ACK! Help! whatever caused the bolts to fall out also stripped the threads inside the sub frames and the bolts will only go halfway and im afraid to drive it like this with the spohn torque arm hooked up to the crossmember. How can I fix the threads?

 

I don't know about fixing the threads but if they are completely toast, you may consider nut-serts.
I describe and show photos of them about 2/3s down in this thread-
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hlight=nutsert

Not cheap, but they do a good job. They have been holding my engine down for the last 2 years or so with no problem.

What the heck are you doing to that car to reef on the xmember threads that hard? Seems strange that they would just let go like that.

I will be replacing my xmember bolts/nuts when I swap in the 383/t56 this winter. I tried to loosen the stock bolts and could feel that sickening "twist" meaning the bolt was shearing. Yeech! I just left it until the t56 goes in-
Best
S-D

 

I have no idea, I just woke up and was stepping into my truck and looked over (I have a inclined driveway) and saw my cars xmember hanging from one side . Any place that sells these locally like lowes or something? Thos eseem like they could do the job.

 

The only place I know is McMaster Carr. Here is the link to the site. http://www.mcmaster.com/ Search for "Rivet Nut". Look for the knurled neck steel ones- they are pretty tough. They have standard and metric.

You also need the tool to crimp the rivet nut into the frame member. They are found down at the bottom of the McMaster search page- those are pricey- $50 or so. Might find one on eBay for less.

The rivet nut or nut-sert is just one option- the threads may be able to be salvaged in your frame. That would make things easier-

S-D

 

So how could I repair the threads? I looked in and it just seems the top half is eaten up.

 

Did you consider taking a M10 x 1.5 tap and 'chasing' the threads? You said the bolts went in only half way? Did you buy the GM bolts or use 'hardware store' ones? If you bought the store variety did you go with 30, 35 or 40mm length? Anyway if there is potentially good threads left (and enough of them) then I would try getting a hold of the above mentioned tap and a holder and give that a try. I would use PB Blaster, Kroil, Never-seize, motor oil or the like to lubricate the tap when chasing those threads.

Make sure you keep the tap in line with the threaded hole when you do this. Don't get overzealous/impatient and skew the 'chased' threads.

Another option is you may be able to step up to a larger diameter bolt i.e. drill out any remaining threads in the sub frame plate(s) and tap the holes for 1/2-13 bolts. A 1/2-13 tap requires a 27/64 (.422" dia.) pilot hole which is just a bit larger than the major dia. of a M10 bolt......so you wouldn't have to drill out too much material.

Mike

 

I bought the GM bolts. Where do I find so called tap?

 

Ace or TrueValue may have the M10 x 1.5 tap. I'm sure they would have the 27/64 drill and 1/2-13 tap. Sears sells tap and die kits and possibly the metric sizes individually.

I would check with a local machine shop or maybe your employer has a maintenance or tool room department that could help you out. A local mechanic or auto repair shop may have the tap and holder they would be willing to loan or borrow out to you.

Not being able to see first hand what your situation exactly is I suggest chasing the existing hole out with M10 x 1.5 tap first then go from there.

Mike

 

If that doesn't work, you could try tapping for a larger size with the same pitch.

 

Ok, I tried to re-tap using a 10MM 1.5 pitch tap and that was a no go. Wjhat should the next size to try be?

 

M11 x 1.5 or M12 x 1.5

 

M11 it is.

 

Knock out the factory inserts and put real nuts & washers up there. You'll have to put a hole in the frame member in order to get a wrench up there (I just enlarged the existing drain hole), but that's no big deal.