https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=47454
This will explain most of it!


The other part is someone told me to change the maf burnoff module. I went and bought a maf burnoff module from a fellow member, and in a couple of days i will find out if thats the problem! I really don't know, mainly because when i got home i unplugged the old maf burnoff module and the car turned off! I pugged it back in and it stay's on?? Does that mean that its working?? I already bought a new mas air flow sensor!

 

85,

So we never heard... what error codes are you getting (if any)?

If you are getting a '34' or '36', you should be looking at the auxilliary MAF module (and apparently it's on the way). There are two relays and control logic in the burn off module. If the burn off cycle is not completed, the MAF may lose accuracy in measurement and report very low intake air data.

Don't take the new MAF out of the package just yet. You may be able to get a refund if you don't use it, but like most electrical parts, once they're installed, they're your's.

You should be able to hear the relays clicking as the ignition is turned off, initiating the burn off cycle. Once the auxilliary oil pressure switch has opened after oil pressure drops, teh burn off should commence. You can test for power on the 'D' terminal on either the MAF sensor itself or the 'D' terminal on the burn off control (at least they were consistent on that one). You should see a 5VDC or 12VDC signal at this terminal as soon as the oil pressure switch opens.

Waiting for results....

 

Thanks a bunch Vader, all i'm waiting on is the burnoff module. But in the mean time I will see if the relays turn on, if they do it's still good? Oh another thing the mouron that had my car before I did, somehow disconnected the check engine light or something, because i did the famous paper clip check and no yellow light! ( also know light when i turn the key)!

Thanks!

Will keep you posted!

 

85,

You can rig your own test light and ignore the MIL on the dash if someone has disabled it. Connect a small 12V lamp to a 12V + power source in the car. Connect the other lead to the 'D' terminal on the ALDL connector under the dash, adn it will act just like the MIL in the instrument cluster. That's exactly how the $30.00 plug-in code scanners operate.



Use your paper clip to enter the diagnostic mode and read the codes on your test lamp.

 

Thanks vader for the diagram! Okay still waiting for the new burnoff module, but I got a ? on the old module that i have still in the car, its makes a ticking noise like you said but only does it when it wants to! Is it suppose to make every time i turn the key?

Thanks,
85