Tranny not shifting right...PROM issue or TV issue...see video inside
Tranny not shifting right...PROM issue or TV issue...see video inside
My transmission is not shifting properly. Between 1st and 2nd it revs high, then slides into 2nd. After that the shifts are not firm. I have adjusted the TV cable several times. I'm still working on my PROM, but I'm concerned about this. Is there something that needs changed in the PROM to improve my shifts? The transmission was just professionally rebuilt with stronger internals and a vette servo. Also, the vehicle is all wheel drive.
Here's the video: http://www.s10wildside.com/movies/ontheroad01.wmv
The video starts just after I step on the gas...so it starts in 1st gear.
Any thoughts?
Here's the video: http://www.s10wildside.com/movies/ontheroad01.wmv
The video starts just after I step on the gas...so it starts in 1st gear.
Any thoughts?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,612
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From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
Other than the TCC lock up, the ECM does not have any other control over the transmission. Check the fluid levels and the TV cable again.
Thanks for the reply....I'm adding more fluid to see if that solves the problem. Trouble is (with the Lokar tranny dipstick), it's impossible to tell how full the tranny is just after you pour fluid down the tube. The teflon dipstick also doesn't help much...the metal dipstick is better...but wouldn't fit in my S-10.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 1
From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Re: Tranny not shifting right...PROM issue or TV issue...see video inside
Originally posted by S10Wildside
The transmission was just professionally rebuilt with stronger internals and a vette servo. Also, the vehicle is all wheel drive.
Any thoughts?
The transmission was just professionally rebuilt with stronger internals and a vette servo. Also, the vehicle is all wheel drive.
Any thoughts?
The professionals need to redo their work.
Running a 700 with the cable misadjusted will quickly cause that, FWIW.
Be sure to flush out the tranny cooler lines. Running a 1/4" braided steel cable like they use for garage doors is a great way to make sure the line is open.
The tranny was installed by me, but rebuilt by someone who has been doing 700s for years. I'm still adding fluid as I think maybe I don't have enough in there. Like I said, that teflon dipstick is difficult to read.
Also, I replaced the lines with new ones...so they're clean.
Thank for the reply. Hopefully it's just a fluid problem b/c I've already adjusted the cable.
Also, I replaced the lines with new ones...so they're clean.
Thank for the reply. Hopefully it's just a fluid problem b/c I've already adjusted the cable.
What happens if you overfill a 700R4? I think I may have because I'm now leaking tranny fluid from somewhere below. I really hate that Lokar dipstick.
Here's the result: http://www.s10wildside.com/movies/trannyleak.mpg
The smoke is because I have fluid on my exhaust pipe. I'm not sure where the fluid is coming out...it's either at the dipstick in the base of the tranny or out the top vent. Can I cause damage to my transmission because of too much fluid?
Here's the result: http://www.s10wildside.com/movies/trannyleak.mpg
The smoke is because I have fluid on my exhaust pipe. I'm not sure where the fluid is coming out...it's either at the dipstick in the base of the tranny or out the top vent. Can I cause damage to my transmission because of too much fluid?
Re: the dipstick. Drill some small holes in the bottom of the dipstick. About a third the width of the stick itself. I have about 4 on mine. Even if the tranny fluid doesn't stick since it is teflon, the tranny fluid will fill up the holes and the surface tension will keep it in place til you have a chance to read it.
Re: overfilling. If you overfill, the fluid will start to foam up. When the fluid foams up, it will usually start to overheat stuff. An overfilled tranny can sometimes be just as bad as an underfilled tranny.
Re: overfilling. If you overfill, the fluid will start to foam up. When the fluid foams up, it will usually start to overheat stuff. An overfilled tranny can sometimes be just as bad as an underfilled tranny.
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Thanks for the advice. I really don't think I damaged anything as I only drove less about 1 mile with it overfilled. I'm now really glad I installed a drain plug in the oil pan!
So even as I gradually added fluid to the tranny it never did start shifting quite right. Any other suggestions about that TV cable? Obviously the fluid level was at one point correct.
