identifying marks on t56
identifying marks on t56
So I have a tranny sitting on my garage floor. Just picked it up today from UPS and realized that I didn't see too many of these (none till now).
It is supposed to be a T56 and it does have Borg Warner Automotive written on it, but it doesn't actually say anywhere that it is a T56. Are there any marks or numbers I can look for to verify what I actually have?
Also, didn't have much time to play with it, but is it supposed to shift freely sitting there on the floor? It seemed that it was a little rough, and I couldn't get into all gears. ( Anyone know the shift pattern on T56, I never even seen a six speed before)
It is supposed to be a T56 and it does have Borg Warner Automotive written on it, but it doesn't actually say anywhere that it is a T56. Are there any marks or numbers I can look for to verify what I actually have?
Also, didn't have much time to play with it, but is it supposed to shift freely sitting there on the floor? It seemed that it was a little rough, and I couldn't get into all gears. ( Anyone know the shift pattern on T56, I never even seen a six speed before)
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Shift pattern is just like a T5, except it has 6th where Reverse would be and Reverse is all the way to the right and up. You may not be able to get it into all the gears on the floor without rotating the output shaft. If the teeth just happen to line up the wrong way it won't go into gear. You'll have a LOT of trouble getting it into Rev. on the floor, as the reverse lockout solenoid is difficult to overcome when it's not energized.
Posting a pic would be the best way to get it identified, but if it has 8 bolts from the trans into the bellhousing it's almost certainly a T-56.
Posting a pic would be the best way to get it identified, but if it has 8 bolts from the trans into the bellhousing it's almost certainly a T-56.
Hey guys, thanks for the input. It is definitely NOT a T-5
Actually I think it is like the picture J posted. To be sure I'll post a picture tomorrow when I actually get into my garage. I spent most of the day today driving around the country looking for firewood (long story).
In the mean time, I have a question if anyone know good place that sells rebuild kits (preferably complete). I've seen this one on e-bay quite regularly, but no seems to ever buy it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
Is this too high of a price for a rebuild kit? It seems there is a lot in there, but I don't know if it would actually have everything I would need.
Actually I think it is like the picture J posted. To be sure I'll post a picture tomorrow when I actually get into my garage. I spent most of the day today driving around the country looking for firewood (long story).
In the mean time, I have a question if anyone know good place that sells rebuild kits (preferably complete). I've seen this one on e-bay quite regularly, but no seems to ever buy it:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...e=STRK:MEWA:IT
Is this too high of a price for a rebuild kit? It seems there is a lot in there, but I don't know if it would actually have everything I would need.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
It's got all the parts you need (except roll-pins which can usually be re-used anyway,) and the price isn't bad, but quality is a concern. I personally don't know anyone who has gotten this kit, and I don't like building my tranny with parts of unknown origin. For all I know, a 6-year-old in the middle east somewhere could have done the machine work on those bearing races.
You could contact the guy and see what brand bearings and such he uses. That might help you make a decision.
You could contact the guy and see what brand bearings and such he uses. That might help you make a decision.
Here's the link to my picture gallery:
http://dxm004.homeip.net/gallery/vie...mName=08-15-04 (It took me the last 3 days to set it up and I am very proud of myself
)
I compared it to what J posted and the only difference I saw was that I didn't have a speed sensor (unit itself) on it. But otherwise, looking good.
J, what is that shift skip unit? How does it affect things. I've never seen it before.
Yeah, I agree with you J, that if this is of questionable origin, I may want to steer away from that kit. Does anyone know of other (reputable) sources of these kits?
http://dxm004.homeip.net/gallery/vie...mName=08-15-04 (It took me the last 3 days to set it up and I am very proud of myself
)I compared it to what J posted and the only difference I saw was that I didn't have a speed sensor (unit itself) on it. But otherwise, looking good.
J, what is that shift skip unit? How does it affect things. I've never seen it before.
Yeah, I agree with you J, that if this is of questionable origin, I may want to steer away from that kit. Does anyone know of other (reputable) sources of these kits?
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,520
Likes: 91
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by jmd
the metal tag bolted down with a tailhousing bolt. Post all #'s off that.
the metal tag bolted down with a tailhousing bolt. Post all #'s off that.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yes that is a T-56. It's 94-up, since it has the "skip shift" solenoid (the one that screws into the case).
Best thing I can suggest, is to turn it up on end, and pop the extension housing off. You can see what kind of condition it's in inside. If the bearigns that you can see fromm there look to be in good shape, and there's no metal on the magnets in the bottom of the case, then I'd recommend leaving its innards alone.
Best thing I can suggest, is to turn it up on end, and pop the extension housing off. You can see what kind of condition it's in inside. If the bearigns that you can see fromm there look to be in good shape, and there's no metal on the magnets in the bottom of the case, then I'd recommend leaving its innards alone.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Skip-shift was something GM started doing in '94 on the 6-speed cars. If you're in first gear, accelerating, at less than 40% throttle (IIRC) it will lock 2nd and 3rd gears out and force you to shift from first directly to fourth. It's supposed to help fuel economy to make the EPA happy.
Just leave it disconnected.
Just leave it disconnected.
jmd, I am not sure what tailhousing bolt you are talking about. I haven't seen any tags held in place with a bolt, but I it looks like the tranny was positively identified. Unless you can get more info from those numbers?
