Anyone got first hand experience at the swap? If so any odd problems?
Bob

 

yeah it wont work right unless you spend at least $1000 on hydroulic clutch setup parts. the stock Z-bar / bellhousing setup will NOT work because of the "odd" 90 degree angles a T-10 sits at. You will need to invest money in a hydroulic slave cylinder / throwout bearing / braided lines / special clutch pedal / etc...

and they dont make a "kit" for it either, you gota piece it together. I spent $1200.00 getting my T-10 to work, then it blew up. I replaced it with a Muncie, and had clutch problems so i gave up and put in a Th350 for $700 and sold my Muncie setup including everything for $1800.- more than payed for itself.

I did love my 4-speed but the auto is so much more reliable.

 

I put a T-10 in my 3rd gen and had no problems with it, except after a fun day of slamming gears it got stuck in reverse and when I put the LT1 in I had to use the bellhousing out of a 72 nova with a 327, other than that it has worked great (with manual clutch linkage) I just got it fixed 3 days ago and am waiting for it to quit raining everyday so I can get it back together as I have to do it on the ground and no longer have a garage

 

vortech

What drive shaft did you use? I am going with a 1350/3" shaft when I get finished but would like to use a stock shaft just to get it going and make sure everything is lined up.
Bob

 

I used the stock drive shaft from a 83 firebird V6 the only problem with that is I had to replace the u joints, not sure if they were just worn out or if they were weaker in the V6's, and while I am in the tranny section anyone have any ideas for getting my tranny (T-10) back in my car laying on the ground by my self? I was working on it today and dropped it on my hand twice! that doesnt feel very good so I need to come up with a new plan

oh and you may want to plan on getting a different shifter, I got a hurst comp + with the linkage and install kit after I broke my other one

 

I now have a metal ramp lift that gets the car up 30" and use a floor jack with adjustable fitting. In the old days the only way I could do it is to get the trans on my chest and then with both arms put it up. If you got to tired or couldn't get it up it wasn't too far to let down. A few times on cars without too much emission stuff, I have just pulled the motor and trans together. K now this doesn't help much but it is a bummer job by yourself.
Thanks for your drive shaft info. I will be using a hurst type shifter.

Bob

 

I am using a floor jack but cannot get under the tranny far enough to get it in, the torque arm doesnst help much it kinda gets in the way but I am putting polyurathane bushing on that also so I am just going to remove it (thats the only thing that doesnt have poly bushings)

anyway let me know how it goes, I have alot of info on third gen tranny and engine swaps as I wanted to know everything about the F-body before I did my swap

 

I would like to know some of your ways with your crossmember and such. Rather than take up space on the board, if you don't mind I will e-mail you directly with any questions I have.

Bob

 

I have no problem with E-mails as long as I dont get junk mail

 

hey guys i am looking into gettin a t-10 for my bird cause i have lik 620 miles on my new 350 and i can already tell the tranny is on its way out. i don;t have 1700 for a tremec or t-56 and i'd just rather have a 4-speed. so with wut i have now if i get a t-10 i will need, bellhouseing, clutch? or no, driveshaft or no,crossmember or no? and woudl it be easy to switch to mechanical clutch from hydralic? i have had the whole hydralic clutch system out and its real easy to get out so woudl i just run the new cable clutch stuff in and woudl it blot up? thanks guys. also wut should i expect to pay to swap over? thanks