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Did my T5 swap this weekend, tips within.

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Old 01-16-2005, 08:12 PM
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Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
Did my T5 swap this weekend, tips within.

I finally got around to swapping the T5 into my '88 T/A. It went very well, thought I'd share my experience for reference for others. The whole job took me 9 hours including two hours messing with the hydraulics and going out to get another slave cylinder. I have a lift and all the proper tools so it may take longer for those that have to work with hand tools in the driveway.

I did the pedals first anticipating that being the hardest part of the job. Pulled the drivers seat, console, both knee panels and the steering column out then removed all of the bolts holding the stock pedal in. To drill the holes for the master cylinder, I made a template from the donor car I got the trans from but I didn't need it. I pulled the carpet down and there were cutouts in the the padding marking where to drill the holes. I traced them and started cutting. Ended up getting luck and it all lined up perfect. Now it's all assembly. New pedals, master/slave, steering column and panels. Don't forget to plug in all the connections under there. Then I pulled out the auto shifer and cables. Then the tranny came out. Throw the new clutch in place and the bellhousing. Lined up the new tranny and marked around it to cut the hole for the shifter. I used an air cutoff wheel from the top to cut the hole. Then I went back underneath and bolted the tranny up and the shifter, driveshaft etc.. I have a drawer full of electrical stuff in my toolbox and found the right connector for my speedo. I ended up using a new slave cylinder b/c I couldn't bleed the old one. I got mine from advance and it's much better than stock. It's got a metal housing and a nice bleeder valve.I never hooked up the neutral safety switch, just spliced the two wires together to bypass it. Word of warning!....make sure you keep the clutch line away from the headers. Mine burned through and they are impossible to get locally and you have to buy a whole hydraulic kit to get it. I got lucky and have a buddy's car at the shop that I stole the line off of. I had to order mine from a dealer in Michigan. Good thing is his car is a 97 so now I've got the nice braided stainless line instead of the plastic junk.

Bleeding the hydro:
I've found the best way to bleed the system is to first crack the bleeder open on the back of the slave. Keep it open until fluid steadily flows out. Tighten that up and then depress the rod on the slave with the cap off of the reservoir.. This will force any air up the line and out of the reservoir. Re-install the slave and check the pedal for firmness.

Parts:
Here's a list of everything that I found I needed.

-T5 (duh) from a thirdgen fbody.
-bellhousing
-flywheel and clutch
-pedals
-shifter
-throwout bearing - new
-pilot -new
-master/slave/line - preferrably new
-weatherpack connector for reverse lockout and reverse lights.
-lower shifter boot. The donor car I got the setup from was missing this part, so now I am too. I need to get one, tons of noise comes through there

I used the stock auto crossmember and the tranny mount. -

I'm sure I forgot something, I'll edit the post when I remember.
Old 01-16-2005, 10:10 PM
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
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Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
I'd like some details on pulling the auto cable off the steering column. I am assuming this is why you have to drop the column, otherwise I had no problem working around it in stock position.


I've still not finished mine from new years, waiting on damn parts to come in that I didnt know I needed.
Old 01-17-2005, 12:59 PM
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Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
Oh yeah, I needed the starter off the donor car too. The auto starter wouldn't fit the bellhousing.

As far as the cable goes, there are two 8mm bolts and a phillips head screw that hold the mechanism and ignition switch to the colum. The cable goes under the carpet to the shifter and I tucked it up out of the way and put the ignition switch back on the column.
Old 01-17-2005, 01:18 PM
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Car: 2002 SS
Engine: Ls1
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Axle/Gears: 3:42 posi
can someone please explain to me what this master cyl thing is with a picture or something.. im totally confused.. i kno it is for the hydrollic clutch and all.. but im confused on how it works and what it looks like and where it goes.. i will be doing the t56 swap someday from my current auto
Old 01-17-2005, 06:01 PM
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Car: 1985 Mustang GT
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Transmission: a hamster wheel
Originally posted by NastyL98_T/A
Oh yeah, I needed the starter off the donor car too. The auto starter wouldn't fit the bellhousing.

As far as the cable goes, there are two 8mm bolts and a phillips head screw that hold the mechanism and ignition switch to the colum. The cable goes under the carpet to the shifter and I tucked it up out of the way and put the ignition switch back on the column.
All I did was cut mine, could that turn out to be bad? Ive had it like that for almost 2 years now. *edit* I also bled my slave the same way and it worked like a charm! Rather than pushing in the pedal which didnt work at all.
Old 01-17-2005, 07:35 PM
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Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
I think you'll be ok cutting it. All it does is lock the lock cylinder when the car is in gear so you can't start the car. As long as the cylinder is in the unlocked position you're good

Crazy: The hydraulic system works just like a brake setup. The master cylinder connects to the clutch pedal and goes throught the firewall. A line then connects this master to the slave, which is attatched to the bellhousing. A rod comes out of the slace cylinder and sets into a recess in the clutch fork. When you depress the pedal, the master cylinder displaces fluid and pressurizes the line which forces the rod out of the slave cylinder which in turn pushed the clutch fork in and releses the clutch.

Another tip: When I bolted the master to the firewall I used to nuts/bolts instead of the stock u-bolt. Using two bolts will give you a little leeway when drilling the holes in the firewall. If you use the ubolt you need to get the holes almost perfect, using the two bolt method is more forgiving.
Old 01-17-2005, 08:34 PM
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oookk nasty that cleared some up.. any pics of the master cyc slave cyl set up please if not its ok
Old 01-17-2005, 09:56 PM
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Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
I was going to take pics to document the swap, but I got busy and forgot. I'm sure I have one at the shop I can snap some shots of tomorrow
Old 01-18-2005, 01:18 AM
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Boy this swap doesn't sound that bad at all. I want to eventually go to a T-56. Assuming I have a T-5 in my car...to go to a T-56, is the only modification to the car needed the dakota digital box? Then the rest is just swapping the trans, clutch, throwout/pilot bearings?
Old 01-18-2005, 08:04 AM
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Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
Yup, that's it. That's why I did the T5 swap. I want a T56 but havent come across any deals lately, so now when I find one I can just throw it in there
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