I just did the manual swap this weekend and went to race at the track and I can't do the burnout at all!! With the auto I would just hold the brake and light em up but now I can't get the thing to burn with out launching or stalling out my car so I kept running without doing the burn out and I would peel EVERY gear for about 1-2 seconds when I would shift hard. Can someone help me and tell me the procedure for doing it. Thanks

 

Without a line lock you gotta do some heel toe action. You still clutch with your left foot. Now twist your right foot so that the heel will be on the brake pedal & your toe area can hit the gas. Kinda ackward but it works. So basically you are tapping the brakes & feathering the throttle at the same time as you dump the clutch pedal out. Good luck & go practice

 

Heel toe huh? Sounds like it should work but getting good at it will be tough. Is that the ONLY way to do it?

 

Yeah, it's kinda easier said than done. It takes a lot of practice to do it & I'm sure there are other methods to get your burnout done right, besides a line lock.
Just as a fun fact, this kinda footwork,(heel toe) is also used by some race car drivers on road courses when they have to down shift going downhill to slow down. Normally you get a jerky kinda motion when at speed, hit the brakes & then do a downshift to slow down. Heel toeing when downshifting downhill allows you to have a smooth transition between gears while braking & still have power to come out of the turn all at the same time & actually allowing you to come out ahead of the other car if done right.

 

Go out to a parking lot before you go race next time and just practice the heel/toe setup. I have also seen guys drop the clutch from like 4K and then slam on the brake w/ their left foot as soon as they release the clutch. Catch it quick enough and you will do a good burnout.

 

for drag racing burnouts, get a line lock... but do learn how to heel-toe.. its very useful..


when you're slowing down to a stop, if you know how to do it (and it becomes automatic after awhile) you can lightly apply the brake, and as you downshift, blip the throttle to match the rpms of the next downshift.
with a lil modulation of the brakes, you get a nice, smooth stop... and at any time you can roll on the throttle and go....


to be honest i didnt do that a whole lot on the street until i got my motorcycle... with a motorcycle, its easier, and you kinda have to do it... after i went back to driving cars, i just found myself doing ti one day... i like it.



athough i am a bit backwards... i put my toes/front of my foot on the brake, and my heel on the gas... unless im wearing boots.. then i do it with my foot inbetween the two and tip it sideways.


when im typing this it even sounds complicated to me.. lol, but its quite easy once you get used to doing it. its like riding a bike.. if i tell ya how to keep your balance, turn the bars, lean, and pedal, you would think its impossible... yet people do it all the time..

 

Thank's guys I'll go practice.

 

You just need to learn the basics first. Just rev it up to about 3000rpm and slowly let the clutch out. As soon as the car starts to lurch forward release the clutch and press the gas at the same time. You will break them loose and will stand still pretty much while you burn em' up. Just watch your RPMS so that you do not redline. I like to go about 3/4" throttle. You have a lot of power based on your sig so you should break them loose without much effort at all. Heel to toe action is hard for any f-body because of the locations of the two pedals. The brake pedal sticks out about 1.5" or more than the gas pedal. This puts your foot in an awkwards posistion and you do not give equal action to both pedals. Long and narrow feet also help. If both pedels were on the same horrizontal plane heel and toe would be cake. I pretty much cannot heel and toe either of my cars, T5 and T56 equiped.

 

poor t5 i hope its ready for death ive heard they wont take much burnout beating so i hope you have a spair t56 handy.

 

A burnout will not hurt a T5. You can spin your tires all day long and most street tires will never supply enough traction where the T5 would bust. Traction and hard luanches are the cause of death. High hp motors can also cause a T5 to die if they have traction while the motor is WOT and producing in excess of 350lb ft.

 

Burnouts will not hurt the T5....

It's HOOKING that hurts 'em..ask me how I know

I went 12.40's with a T5 before I sold the last project car I had, so if u have a good clutch and don't try to speed shift it you should be okay.

I've raced stick shift cars for years...without a line-lock ( worth every penny ) the best way I've found is like explained earlier...experiment and find what RPM you're car will start to turn the rear tires over, and just hold revs, ease clutch, gas then sidestep the clutch and give it gas.

A tip for launching it at the tree...

Find the LOWEST click on ur e brake which will actually HOLD the rear tires. Get staged, pull the e brake up, hold your launch RPM, drop the e brake on the last yellow. With practice, this netted me consistent .550-.650 RT's.