I think I did something wrong. I push the clutch in, put it in gear and the rear tires move. This is when its on jack stands. Can't get it into gear when its on the ground. What should I look for when I pull the tranny out?

Thanks.

 

throw out bearing not in correct location, or backwards

 

THANK YOU!!! Still have to drop the tranny, but at least I know what it is now. Thanks!

 

keep in mind that most of the time i'm a dumbass and that was just a WAG, but that's where i'd start

 

id have to be inclined to agree with that one bud lol



im havin the same problem actually lol....how about this for a wag...could air be in the system? mine wouldnt go into gear either, BUT if i put into gear before i started it, it wouldnt roll

 

no air. I bled the slave cylinder before I tried to put it in gear.

 

ok you never said you had the hydrolics open. it's hard to bleed, i use a phenoix v12. gm says to do gravity bleed but i never had any luck doing it that way

 

me niether. ive tried many times and gravity bleeding has never worked for me. they also say to leave the shipping strap on new slave cylinders, gravity bleed, push the pedal and the strap breaks leaving everything ready to go.

 

what a phenoix v12?

 

How can I find out which way its supposed to go on? My chiltons manual doesn't show a good picture.

 

Similar thing happened to me. What it was was the clutch cable was adjusted wrong. I am not sure if, or how you guys adjust the cables on your cars, but check that. Also makes sure the cable isnt stretched, or if it is not mounted on the frame it could just be moving the casing and not the cable inside the casing (I hope this isnt too complicated). I would say check this before you pull the tranny. Go from the easiest to fix, to the hardest and see what works.

Good luck.

 

These are real cars; they don't have cable clutches like some front-drive POS.

 

Haha yeah my front drive Mustang, but I am not talking about for shifting, Imean off the clutch pedal...!

 

Not that a Mustang is wrong-wheel-drive; just that its clutch system is like one.

 

Its a hydrolic clutch. Hence the "bleeding" process which we spoke of earlier. No cable to stretch, brake, tangle, etc.

 

Now I'm pissed. Spent all day pulling the tranny checking things out. The clutch fork wasn't mounted to the bell housing. Fixed that problem, but now it still doesn't shift.

When I'm looking at the slave cylinder from under the car it doesn't seem like it travels enough to do a damn thing. It only moves about an inch. What else is there that could be wrong? I'm about to get the damn thing towed to a shop.

 

The pedal still feels soft as well. Bleeding the line didn't help. I'm going to pick up another slave cylinder tomorrow.

 

ttt

 

The slave cylinder is only supposed to move .58", or just over ½ inch.

Pete

 

Do you think it could be the master cylinder? How can I tell which is bad?

 

Doesn't sound like the hydraulics.

1. They worked before you took the car apart. (Well, they did, right?)
2. You worked on the car.
3. The hydraulics still work right, but the rest of the car doesn't.

Conclusion: the hydraulics aren't the problem. Something else is improperly assembled.

"The simplest explanation that fits all the facts is usually the right one."
-Occam, ancient Greek philosopher, from back when all clutches were still mechanical

Study this pic carefully. How did you put the throwout bearing onto the fork? Like the upper half of the pic, or the lower half?

 

I'm pretty sure I did it like the top picture. But it looks a little different. The main forks (heavy steel) went around the smaller section of the throw out bearing. I put the lip part of the bearing inbetween the clutch fork and the little prongs. So the bearing is held by the prong up against the clutch fork.

Sorry if this is confusing. But I really appreciate the help. Thanks.

 

Then that's your problem. The bottom pic is the correct assembly.

The thinner, spring-steel part goes inside the groove of the throwout, since its purpose is to hold the clutch fork firmly against the business side of the groove. If they are clipped onto the outside of the bearing, then they will hold the fork some distance away from its operating position, and the hydraulics will self-adjust to that (erroneous) position; and more than half of the total available motion of the hydraulics will be taken up just moving the fork from one side of the groove to the other, before any useful work can get done. The whole thing will run out of its range of motion long before it can release the clutch.

Put that together right, and it might just work.

 

Damnit! I have to pull the tranny again. Oh well, practice makes perfect right. I know what I'll be doing this weekend.

