Going from stock to a street strip trans with shift kit and all that and about a 2400 stall and 3.73 gears in the rear. How will my car behaive compaired to stock??

 

Less traction

 

LOL.....awesome!! Just what I'm looking for

 

Just wondering i already have 3.73's in mine and some other bolt ons will i feel a diff if i change to a 2400 stall..

 

As someone else posted, loss of traction, no joke there. My setup is similar, I have the 3.73 but not sure of the TC stall speed, just purchased car a few months ago. The B&M shift kit was installed as well.

Granted the tires are balded from usage on my previous Camaro, however, there is no need to brake torque when you wanna put on a smoke show. 1/2 throttle with the TV cable all the way in and it lights without a prob, hence, poor traction.

For day to day driving, I compensated by adjusting the TV cable out 2 notches from bottomed out and it works pretty well. One notch out is OK for coming off the line without grabbing the long arm of the laws attention, but when upshifting to second it will chirp or spin the tires completely, pending on how hard you're on it.

In a nutshell, the setup makes a serious impact, you just need to tweak around a little to set civil daytime runner to nighttime 'darn this animal is a runner'.

Hope that helps

 

IM lost with all this tranny talk lol...im good with motors...still learnin bout trannys....when u say tv cable do u mean the throttle cable or somethin else lol sorry if thats dumb

 

Im going from a t-5 to 700r4 (not even driven on) and putting in a turbo 350 so im no 700r4 guru.

But ive heard from alot of people that adjusting the tv cable any tighter than the factory position (700r4) will result in a fried trans.

 

I've heard the same that any setting other than factory could damage the tranny. How much improvment in traction will an aftermarket torque arm provide?? Such as Spohn or Global West.

 

I've never really seen or heard of anyone fryinig the tranny by adjusting the TV. I coud see iit being possible if the motor were extremely tweaked and the tranny was stock w/an aftermarket high stall converter.

But, on my app. I do have the B&M kit which modifys fluid flow around the valve body and already changes the shift feel by altering applied pressures. This is my second car w/this setup and never seen a increase in clutch pack debris at filter changes. Then again, that could be in part of not using regular fluid, but B&M 's Trick shift instead?

 

im running 3.73s and a 2400 stall 9.5" torque converter with the mods in my sig. I was able to cut 2.007 60' times at the track with Goodyear GTII tires (215/65/15s), which would definately be in the 1.90 range with some better tires or drag radials. The 2400 stall has little effect on daily driving and i still get about 23 mpg on the highway. I love the setup. You should be able to get a 2400 stall 12" TC for about 350 depending on which place you go to. The only reason i got an ACT 9.5" converter is because i got a great deal on a 5000 mile converter and probuilt tranny.

 

I noticed a huge difference from when i went from the stock 700R4/converter to my new Built 700R4/3000 stall 9.5" with lockup.

The car rips 1st and 2nd gear from a rolling start and traction is pretty much non-existent now on street tires Daily driving is actually alot more fun, this is my only car, gas mileage is about the same, especially with the lockup feature which helps alot on the highway.

I got 20mpg coming home from the track, mostly highway and some backroads.

And with Hoosier QTP's on 2.73 gears, I pulled a 1.74 sixty foot on a street night! Converters are definitely worth it, it will be the best decision you make.