need help on a t-5 fast!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 401
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From: MNT.Washington, KY
Car: 87 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5 3.42's
need help on a t-5 fast!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was going down the road and I shifted from first to second. And my car wouldnt accelerate. But first was fine. so I pulled over and my car would go into gear but it was real hard to move. And there was a wierd whisteling noise coming from the car, but when ever I would push down on the cluth pedal it would stop. And also the clutch pedal shakes real bad when ever I push on it. And it smells real bad.
Im pretty sure the clutch went out but can you guys help me. How much is a good clutch and what kind should i get?
Im pretty sure the clutch went out but can you guys help me. How much is a good clutch and what kind should i get?
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 5
From: Byhalia MS, just south of memphis
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 6.0 LS
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
i like the borg brute force clutch. its a lil better than the stocker. iv had 2 and happy with both.
IIRC i think its aroun $126. clutch pres plate and throw out bearing..
IIRC i think its aroun $126. clutch pres plate and throw out bearing..
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 401
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From: MNT.Washington, KY
Car: 87 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5 3.42's
Originally posted by 1991tealRSt-topGuy
the whistling noise was prolly your T.O. bearing
the whistling noise was prolly your T.O. bearing
Does that mean that I have to get a new through out bearing and pressure plate to?
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 5
From: Byhalia MS, just south of memphis
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 6.0 LS
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
if you get the borg brute force it comes with everything. clutch pressure plate and therow out bearing.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 401
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From: MNT.Washington, KY
Car: 87 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5 3.42's
Originally posted by bubbareno
ceterforce onley way to go
ceterforce onley way to go
But is it worth the $290 for a clutch made with kevlar that holds 30% better. Or just go with the cheaper one?
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 5
From: Byhalia MS, just south of memphis
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 6.0 LS
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
depends on how you are going to use your car. if you are driving daily then go with the borg.
if your going to be slamming gears at the track on a reg basis then get the centerfoce.
if your going to be slamming gears at the track on a reg basis then get the centerfoce.
Richard H has the right idea. It depends on how much you race it man. If you drive it everyday and occassionally race then go with the borg. If you drive it as a fair weather flier and like the accelerator alot then get a centerforce so you don't have to KEEP fixing it.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 401
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From: MNT.Washington, KY
Car: 87 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5 3.42's
Originally posted by xxwarrior36xx
Richard H has the right idea. It depends on how much you race it man. If you drive it everyday and occassionally race then go with the borg. If you drive it as a fair weather flier and like the accelerator alot then get a centerforce so you don't have to KEEP fixing it.
Richard H has the right idea. It depends on how much you race it man. If you drive it everyday and occassionally race then go with the borg. If you drive it as a fair weather flier and like the accelerator alot then get a centerforce so you don't have to KEEP fixing it.
I think Ill go with the centerforce because When I drive my car and come across a car that might actullay present a challenge I try to race. So I need something strong.
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,420
Likes: 5
From: Byhalia MS, just south of memphis
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 6.0 LS
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
save yourself the money and DIY. its not that big of a process. just dont do like a friend did and do the job from a set of ramps.
get that sucker up off the ground.
1 tranny tail mount,4 tranny to bell housing bolts, 5 or 7 bell to block bolts and its off. then its 6 flywheel bolts and te fly is off. send it to get turned by a reputable shop. that black 6 in long thing with a ring at the end is to go into the clutch while you lock down the presure plate.
after the pres plate is locked down bolt up the bell housing on the block, bolt the tranny bacl to the bell and the cross member and check it out.
i know i might have left a small detail or 2 out but thats a general idea.
get a friend that has been thu it before to help. and be sure to do it on a sat or something like that.
get that sucker up off the ground.
1 tranny tail mount,4 tranny to bell housing bolts, 5 or 7 bell to block bolts and its off. then its 6 flywheel bolts and te fly is off. send it to get turned by a reputable shop. that black 6 in long thing with a ring at the end is to go into the clutch while you lock down the presure plate.
after the pres plate is locked down bolt up the bell housing on the block, bolt the tranny bacl to the bell and the cross member and check it out.
i know i might have left a small detail or 2 out but thats a general idea.
get a friend that has been thu it before to help. and be sure to do it on a sat or something like that.
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 324
Likes: 1
From: Omaha, NE
Car: Vert IROC Camaro
Engine: 355ci
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/3.45s
I replaced my last 2 clutches with the car sitting on jackstands in my garage. It sucked a fatty but I got it done. I used the old trick where I got two 8" grade 8 bolts and cut the heads off. Slotted the head ends of the bolts so you can use a screwdriver to turn them in and out and then slide the tranny in on these bolts. Use 2 of the original bolts to hold the tranny in and then pull the "modified" bolts out and throw the next 2 original bolts in. Both times I swapped in new clutches I had to lay the tranny on my chest and press it up onto the two "modified" bolts. I don't have a tranny jack and I don't think it'd fit under my car when it's jacked up 12" in the air. Dropping the tranny sucks! Thank *** I don't have a 700R4 or I'd be *** out!
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 681
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From: Hamilton, NJ
Car: 88 Formula, 04 CTS-V, 06 Commander
Engine: 305 TBI, LS6, 4.7 V-8
Transmission: 5 spd, B&M Short Throw
Interesting method, Poppa ... might haveta try that one next time. I just put a Centerforce DF into my car. I know its overkill for my use, but I figured, why not. I plan on doing the mods that will require this clutch in the future.
When I did mine, I used a friends garage ... which had a Pit. I would definately suggest using a pit, or somehow getting your car up in the air. I could not imagine trying to do this job on jack stands.
All and all not that bad. It was about 5-7 hrs work, and I was learing the whole time. (got some other stuff taken care of while I had the pit too) I would definately DIY.
I paid 500 to get a stock clutch put into my old car. This time i upgraded to the Centerforce DF, did it myself, and still saved well over a hundred dollars.
KZad
When I did mine, I used a friends garage ... which had a Pit. I would definately suggest using a pit, or somehow getting your car up in the air. I could not imagine trying to do this job on jack stands.
All and all not that bad. It was about 5-7 hrs work, and I was learing the whole time. (got some other stuff taken care of while I had the pit too) I would definately DIY.
I paid 500 to get a stock clutch put into my old car. This time i upgraded to the Centerforce DF, did it myself, and still saved well over a hundred dollars.
KZad
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