So even as I gradually added fluid to the tranny it never did start shifting quite right. Any other suggestions about that TV cable? Obviously the fluid level was at one point correct.
I'm going to try one more thing before I take it to that shop. The motor is not putting out the power it should. It's not even revving to 4000 at WOT. It has been explained to me rpms play a role in the shifts...centrifical force has something to do with the shifts. Well, my dad had problems years ago with his 2.8L S-10 where the motor wasn't running right and the tranny was shifting all over the place. When he got the motor running right, the tranny shifted fine.
I'm taking an educated guess that my fuel injectors are not adequate for the motor. I've got a set of 30# injectors on the way and I'll put them in this weekend to see if that does anything significant to the motor....and hopefully straighten out my shifting problem.
The tranny not shifting right is one thing, but not being able to rev high at WOT is something entirely different.
If that doesn't work, I'll be taking the truck to the guy who built the tranny.
I'm taking an educated guess that my fuel injectors are not adequate for the motor. I've got a set of 30# injectors on the way and I'll put them in this weekend to see if that does anything significant to the motor....and hopefully straighten out my shifting problem.
The tranny not shifting right is one thing, but not being able to rev high at WOT is something entirely different.
If that doesn't work, I'll be taking the truck to the guy who built the tranny.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 708
Likes: 0
From: RI
Car: 93 Caprice 9C1
Engine: L05
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by S10Wildside
Well, my dad had problems years ago with his 2.8L S-10 where the motor wasn't running right and the tranny was shifting all over the place. When he got the motor running right, the tranny shifted fine.
The tranny not shifting right is one thing, but not being able to rev high at WOT is something entirely different.
If that doesn't work, I'll be taking the truck to the guy who built the tranny.
Well, my dad had problems years ago with his 2.8L S-10 where the motor wasn't running right and the tranny was shifting all over the place. When he got the motor running right, the tranny shifted fine.
The tranny not shifting right is one thing, but not being able to rev high at WOT is something entirely different.
If that doesn't work, I'll be taking the truck to the guy who built the tranny.
I suggest you adjust your TV cable several clicks toward the firewall. Keep adjusting until the 1-2 shift is better, or your WOT shift point is where it should be. If this doesn't work, then, yeah, go back to the builder...
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,612
Likes: 0
From: the garage
Car: 84 SVO
Engine: Volvo headed 2.3T
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 8.8" 3.73
Originally posted by S10Wildside
I'm going to try one more thing before I take it to that shop. The motor is not putting out the power it should. It's not even revving to 4000 at WOT. It has been explained to me rpms play a role in the shifts...centrifical force has something to do with the shifts. Well, my dad had problems years ago with his 2.8L S-10 where the motor wasn't running right and the tranny was shifting all over the place. When he got the motor running right, the tranny shifted fine.
< It sounds like you have more than one issue here. Need to start writing done all changes that you have done since it was last running.
Once you have the list, go back thru everything and double check your work. Sort it out one thing at a time.
I'm taking an educated guess that my fuel injectors are not adequate for the motor. I've got a set of 30# injectors on the way and I'll put them in this weekend to see if that does anything significant to the motor....and hopefully straighten out my shifting problem.
< 30's are a bit large for your 355. Are you sure that your out of fuel? Do you have a WB sensor?
The tranny not shifting right is one thing, but not being able to rev high at WOT is something entirely different.
< Lots of things can cause this.. fuel, timing,both phyisical and code, weak valve springs, plugged exhaust.. etc.
If that doesn't work, I'll be taking the truck to the guy who built the tranny.
< Probibaly wouldn't hurt.
I'm going to try one more thing before I take it to that shop. The motor is not putting out the power it should. It's not even revving to 4000 at WOT. It has been explained to me rpms play a role in the shifts...centrifical force has something to do with the shifts. Well, my dad had problems years ago with his 2.8L S-10 where the motor wasn't running right and the tranny was shifting all over the place. When he got the motor running right, the tranny shifted fine.
