lately when i take off, and the car is 1st gear it pops out of gear and you get this loud clunk, sounds like its tearing the tranny out of the car. Also inorder to get it into reverse sometimes i have to put it into 1st move forward before itll go into reverse, anyone ever have problems like this or know what my problem might be.
Thanks

 

Popping out of gear is a sure sign that there is some for of synchro problem with the trans. It could be the syncho ring, the sliding sleeve, or even the gear (worn engagement teeth). Disassembly is the only sure way to find out. While you're in there you might as well rebuild it if your budget isn't terribly strained. Parts for the T5 are very reasonable.

You should always shift a T5 into 5th gear, adn then reverse, with your foot on the clutch the whole time obviously. This is the pattern required to get the non-synchronized reverse gear to align properly. This isn't a problem, just the way the trans is built.

 

I have the same first gear problem. It only stays in if i downshift to first while rolling to a stop.

 

mine has the same reverse problem, i noticed yours is also a '92. I would have figured those years would have been synchronized. any other car I have driven would not have allowed you to shift from 5 to R, so I never thought of that, i just use 1 to R and roll it a little in 1

 

the 5th to reverse trick almost always works for me, but sometimes it dont and ive gotta roll it forward in order to get it into reverse. Im not experineced at all with tranny work, how hard would it be to figure out what is wrong with it, or should i just take it to a shop
Thanks
Josh

 

had that problem in my z71 turned out the pilot bearing was worn, replaced it and never did it again.

 

It isn't hard to look at a trans part and tell if it is worn or not. If you want to open it up I'd advise you to get the tech book on the T5 from Hanlon Motorsports. It will walk you through teardown, inspection, and re-assembly.

The T5 isn't that tough to rebuild IMO. The 5th/reverse assembly is a little tricky to get right, and you need to be careful to align the shift lever on the rail right, but otherwise it's very straightforward. All the bearings are either caged needle or roller type (except for the input shaft ones, which are stacked rollers), so that part is simple if you have either brass punches or a press. It isn't like the old Muncies that had a hundred tiny needle bearings in the countershaft that required you to use a dummy shaft and stack everything up and then drive the new shaft through the countergear to push the dummy shaft out, while supporting the bearings.

 

TKO what about shims and so on that iv often heard about to make a rebuild of a T-5 correct? or is it pretty much a put the parts in the correct place kinda deal?

 

i've rebuilt my t5 a couple of times.....it's not really that hard to do.....i ordered my parts from national drivetrain out of atlanta and nevada..........the only problem i had was i kept destrying 3rd gear...more less stripping 3rd off the cluster and 3rd itself........that was after i got the clutch problem solved..kept exploding clutches in 3rd..........funny how that always happened when i pulled 3rd gear.....now i'm running an auto with a 3500stall

 

The only shim that you might find in a T5 is behind one of the countergear bearing races. I have always reused the stock shim, checked the endplay and found it to be right withing factory spec. That is the only shim procedure in a T5. T56s have 3 sperate ones and are a litte bit of a pain, because you need a special tool that has to be made on a lathe.

I have always used Timken bearings and never had a problem with any Borg/Warner or Tremec trans being out of spec when using the factory shims and new bearings.