I have two questions about the clutch on my T56.

1) There's been something slipping when I floor it in first, even while moving. I don't know if it's one wheel spinning cause' the posi isn't working right (and yes, it's a posi), or if it's the clutch. I don't know what a slipping clutch sounds like (or how to diagnose), any info? (I don't hear any of the screeching or whirring you normally hear from burning tires when this happens)

2) My clutch release seems awfuly long. I have to push it almost all the way to the clutch/starter switch to fully release. I think this is causing me to miss the 2-3 shift, as it's hard to push, shift, and release in perfect timing. Is there any way to adjust the clutch so that it engages further up, and could this be related to problem 1?

 

ttt

 

OK, the problem I want to solve first is why the clutch won't disengage easily.

I went out and performed tests, and with a 1000 RPM engine speed, you have to push the clutch in ALL the way to not move the car. Once you release it at all, you start to move.

My master cylinder is not perfectly in line with the clutch pedal, as in the drawing. When you push in on the clutch, the master cylinder bends slightly. Is this normal? Or is it because it is not perfectly lined up with the clutch pedal?

Note: The MC actuator rod does not appear to bind on the body of the MC (It's not at that much of an angle)

Thanks for your help, I just want to get this fixed.

 

What type of clutch do you have and how old is it? You sure the slipping isn't because of wear?

As long as your MC rod isn't gettin stuck or anything then I think the angle is fine. I put the MC in the wrong spot and the rod refused to move because of the angle. Also, how old is your MC/slave? They're not very expensive new from GM.

 

I had my pivot ball back out and I had to push the clutch father and father for it to disengauge

 

colonboy:

Bleed the hydraulics

 

The clutch and hydraulics are stock GM, and only about 1 year old. I thought they were self bleeding, does bleeding them manually work better?

I'll check the pivot ball too.

 

self bleeding.....that's a new one on me, there self ajusting, they come from the factory as a single unit and there pre-filled, but if you dumped any fluid out or had the hydrolics apart for any reason you will need to re-bleed them, there is a small allen head screw on the slave cylender for this porpose, just use the same procedure as for brakes.

 

oh, duh, that was a stupid question ... self bleeding. I've never taken it apart, but I guess I can try bleeding it for kicks.