Thanks for your help. You explain things in a way that my feeble mind can comprehend. I finaly be able to break in this new motor. 10's or bust.

 

sorry to bug you once more, but.....
the throw out bearing has a bump/bulge on one side of it. Does that face towards the fork or away from the fork? Or does it matter.

 

It shouldn't matter. It's only there to hold the center piece still. Whichever side it's on, it will run into the fork if it tries to spin. I usually put those toward the fork though.

 

damn! where were those pics when i needed them? now my whips in the shop, and i cant convince the mechanic that the throw out bearing is in wrong. im gonna have to find a ride out there to show him the pics. ill be damned if i pay him to put it back together wrong, even if he gets it to work like that. it did work like that before, i dont know how but it did. it just didnt work right. clunked when put in first grinded into reverse etc. but it was driveable.

 

Still having problems. Its better. But not much. Its very hard to get into gear. I'm not sure if the clutch is bad or not. I didn't think so. Looks like there's plenty of material left on the disc. If I pump the pedal a bunch of times I can force it into gear. Then while I'm driving I have to rev match it to down shift.

The pedal pressure is almost back to normal. I guess that's good. I'm pulling the tranny tomorrow to take a look at it. I'm going to snap a bunch of pictures and try to post them.

Any more ideas? Could you turn the flywheel so much as to cause the clutch not to engauge it? What about the pilot bearing? I have a roller in there now, and repacked it when I put it together. Do you think I damaged that?

 

i just got mine back too. still dont disengage all the way either. my mechanic said it was a possibility that the fly wheel had been machined down too far. however my mech is a tool! i know he didnt put the t.o.b. in right like i told him to. im pulling my tranny this sunday to put it in right. after that ill see his *** in court! so to answer your question yes, according my mech, it is possible. he says you can pull all the bolts out of the pressure plate and use special shims to bring it up closer to the disc... i dunno, seems logical, but i know thats not my prob. my prob is he is oldschool and doesnt wanna listen to anyone thats not a mech *** like him! will see come sun. when i correct his stupidity.

 

I don't know but that sounds like a hydraulic issue to me. I'd bleed some more.

My best luck w/bleeding clutch systems is to use a method called "Back Bleeding". Making sure the reservior is FULL, you press the clutch pedal about an inch. Just enough for the piston to pass the replenishing port. Some air bubbles will rise to the top of the reservoir. Release and repeat. Over and over until the air stops rising out of the cylinder, and throught he reservoir. Every several little pumps, give it a good pump all the way to the floor, and then resume with the little ones. Conitue until you can no longer get air out.

This method is used on dirtbikes, snowmobiles, etc. and it works really well on a "small" system. Give it a shot!

 

That is total B.S.
Your mechanic is full of it. Machining the flywheel won't affect the clutch operation w/our design.

Shims to pull "it up closer to the disk"?? What's your mechanicl talking about??

 

actually the shims dont go on the pressure plate, you remove the flywheel and the shim goes on the crank to bring the flywheel closer, then again i dont see how that'll work either, anyhow, a real mechanic would check the thickness to see if the flywheel is able to be turned.... i had the same problem with mine not releasing like your talking about, was my first clutch install and i bent the disc did you have trouble getting the tranny back into the bellhousing?

 

well me and a friend dropped the tranny yesterday and behold....crooked t.o.b! part of the collar was under a spring, part was over a spring! so i popped it on the way it is supposed to be and ill be damned it fuggin worked, imagine that! my clutch now dosent take hold till around halfway up when it used to take hold directly off the floor! now i gotta figure out how im gonna get at least some of my money back outta the dip**** mech. thanx RB83L69, if you hadnt posted those pics, my car would still be the same as it was when i bought it, a PITA to drive. the guy a bought it from is a tool also!

 

Well, that was easy! Cheap too. No shims, no ethnic-rigging, no voodoo or magic, just put it together right and it works. Amazing.

Glad the pics helped. It's hard to explain stuff like that in words sometimes.

 

lmfao, yeah!

 

should the TOB recenter itself on those fingers? or should i have it dead on the money or close to it before installing the transmission again?

 

can the clutch fork be removed without pulling the tranny? or atleast adjusted to the correct position?