if my clutch isn't disengaging, what should I check before I tear apart the trans.? the clutch works when the rpm's are below 1000 but only works intermittently above that. the slave cylinder is still moving an inch when the clutch pedal is pressed. what's the normal travel supposed to be?
please someone help!!! (it's a factory clutch and has 130K miles on it. what things do you have to replace around 130K miles)

Thanks,
mikez

 

If the slave cylinder is working fine, your clutch release springs are probably bent, weak, or maybe cracked. 130k means its probably about to go, most clutches last only about 100k. If you like to slam your clutch your best bet would be to get a high performance replacement, live from centerforce. they can handle the clutch pops alot better that stock.

 

I don't pop it hard but I'm the third owner so I'm sure somebody did. what's involved in taking the trans out on 88 IROC's? (just a general description I know there a ton of steps and I fear how much time a huge job like this will take)

mikez

 

its fairly easy: put the car up on jackstands. remove the driveshaft, trans mount, the clutch linkage. remove the shifter. remove the electrical connectors on the trans. put a floorjack under the trans. remove the bellhousing to block bolts and slide the trans back(i believe it can be just slid back to access the clutch) if not just take it down and put aside. once the clutch is in view, just remove the bolts around the clutch case and take it down. now you MUST take the flywheel out to be resurfaced, usually any part stores will do it for a small charge. New clutches sometimes come with an alignment tool, if not , invest $2.00 in one, your gonna need. its hard to align a clutch by eye, especially while on your back. now torque the flywheel and then the clutch i don tknow the exact specs but maybe someone else can post it if they read this. now just do the procedure in reverse. piece of cake