What are the symptoms of overtightning the tv cable,and what for undertightening it?
How can I tell it's correctly adjusted?
BTW, I adjusted it the way it's explained in the tech- article on this site!
Thanks from The Netherlands (where owning and caring for these cars is like being in the middle of a great,big lonely dessert....)

 

that method usually doesnt work right. The way to adjust it (transfixleos method) that works the best is to open the throttle blade(s) up as far as they go (WOT) and while their open, push the metal tang (the adjuster tab thingy) and firmly press the plastic slider back toward the firewall to tighten the tv cable. The trans and throttle are now sycronized w/ eachother

 

This evening I went for the Transfixleo way!
I had my wife floor the throttle and I pulled the cable as firm as possible back,and released the "D-thing".
But after releasing the throttle and flooring it again,the tv cable came one more "click" back

I still like to know the symptoms of (not) correct adjusting this tv cable.
As I mentioned above it is now one "click"more loose!

 

or this....
GM 700R4 Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment
1. Remove air cleaner on vehicles with carb or TBI.

2. Depress lock tab down on TV cable and push cable all the way forward towards carb or injector.

3. Have someone sit in vehicle and depress gas pedal to the floor so it's at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Hold it there for steps 4 and 5.

4. Now check to make sure the carb arm is bottomed out or has no more movement. If not, use a pair of Channel Locks to bend TV cable bracket until carb or injector arm no longer rotates.

5. Next, depress lock tap down and pull TV cable back (Pull HARD!) towards firewall or away from carb or injector until it stops and then release the tab.

6. Use a pocket knife or hacksaw blade to mark the cable in front of the snout. This is MAX TV.

7. After marking Max. TV depress lock tab and push cable forward toward carb or injector 1/8'' of an inch. Make a mark in front of snout. This is Minimum TV.

8. Set cable back to Max. TV and Road Test.





Road Test: Super Important
First thing to check on road test is for Detent. Here's how- Make a very light throttle or minimum throttle 1-2 upshift. As soon as it shifts, floor the throttle. The transmission MUST shift back to 1st gear. If it doesn't you need more T.V.

Note
Most Diesels and V8's will work best at Max. TV to 2 clicks away. 4 cyl and V6's will work best at 2 to 4 clicks away from Max.

 

I've read through both methods a couple of times, and I think I get the basic gist. I need more help than this though. It seems the previous owner mangled my tv cable. Instead of being mounted properly on the carb arm, the cable is attached by a piece of wire wrapped around it and threaded through the throttle return spring. Can anyone post pictures of what a tv cable is SUPPOSED to look like on a carb? Mine is the "LM1" motor, 350, quadrajet, 700r4 (Caprice). I think it should be similar to the L69 or Lg4?
Thanks,
Homer

---
1988 Caprice
350
Quadrajet
700r4

 

Too tight of a cable will increase line pressure and hold onto the gears longer. Too loose of a cable is the opposite. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but having it loose is worse then tight. When to loose the TQ slips more generating more heat and wear.

At part or light throttle your 1st gear should shift from 15-20mph. Another way is when the tranny shifts into 2nd, stab the pedal and it should kickdown into 1st.

 

Yeah, I tried that, and it didn't kick down.

It seems to me like 20mph is a bit high to shift to second if the throttle is light. But what's wierd is it's a hard shift. Isn't it only supposed to shift hard when you lean on the gas?

My big problem though is I don't know where on the carb the tv cable is supposed to be mounted. That's why I really could use a picture. Having the slider positioned properly with the tab probably won't do much good without the cable correctly mounted to the carb throttle arm.
Any help?

 

Well, here's what I did. I took a screw and screwed it into the hole on the carb arm where the throttle return springs connect. I then connected the detent cable to that. Push in the tab, push the slider towards the firewall. There's no more slack available in the cable when the throttle goes to WOT. The throttle springs hold the screw in pretty good, so I doubt it will unscrew itself with time. I'm going to try to find a nut for it just in case.

Man, what a difference a detent makes! At WOT, I must have TWICE the RPM available before upshifting. Upshifting now feels like a punch in the back as a opposed to someone mashing the brakes.

Thanks for the help guys!
Homer

P.S. By the way, please tell me if I did something catastrophic to my car that will break my trans.