I picked up a 2002 LS1 driveshaft w/dampner, and I need tips for installing it.

It will be going in a 1990 GTA with a WC T5.

Should I get new u joints? Apply grease anywhere? Do I have to drain the tranny first?

Can someone give step by step instructions? Maybe this could be a sticky?

Sorry for these simplistic questions, but I've searched for "replace driveshaft" and "install driveshaft" and had lots of people arguing about the benifits of aluminum vs. steel, but little in the way of how to install it.

Thanks,

Don

 

it just bolts in like stock.
the reason noone talks about installing it is theres nothing special or hard about it.

i'll type up a step by step if you want:

• the rear u joint of the driveshaft is held onto the diff by two straps. these two straps are held on by four 11mm bolts. undo these bolts and take the straps off.
• carefully using a screwdriver or your hands, pry/push the driveshaft forward towards the trans. DONT pry or scratch the "cups" or the machined round parts the u joint.
• the shaft can now drop down and you can pull it out of the trans.
• if you're putting in a driveshaft loop, nows the time to do it.
• new one goes in just as easy. slip the front into the back of the trans (thru the driveshaft loop if you bought one) if the part going into the trans is bone dry, wipe some ATF on it first... you can just dip your finger in the tailshaft if needed...
• with your hands, press the driveshaft into place on the diff
• put the straps and 11mm bolts back on. i put them in "tight for the bolt size" based on experiance... there is a torque spec somewhere, but i dont know it.

u joints dont have to be replaced unless they're bad or worn.

 

Thanks.

At Denny's driveshaft he says 17ft/lbs. of torque and do not overtighten or you'll make the caps out of round.

Should any grease go on the u joints in the rear, and what type of grease?

 

17 ft-lbs is believable; I would have guessed the spec to be 18-20, based on hardware size and thread; and that's what I usually use (basically, a light to medium pull on a 3/8" ratchet). Properly designed and sized hardware has very consistent torque specs on that basis, no matter whether it's a head bolt, main bolt, body bolt, or whatever. If they needed more holding power, they'd have used a larger fastener and more torque; if they needed less holding power, they'd have reduced the size (cost, weight, chance of error) accordingly. Grease the threads.

Any good-quality grease is OK. White lithium, moly, synthetic, are probably the best choices. I would avoid the cheaper greases that use fibers as the filler. The U-joint either needs a fitting to grease it through, or you can grease 3 caps by removing one and shooting the trunnion and do the 4th by hand, or if the joints you have use solid trunnions, you'll have to disassemble the whole thing and do all 4 by hand.

 

heh, my first step got skipped....


i'll type the jist of it:


you want the rear end of the car higher then the front so nothing spills out the tailshaft.

you want the rear axle drooping so you can easily get to it.

i usually do this by placing my jackstands under the chassis side of the LCA mount.

 

I use a plasma cutter, and cut the driveshaft off the transmission and the axle. Be careful, I had to take off bits of the transmission and axle yoke. I also cut the driveshaft in half so I can take it out. I cut the new shaft in half so I can bring them up easily. Then I welded the shaft to the transmission and the axle yoke and welded the 2 halves together. I then reinforced the driveshaft with some rebar, welded to the driveshaft in a parallel direction. Then I welded a driveshaft loop to the driveshaft and welded that frame using 1" tubular bars. I haven't run it yet, but that's all connected nice and solid! I TIG welded, not that messy MIG stuff! My welds are all nice and clean.





j/k....do what Mr. Dude and RB said.

 

AHH!! That's what I did wrong. I was told to cut in in a long spiral pattern, unroll it, and then after it's under the car, reroll it back into the round shape. All I can say is that now I've got forearms like Popeye. I don't have one of those fancy welding machines, so I just put lots of JB-Weld all over it, and wrapped it really good with duct tape. Should hold up just fine.

Steve
[tongue firmly in cheek]

 

Rear of car higher than front - I have that one memorized.

I need a little more help on placement of the jackstands....

I was going to put the jackstands under the rear axle - this is incorrect I take it?

Thanks,

Don

 

It's easier if you put the stands under the frame like Mr Dude said, and let the rear hang; it's alot easier to get a tool onto the U-joiont strap bolts.