Anyone have a p/n for a u-joint that lets me use my stock drive shaft w/ my 9"?

 

If you have a 1350 yoke on the 9 inch, I think a Precision #348 will work. I think NAPA uses the same #. BTW, this is a bastard u-joint and not very strong. Why not upgrade to a 1350 joint driveshaft?

 

The "bastard" u-joint is as strong as stock. I have broken everything else EXCEPT the u-joint (including grenading a 9" rear end that went as far as bending the axle housings).

 

i just broke that very joint. Damn thing pretty much exploded.

Denny's N20 shaft is on the way

Eric

 

Glad you had good luck with it! After the second "bastard" fragged and took out the pinion yoke, I up-graded to 3 1/2" aluminum shaft, billet yoke and 1350 SOLID u-joints. The 1350 up-grade is cheap insurance, especially for people running T5 & T56 trannys.

 

Are you sure the stock driveshaft is long enough? Mine needed to be 2" longer, so I had a driveline shop make me a 3.5" steel one with 1330 joints was about $265 2 years ago.

 

The stock driveshaft should be long enough, provided the 9" rear is mounted correctly. I suppose I could be wrong on the 3rd gens as I haven't done one yet, I have only done 1st and 2nd.

Maybe I'm lucky on the bastard u-joints, but I've never broken one. I have grenaded transmissions, ripped the tailshafts off, ripped the trans from the engine, blown rear ends and axles and twisted driveshafts...but I haven't broke a u-joint yet. Knock on wood (or maybe I should pray they break, much cheaper than the other stuff)!

 

So with a 700R4 and 9" rear, the driveshaft needs to be 2" longer.
With my set-up, T56 and Dana 44 the driveshaft needed to be 1.25" inches shorter. Interesting. Probably with the 9" low pinion mount it is shorter in length.

 

When I had a 700R4 and a ford 9" (MOSER) the stock driveshaft was the perfect size.... 2" longer would have shoved the shaft right though the tailhousing of the tranny when the suspension was compressed...

I did not need a longer one untill I switched to the TH400...

I also would not worry about basturd u-joints.... At least on mine(TPIS Shaft) I used a basturd one...The Bearing Caps were different and there was slightly less matl on the shaft side But hardly a cause for concern.... Under a supercharged car at the time I completely thatshed the TH400 But the u-joint still lives on in someone elses car...

 

Ok, still have a problem. It looks like I don't have a 1350 yoke. I bought a u joint for that yoke and it was too big. Any suggestions? How do I measure one of these so I can give the dimensions to the people over the phone? This is the only thing that's keeping my car from moving, and it's getting a little frustrating.

 

ford used 2 different ends.. both used 1330 series bearing caps...but one was wider than the other...wider one is preferred and more comon....

BUT anyway here is a webpage that helped me get the right joints for my original setup....I used the specs on the page to measure the shaft and yoke and then called them...

http://www.rockforddriveline.com/universaljoints.htm

You may have to look around the site to find all of the specs but its all there...if not call them..This page link is to pick the style ends you need...they have seperate pages for conversion joints etc etc...But this gets you started on dimensions...

 

sorry to jump in on this post but seems like you guys were talking about what i need help in. I have a built 700r4 just installed and also a moser 9'' rear with detriot locker 4.11 gears. My question is i have the stock driveshaft but my car shakes alot like after 45-55 and off gas it shakes bad. I was wondering if the length of the shaft is to long or short.

 

The correct 1350 conversion u joint is Precision 447. I JUST installed one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCN-447/





I have the same basic rear you have except mine is a currie housing, Strange center and 4.57 gears. I LITERALLY finished it last night and am noticing a vibration around 55mph like you. I'm ordering a shaft from Strange and hoping it'll fix it.