< It sounds like you have more than one issue here. Need to start writing done all changes that you have done since it was last running.
Once you have the list, go back thru everything and double check your work. Sort it out one thing at a time.
I'm taking an educated guess that my fuel injectors are not adequate for the motor. I've got a set of 30# injectors on the way and I'll put them in this weekend to see if that does anything significant to the motor....and hopefully straighten out my shifting problem.
< 30's are a bit large for your 355. Are you sure that your out of fuel? Do you have a WB sensor?
The tranny not shifting right is one thing, but not being able to rev high at WOT is something entirely different.
< Lots of things can cause this.. fuel, timing,both phyisical and code, weak valve springs, plugged exhaust.. etc.
If that doesn't work, I'll be taking the truck to the guy who built the tranny.
< Probibaly wouldn't hurt.
Thanks guys for the suggestions and advice. I will be installing a new set Ford 24# of injectors this weekend to see if that has anything to do with the power loss. The springs are "Grand National" valve springs and are an upgrade from the LT4 HOT cam kit springs.
As for the transmission, I'll drain some fluid and get the level correct. I'll play with the TV cable...I don't have a picture but the TV cable sticks out pretty far.
Have to wait until Friday to play with the vehicle.
Again, I really appreciate the help!
As for the transmission, I'll drain some fluid and get the level correct. I'll play with the TV cable...I don't have a picture but the TV cable sticks out pretty far.
Have to wait until Friday to play with the vehicle.
Again, I really appreciate the help!
Fixed the tranny problem...turns out that the adjustment was way off. I don't think it's possible to accurately adjust a LT1 TV cable with a 1987 style throttlebody. I pushed the cable in over 1/2" and it shifts much, much better.
After swapping in the 24# Ford injectors, the motor now pulls through the upper rpms.
Also, I got my interface cable working.
Tonight was a good night!
After swapping in the 24# Ford injectors, the motor now pulls through the upper rpms.
Also, I got my interface cable working.
Tonight was a good night!
its possiable for the engine to actually underev the input sprag. it will cuase strange shifting behavior if the engine begins to produce less power then the fee coasting inertia of the truck cuasing the sprag to freewheel. this will cuase s bizaare upshift into second.
A couple of things here. To check your fluid level, when a 700 is full, if you pull the TV cable loose from the tranny, the fluid should just dribble out of the hole in the case. If it pours out, let it leak until you have just a dribble left. If nothing comes out, add fluid until it starts to dribble. This will get you real close. Put the cable back in and the check the level with the stick and mark the stick as your new full mark.
Next to adjust the cable. Release the lock and pull the cable back towards the firewall. Have someone go in and push the gas pedal all the way to the floor then relock the cable and it is set.
Next to adjust the cable. Release the lock and pull the cable back towards the firewall. Have someone go in and push the gas pedal all the way to the floor then relock the cable and it is set.
Swapmaster - I like your suggestion about pulling the TV cable out of the tranny to determine the level of fluid. I just had the pan off yesterday and could see where the dipstick comes through and I agree that the fluid level is about full when it will just be coming out of the TV cable hole.
About the TV cable adjustment. I did use the method you described, but that doesn't work for my vehicle. I had used that method before I posted this question. Using that method actually pulls the cable out over 1/2" too far. I pushed the cable in toward the firewall several "clicks" and the tranny shifts fine. I have a brief explaination of why I think that method doesn't work for my vehicle a few posts above this one.
About the TV cable adjustment. I did use the method you described, but that doesn't work for my vehicle. I had used that method before I posted this question. Using that method actually pulls the cable out over 1/2" too far. I pushed the cable in toward the firewall several "clicks" and the tranny shifts fine. I have a brief explaination of why I think that method doesn't work for my vehicle a few posts above this one.
Then the cable issue must just be "one of those things". Not a biggie, realy. The hookup on the TB is in the same position on all three types, 87, 90, 93 I think. Reset your fluid level using the TV cable hole a see what happens.
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