 20 lbs torque..............wow. Guess retorquing IS important...........but how the heck would you retorque on a TPI motor WITHOUT removing the runners?????? I'm gonna have to post about that...............

Thanks again for all the advice/help.

 

Hey John, not to be a smart ***, but George is on the quarter..... LOL

 

lmao

 

Duh, I knew that. OK you can see Tom's face, I left it like that and sold it. I wonder what the guy thought that bought it?

 

It will probably become one of those "you won't believe what the jerks at GM did when they built my car" story.

 

No such luck, my friend.

Only way to retorque all the intake bolts is to remove the runners again.

Maybe the builder didn't torque them well before?

I had about 30K miles on my engine since the last time I had the intake off and when I pulled it again, all the bolts were fine.

I had used the standard FelPro upper intake gasket set and torque the intake bolts to 35ft/lbs.

 

BlazinOr, A simple way to plug off the cold start injector is to take the fitting that screws into the fuel rail and hack saw it even with the nut. Then drill and tap it to 1/8 inch pipe . The same can be done to the runner end. Just cut the injector even with the plate that the screw goes through and tap it. After sawing you can file or sand the fuel rail plug and runner plate smooth. I polished mine to look good. No silicone just a no worry fix.

 

Excellent idea. Next time I have it open/apart for surgery I'll do that fix. Simple and effective..............good one.