Well I got on her today and heard a whine, and it did not feel like I got the traction I normally do, I put her on my new jack (yah!) and posi looked fine, but there were metal shavings Bah it lasted longer than I ever expected but I know my time with my rear end is limited (haha)

I'm needing a rearend able to withstand lots of abuse, lets just say I may enter the realm of 700hp within the next year (if I keep it that long) and just curious if anyone can recommend me a bullet proof rear.

 

for thar power level, id get a 12 bolt.

9" rears need more power to turn ...

 

Why not buy the strongest rear you can get since there priced about the same. And about that more power to turn thing does anyone have any numbers to back that up? because from what I heard from a few guys that dynoed there cars they only lose about 5 hp swaping to 9" rears from there 10 bolts.

 

Id try and keep it all chevy if its worth anything ..

http://www.moserengineering.com/mose...s.asp?CatID=28

 

I have talked to several established bracket racers and they say that dana 60/ford 9inch take 5% more power to turn than a stock 10bolt. But then again this was their opinion. 5% isn't really that much of a loss being this rear end needs to last me till I get rid of it.

 

If you are going to go the aftermarket 9" ford route why not consider a 12 bolt from moser or strange? They will cost you about the same when it is all said and done.

 

WOW!!! 5% that kinda sucks that is like a 20 hp loss with 400 horse.

 

Percentage losses are never accurate. It takes a fixed amount of HP to turn the diff or tranny.

20 hp loss with 400 hp. That means my 830 hp engine would lose 41.5 hp going through the same diff. I don't think so.

Parasitic driveline lose is fixed. The 10 bolt doesn't take a lot of HP to turn. The 9" and 12 bolt take a little bit more but on a high HP car, you'll never notice the difference between the 2 of them.

Since they're both roughly the same price, buy what you like. In cars like Stock Eliminator, they have to use the 12 bolt because they're not allowed to put a Ford diff under a GM.

The nice thing about the 9" is that there's only one carrier required. You buy a posi in the spline count of whatever axles you want to use then you can change your gear ratios onto the same carrier. Put some 2.50 gears for high speed highway driving or 6.50+ gears for rock crawling. There's no multi series carriers required for the gear swaps.

 

Having only one carrier is a great benefit if you live in a place with an 1/8-mile racetrack and lots of open roads for high-speed driving, such as Kingman, AZ. Thirty minutes, then Wam! Back on the highway.

 

I'm new to the 9", would someone miond telling me what has to be done to have a second carrier set up for like 3.40 to compliment my current 4.11's? An idea on what parts are necessary, approx. costs, what you have to do to change them out, etc. would be real mice.....

 

Speaking of mice, did you know three mice are missing from a NJ biochemical test lab that have the bubonic plague?

What do you mean by second carrier setup. You get another set of gears and install them. Takes about 30 minutes. They dont cost much. I'm guessing 200 dollars maybe less. You keep one set of gears for racing and one for street driving. Although, I have told others before that our 95Z28 has 4.10's and we have no problem with them on the highway.

 

thats some scary Schit

 

OK on the mice.... jeez... rag a guy for his typos why don't ya

Guess I'll have to learn how to pull and install/set-up gear sets....

THe reason is for fuel economy on highway trips. My old 3.42 10-bolt RPMs were noticeably lower at 70MPH than the 4.11's are with my T-5. Your T-56 makes a bit of a difference... LOL

 

Your right on the T56 thing. Changing gears isn't that difficult really. You can buy video's or books on how to do it. As far as the mice thing goes, I was just passing on pertinent info...

 

It's true, the story is on yahoo's front home page in the news section..lol