Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

synthetic in 700R4's

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Old Oct 30, 2004 | 02:34 AM
  #1  
kairles's Avatar
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From: Antelope, CA
Car: 89 IrocZ/17 LS 1LE
Engine: 383/LGX
Transmission: 400/TR-3160
Axle/Gears: 3.08/3.27
synthetic in 700R4's

I was told that running synthetic atf is not recommended is this true and if so why?
I had my tranny built in 2001 and have sence only used B&M trick shift synthetic atf and haven't had one problem with my trans and the person that told me this was suprised

I also change the fluid and filter once a year and now its time for a flush
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Old Oct 30, 2004 | 10:19 PM
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Parrydise7's Avatar
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From: SoCal
I've used Mobil 1 for years without any problems. The stuff is pretty expensive, though.
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Old Oct 30, 2004 | 10:24 PM
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grafx's Avatar
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From: So. California
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
Pro-built recommends AMMCO says it's really mobil fluid but not synthetic.
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Old Oct 30, 2004 | 11:43 PM
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I use the synthetic in mine with no problems.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 09:36 PM
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MYBLUZ's Avatar
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From: pacific NW
Car: 1991 Z28 1LE A.K.A The blue rocket
Engine: Blown 383
Transmission: Full manual 700R4
I run the Redline synthetic and it works fine.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 09:42 PM
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From: Calimesa, California, U.S.
Amsoil & Redline are very good synthetics, and I recommend them. Stay away from B&M Trickshift, as it is nothing but reworked Type "F" fluid.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 11:36 PM
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 1989 GTA Nighthawk
Engine: 389 CID TPI
Transmission: TCI 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23
Mobil 1, no problems, I did kill two transmissions and 2 torque converters, but I think that was my engine and driving habits that caused the carnage.
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 02:53 AM
  #8  
kairles's Avatar
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From: Antelope, CA
Car: 89 IrocZ/17 LS 1LE
Engine: 383/LGX
Transmission: 400/TR-3160
Axle/Gears: 3.08/3.27
Originally posted by Pro Built Automatics
Stay away from B&M Trickshift, as it is nothing but reworked Type "F" fluid.
what do you mean reworked and which trick shift because I've been using the full sythetic with no problems for 3 years
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Old Nov 2, 2004 | 01:36 PM
  #9  
Pro Built Automatics's Avatar
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From: Calimesa, California, U.S.
I am not aware of the B&M synthetic Trick Shift. I am talking about the non-synthetic that has been around for past 25+ years. I will have to check into the B&M synthetic Trick Shift.
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 12:38 PM
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From: Milton Keynes, England
Car: 2009 Volvo V50 R Design
Engine: 2.0 turbo diesel
Transmission: 6 speed auto
Axle/Gears: yes, both
I'm running Hurst Hot Shift, and so far it seems fine- fluid was changed 4000 miles ago, and its still clean, no change in tranny behaviour.

tranny is 700R4, engine is LG4, both stock with 131 000 miles.
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Old Nov 26, 2004 | 05:42 PM
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From: Chicago
Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: Built TH-700 R4 (Vilgilante 2800)
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ PBR's
How much thinner is synthetic ATF than regular Dexron III ATF? Is it like synthetic motor oil though in which it is best to run it as early in its life as possible (except the break in period)? I know that using synthetics on an old engine will make the piston rings and valve seals leak, is there a same rule for not using synthetic in an old tranny. I just had my trans built 700 miles ago so I am not worried about, I just was wondering.

Kevin
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 12:09 AM
  #12  
TomP's Avatar
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I tried out B&M trick shift; never noticed a difference! In fact it was a pain in the butt- the Trick Shift is blue. Mix that with red trans fluid and you get brown. So every time you check the stick, it looks like your trans fluid is burnt- and on your next trans fluid change, the fluid will still look brown b/c of the residual blue+red mix that's left in the trans. Like I said; a big pain in the butt and a dent in the wallet all for nuthin'.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 05:11 AM
  #13  
philoldsmobile's Avatar
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From: Milton Keynes, England
Car: 2009 Volvo V50 R Design
Engine: 2.0 turbo diesel
Transmission: 6 speed auto
Axle/Gears: yes, both
the hurst stuff is red, so i dont have that problem...
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 03:39 PM
  #14  
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IHI
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Synthetic fluid is great for transmissions, it really helps lower tranny temps during extreme operation, normal temp drop on average is 20* which is huge. So long as you dont have any leaks, switching to synthetic is no biggie other than $$$. Alot of other guys run standard hydrauilc fluid like they use in tractors. 0W I beileve. Makes all the parts look nice and new when you goto rebuild and has no ill effects, but many convertor companies will void warranty if they find clear fluid in their convertor if sent back.
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Old Nov 27, 2004 | 09:08 PM
  #15  
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From: Chicago
Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: Built TH-700 R4 (Vilgilante 2800)
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ PBR's
Can you mix synthetic and regulat ATF?

Kevin
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 03:33 AM
  #16  
vejatabul's Avatar
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From: garland,tx
Car: 1988 gta
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: turbo 350
yes. all auto trans fluids are compatible. i have 6 quarts of synergen and 2 1/2 type-f(not some kind of trick, i just couldnt find my synergen when i needed a few quarts)
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 08:08 AM
  #17  
IHI's Avatar
IHI
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
yes, just try to get as much old fluid out as possible
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Old Nov 28, 2004 | 01:42 PM
  #18  
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From: Chicago
Car: 1989 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: L98 350 TPI
Transmission: Built TH-700 R4 (Vilgilante 2800)
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ PBR's
Why thank you all very much!

Kevin
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