Does anyone know how much power you can put to a 1le aluminum driveshaft before it will cave in? and what they cost from GM?

IM assuming they are a little bit cheaper than an aftermarket shaft, just dont know how strong they are....id appreciate any help

 

Can't even guess what power it would take to break one. I would not worry about it on a street driven car. Price of a new shaft is about $250 and the p/n is 10085375 from gmpartsdirect.

 

look on ebay, you can usally finde em for around $150

 

that sounds like it may be the winner....the car is street driven,

but it does see alot of track duty and will make some violent high RPM launches on slicks with lift bars.....thats the only concern i have about the strength.

383

 

well from what my driveline friend said, aluminum doesnt flex so its likely to bend during a hard launch. and a metal driveshaft flexes and is more stronger cuz the material its made of. well its up to you cuz i know i dont wanna see myself launched into the air. lol. oh wait i got loops. hehe

 

the alumnium driveshaft is stronger, lighter and better balanced than a steel one. it is made of thick wall tubing and is a much larger diameter than stock, which more than makes up for the diffrance in strenth between steel and alumnium and, if combined with the right gears and an alumnium flywheel you'll get a better launch(or more tirespin depending on how you drive) . Most aftermarket ones are the same quality as the stock alumnium ones. The ones on the 93-97(poss. later ones too) are the same legnth as the 82-92 execpt for the TH200C on early models.

 

Folowing are the Dr shaft diameters (OD):
1) 1LE Alum 2 3/4"
2) LT1 & LS1 Alum 3"
3) Stock steel 2 1/2"

 

Hmmm, i dont think i want the 1le one then if its only a 2-3/4" OD.....the lt1 and later 4th gen ones seem like a better idea. My best friend just did the clutch in his 98 SS, and the driveshaft was out obviously. it looked to be a pretty stout piece and rivaled some aftermarket ones ive seen in workmanship.

anyone know if theres a rating on these things?

 

My stock steel DS most certainly was NOT 3" in diameter. I believe it is 2.5". I replaced it with a 1LE and the 1LE is definitely bigger.

Also, I believe LT1s got the 1LE shaft (2.75"), and not the 3" shaft that the LS1s got--but I don't have an LT1 car handy to verify.

 

I dunno bout that...ive asked my friend Steve who works at Southbay Driveline. He builds driveshafts. Steel vs. Aluminum, steel will always be stronger being size for size. Ask Steve Spohn too, I dont think imma be running 10s with an aluminum driveshaft with or without loops.

 

steel for same THICKNESS and DIAMEATER as alumnium is stronger, but alumnium driveshafts are allot thicker and larger in diameter than steel driveshafts, I know for a fact that the alumnium driveshaft is a larger diameter than steel because I had to get a new exauast th put mine in 'cause it hit the intrameadit pipe and there was about an inch of clearance with the steel one and the alumnium shaft was out of a 88 T/A. pound for pound alumnium is stronger than steel, but it is allot lighter (look at the perodic table) that's why aircraft are made of alumnium, including structural parts like finger braces (for everybody that dosen't work on F-16's 8 of them hold the wing and everything attached to it on, they look like a three fingered hand) one problem alummium has is that it dosent like oscilating loads (that's why alumnium rods have to be replaced so often) which is a problem with a driveshaft.(unless you put it in reverse to drive back and fourth allot)

 

Posted in error.

 

And I'm telling you that my stock driveshaft was NOT 3". I still have it, in fact, I will go measure it tonight.

 

"one problem alummium has is that it dosent like oscilating loads (that's why alumnium rods have to be replaced so often) which is a problem with a driveshaft.(unless you put it in reverse to drive back and fourth allot)"
Kinda true, but not really. Aluminum doesn't have a fatigue limit strenght like steel. So, what this means is that eventually aluminum will always fracture. But, as the amount of stress is decreased, the life of the part increases exponetially. reversing the loads (putting it in reverse) has no affect.

 

the stock steel driveshaft is absolutely not 3" OD. Im in the fence industry and i work with tubing all day long.....3" tubing is pretty good sized steel, and alot bigger than the stock shaft in my camaro. Which is very apparent when its next to my 3" exhaust tubing that runs beside it. The aluminum shafts out of the 4th gen is absolutely 3" if not slightly larger.

 

As I said earlier, I am uncertain as to the size of the 4th gen aluminum shafts... I was under the impression that LT1 cars got the 2.75" shaft just like thirdgens, and that only LS1 cars got the 3" shaft. But as I said, I only own an LS1, so I can only state as truth that my LS1 has a 3" shaft.

As I said earlier, MY 3rdgen aluminum shaft is 2.75" and my stock DS was smaller than that. In fact, the stock steel DS is exaclty the same diameter as the one on my G-body, which is supposed to be 2.5" diameter.

 

yup

 

:hail: :hail:
I have to admit a Big Error in my information on the Diameter of the stock steel dr shaft. Just rechecked my old steel shaft and it seems that I was incorrect to its size. My error.

 

you are forgiven

 

steel will always be stronger and cheaper. nuf said.

 

FYI:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6767