Hi,
C`mon people, tell me what is wrong with my box.
See my enquiry about the TTC just a few ads back !!!!!!!

 

Now you want the truth?
You're in another country, you can't remove the pan to check anything. What the hell do you expect? You want to buy a magic wand or something.
Here's some advice for the next time you take it to the transmission shop, on the 400 mile drive back
pay attention . Maybe check for this while you're within say 50 miles of the shop.
Use a little common sense.

 

Try this, I found it on a search, didn't read it all.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../aa061701e.htm

 

I went thru some minor wiring woes when I installed a 7004r into my car. Do a search on this site. You'll find something.
If my memory serves me right,

one wire has 12 volts via the "normally closed" brake switch,

one wire gets a ground from the computer to complete the circuit thru the solenoid, and engage the converter clutch

and the 3rd wire either gets a ground or loses a ground (not sure which) when tyranny shifts into 4th.

 

THE BOX WAS REMOVED FROM THE CAR AND SHIPPED TO THE REBUILDERS, REBUILT AND THEN SHIPPED BACK. I FITTED THE BOX YESTERDAY AND FOUND THE PROBLEM WITHIN A MILE OF DRIVING IT.
I DIDNT DRIVE IT 400 MILES AND THEN NOTICE IT. IT IS ALSO A HOLIDAY WEEKEND HERE SO EVERYTHING IS SHUT TILL TUESDAY OR WEDNESDAY, THATS WHY I ASKED FOR HELP TO SEE IF IT MIGHT BE A COMMON PROBLEM OVER THERE. BEAR IN MIND THAT THESE CARS ARE KINDA UNUSUAL OVER HERE IN SCOTLAND.

 

Sorry for such a rude response.
There is a very limited amount of troubleshooting that can be done without taking the pan off. I my opinion the first place to start would be the wiring and switches inside the pan.
For what it's worth I had an '84 that wouldn't lock up after a (shop) rebuild, there was a little black box mounted on the firewall passenger side with a vacuum hose to it, the wiring was unplugged so I hooked the wire back to it and it locked up normally after that. It could be a lot of things.
By the way...how would they know if you removed the pan? The easiest checks are in there.

 

First of all, thanx for the help and suggestions you advised.
Its not easy trying to keep your cool after paying £611 for a rebuild, which comes to roughly $1,000 AND THEN FITTING IT AND IT STILL DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY.

I should have stated that I removed the box 1st.
All I was trying to establish was if this was a simple fault that could have been cured without a lot of grief, or if it was something more serious. Tomorrow I will contact the rebuilder and ask what the problem is.
He may say that if I take the pan off it, then the guarantee is void. He may insist that I take it back out and send it to him for a diagnosis.
I carried out a load of checks today and it is pointing to the solenoid at fault. Dont really want to spend every weekend taking out the box, not at my age !!!!
We will see tomorrow.

 

It may be possible that the lock-up harness in the transmission pan is not pluged up the case connector, or was not fully seated when the builder connected it and it popped loose. It is an easy thing to forget to do or miss when building the transmission. The only thing the plug is for is lock-up, and would not effect the transmission adversly in any way accept for TC lock-up. I think if you did a continuity check on the pins in the case connector you should find something like 30 Ohms or so for the TCC solenoid. (or some reading anyway) If everthing is dead, then likely the case plug inside is disconnected.

 

Just a thought on how to do the Ohms check (scuse me if you know this already)
The wireing in the transmission to the TCC solenoid has a hot wire straight to the solenoid. The the ground wire runs through one or more presure swiches to induce lock-up in 3rd or 2nd.
Attatch one lead of your meter to case ground then probe the pins in the case connector. You should find one of them to be the direct wire to the TCC solenoid. That should give you an Ohm reading. If there is nothing then you have 2 choices. Drop the pan to inspect the TCC harness and solenoid, or take it back to the rebuilder.