i recently did an auto to manual swap and have since blown up two slave cylinders. I finally figured out that the slave cylinder piston does not travel far enough to disengage the transmission. Has anybody run into this, and how did you fix this?

i got the shatterproof lakewood bellhousing, centerforce dual friction clutch kit, throw out bearing and flywheel, stock replacement fork and master/slave cylinders, and rebuilt t5.

thanks.

 

If the new bellhousing is thicker (trans case face-to-engine mounting surface distance) than the stock one a change is in order. Evidently something is thicker or shorter or not adjusted if you are blowing up slave cylinders.

I'd check the distance from the cylinder mounting pad to the fork. (Stock versus current setup).

I don't know if it is possible to lengthen the rod (for the slave cylinder).

Or, maybe your adjustable pivot ball is not adjusted correctly?

Can't think of anything else right off. Are all the parts designed for your particular setup?

S-D

 

i called the centerforce people thinking i had gotten the wrong throw out bearing. they mentioned the pivot ball i got, even though adjustable, is too short and should get the one from GM, #3790556, as it is longer. I have ordered one and will post results.

 

I am VERY interested to know how this turns out for you...I am having the same disengagement problem with my auto-to-manual swap with Centerforce DF clutch and correct GM master/slave on the stock bellhousing.

Please post your findings

 

sorry for the delay, the guy i had looking at it was in no hurry to get it done.

apparently, i didn't have the clutch fork aligned correctly. the GM ball stud would have made no difference. after realigning the clutch fork, reinstalling the slave cylinder and bleeding it, it all works great now.

good times.

 

That's cool- As long as the solution is found and posted- that kind of stuff can really help out if someone has similar troubles in the future-
Was the fork not seated properly on the ball or something?
S-D

 

I just went through a 3 day battle with the same problem, the slave wouldnt travel far enough, although it was the 0.58" factory spec. I think my fork is bent, i pulled the dust boot off the was able to see the fork and t/o bering were correctly installed. Eventually i solved the problem by using a balancer puller to force the clutch to engage and found i needed an extra 1/4" of travel so i stuck a 12mm socket on the inner end of the slave rod and rounded it off. Works great. Another solution would be to use a longer bolt with both ends rounded.