RB, my master plan was to get and rebuild one of these. That's why I got one for $600. The guy said the only bad thing with it was that it was popping out of reverse. I figure now I have another 600 to make it whole again. The car I am working on is not a daily driver and I really don't have any time pressure. So I wanted to take my time, rebuild one of these and maybe learn something in the process. (plus the longer tranny takes me, the more capital I am going to have for the suspension
)
RB, my master plan was to get and rebuild one of these. That's why I got one for $600. The guy said the only bad thing with it was that it was popping out of reverse. I figure now I have another 600 to make it whole again. The car I am working on is not a daily driver and I really don't have any time pressure. So I wanted to take my time, rebuild one of these and maybe learn something in the process. (plus the longer tranny takes me, the more capital I am going to have for the suspension
) Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,520
Likes: 91
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by VILeninDM
jmd, I am not sure what tailhousing bolt you are talking about. I haven't seen any tags held in place with a bolt, but I it looks like the tranny was positively identified. Unless you can get more info from those numbers?
jmd, I am not sure what tailhousing bolt you are talking about. I haven't seen any tags held in place with a bolt, but I it looks like the tranny was positively identified. Unless you can get more info from those numbers?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
VIL...that's exactly what I did. I picked mine up for $500 because it wouldn't stay in 3rd and wouldn't go into 4th at all. I stuck a 3-4 shift fork and a set of shift fork pads in it and made it all better.
I didn't put bearings in it at the time because they all looked fine and the endplay checked perfect when I put it back together with the original shims. It's been 4 years now and one of the bearings is starting to whine a bit....looks like I'll be going back into it this winter.
I didn't put bearings in it at the time because they all looked fine and the endplay checked perfect when I put it back together with the original shims. It's been 4 years now and one of the bearings is starting to whine a bit....looks like I'll be going back into it this winter. J, I know that. You were the one who told me to look for things like popping out of x gear and that would be a cheap buy because most people don't want to deal with opening up the tranny. That's exactly what I did. Good call
The only thing that bugs me a little is that I still didn't get it to shift into all the gears (but I did manage to get into reverse and 3 others I think), and the guy never mentioned any shifting problems. Plus it seams when it is in neutral, the shifter is not in the middle, but all the way to the left. The again once I start the rebuilt, I am sure if something is indeed bad, it'll get fixed or replaced. The gears it did go into all rotated smoothly and with very little effort, so that should be a good sign.
Like the title of this topic says, I've never even seen a T56 before, but something tells me that in the next 8 months I will learn way more about manual trannys than I ever thought I would have to know.
The only thing that bugs me a little is that I still didn't get it to shift into all the gears (but I did manage to get into reverse and 3 others I think), and the guy never mentioned any shifting problems. Plus it seams when it is in neutral, the shifter is not in the middle, but all the way to the left. The again once I start the rebuilt, I am sure if something is indeed bad, it'll get fixed or replaced. The gears it did go into all rotated smoothly and with very little effort, so that should be a good sign.
Like the title of this topic says, I've never even seen a T56 before, but something tells me that in the next 8 months I will learn way more about manual trannys than I ever thought I would have to know.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
If you're enginerring-minded at all I think you'll be impressed with the way the T56 is put together inside. It's a very good design and I can see why they say it's seriously underrated at 450ftlb.
If you need any info when taking it apart/putting it back together shoot me a line. I may be able to dredge up some old knowledge from when I was in mine. Also, if you don't have the GM T56 manual yet lemme know....I'll email you the .pdf version.
If you need any info when taking it apart/putting it back together shoot me a line. I may be able to dredge up some old knowledge from when I was in mine. Also, if you don't have the GM T56 manual yet lemme know....I'll email you the .pdf version.
Yeah, I already looked through the manual, and I am definitely hoping that you or some other guys here would be able to point me in the right direction from time to time.
I looked though tool requirements and for the most part doesn't look bad. Dial caliper, gear pullers, a press (hoping to buy relatively soon), and that end-play tool. What did you use for that last one. The manual says to make it yourself, but by now someone has got to have one and it doesn't look complicated at all.
I still have my college ID, so have full access to their machine shop and I was thinking of trying to make it, or finding someone in college that knows how to make it. But as another alternative, is there anyone out there already making these?
I looked though tool requirements and for the most part doesn't look bad. Dial caliper, gear pullers, a press (hoping to buy relatively soon), and that end-play tool. What did you use for that last one. The manual says to make it yourself, but by now someone has got to have one and it doesn't look complicated at all.
I still have my college ID, so have full access to their machine shop and I was thinking of trying to make it, or finding someone in college that knows how to make it. But as another alternative, is there anyone out there already making these?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
I borrowed one from a guy I know at a dealership. He had to sneak it out one night because they don't exactly loan out the "special" tools. When I go back into the tranny I'm planning on just having one made. It wouldn't be tough to do on a lathe, and steel rod stock is pretty common to find laying around machine shops. You have all the dimensions so just print that last page of the manual and take it to the machine shop.
If you find someone to make it and it's not too pricey, let me know. I'll split the cost with you if you'll get 2 made. Should save us both a couple bucks.
You'll need a bearing seperator also. They run about $30 at the major parts stores.
If you find someone to make it and it's not too pricey, let me know. I'll split the cost with you if you'll get 2 made. Should save us both a couple bucks.
You'll need a bearing seperator also. They run about $30 at the major parts stores.
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