I have a WC T-5 out of a 92 camaro.. It was making alot of noise so we pulled it.. the throw out bearing was waisted so that might have been the noise but also the input shaft has ALOT of play in it.. enough so that when we pulled the tranny the pilot bushing just fell out of the back of the engine and is about as thin as a couple peices of paper.. we got the bearing, but when going to install it we realized the original is shimmed.. where can I buy the shims?? what size are they?? does anyone have any suggestions?? I cant put her back together until I figure this out, I figure if I dont shim it I will totally screw something up.. 
Supreme Member
There are no shims for the pilot bearing.
There's supposed to be play in the clutch gear. There's nothing to keep it from having play. Transmissions are always sloppy loose when out of a car; the pilot bearing at the front, and the drive shaft yoke at the rear, suport the shafts and hold them still. Without those things, they are free to wander around quite a bit.
If you already took the clutch gear of and just want to change the bearing, just re-use the shims that are there. Their purpose is to make up for variations in the size of the case. If you're using the same case, use the same shims.
But I can tell you, that won't make any significant difference in the "play" of the clutch gear.
What kind of "noise" does it make? Under what conditions? (in what gears, when accelerating or coasting, etc.)
There's supposed to be play in the clutch gear. There's nothing to keep it from having play. Transmissions are always sloppy loose when out of a car; the pilot bearing at the front, and the drive shaft yoke at the rear, suport the shafts and hold them still. Without those things, they are free to wander around quite a bit.
If you already took the clutch gear of and just want to change the bearing, just re-use the shims that are there. Their purpose is to make up for variations in the size of the case. If you're using the same case, use the same shims.
But I can tell you, that won't make any significant difference in the "play" of the clutch gear.
What kind of "noise" does it make? Under what conditions? (in what gears, when accelerating or coasting, etc.)
ok.. where to start.. it started like this.. thow it in neutral and start it up (clutch pedal out) makes a grinding noise... to make it stop I would depress the clutch pedal and just slightly push into 1st gear and right back into neutral releasing the pedal.. after releasing the pedal it would usually quit.. and sittin at a red light with the car in 1st pedal pressed in it would also make the grinding noise (there is a slight whine also) but you can acually feel the grinding through the shifter.. here lately its alot worse.. push the clutch in while im driving down the road and throw a rev at someone it will do it.. (grinding)..... so it makes noise with the clutch pedal out at idle sometimes but I can make it quit with playing with the clutch.. but if the PRM's are too high it WILL NOT quit.. like a cold start up idle at 1500 +.. no matter what I do it makes the noise.. and if I push the clutch in while driving (still in gear) it does it.. so I figured I could elimnate the clutch itself since it will do it pedal in or out.. it just does it under different circustances..
btw.. we had already removed the old bearing and the shims are already gone.. my dad told me we couldnt reuse them so he just threw them out.. 
now i got a bearing an no shims.. will it mess it up terribly to run without shims??
now i got a bearing an no shims.. will it mess it up terribly to run without shims?? Supreme Member
Oh man.... that was not a good move.....
It ABSOLUTELY POSTIVELY MUST HAVE THE SHIMS!!!!
The only way I know to get those shims, is to buy a whole "rebuild kit". It will have all the bearings, snap rings, and a whole bunch of other stuff, in addition to the shims. You can get a kit from www.5speeds.com probably cheaper than any other way.
You choose a shim by setting the clutch gear preload. I usually do it by taking all the shims out of the clutch gear bearing retainer, and putting just the bearing in it. I set the transmission up on its rear end, supported by the case NOT THE MAINSHAFT, so that the mainshaft hangs free inside the case. I put the clutch gear pocket rollers in, packed in there with the thickest NON-FIBER grease I can find, with the Torrington and everything else just as it would be when fully assembled. Then I put the clutch gear bearing on with the bolts just barely finger-tight to the point that they barely contact the retainer (did I say "barely" enough?), and with a feeler gauge, adjust all 4 bolts until the gap between the retainer and the case is even all the way around. Then I select shims that are about .008" less than the measured gap.
Judging by your description though, it's been driving around like that for so long, that the tip of the mainshaft is probably already wasted. If so, then there's nothing you can do to fix it except replace the mainshaft, which costs as much as or more than a junk transmission. Basically, if that little tip of the mainshaft where it plugs into the clutch gear, has any detectable wear AT ALL, and I do mean ANY AT ALL, it has zero chance of survival.
It ABSOLUTELY POSTIVELY MUST HAVE THE SHIMS!!!!
The only way I know to get those shims, is to buy a whole "rebuild kit". It will have all the bearings, snap rings, and a whole bunch of other stuff, in addition to the shims. You can get a kit from www.5speeds.com probably cheaper than any other way.
You choose a shim by setting the clutch gear preload. I usually do it by taking all the shims out of the clutch gear bearing retainer, and putting just the bearing in it. I set the transmission up on its rear end, supported by the case NOT THE MAINSHAFT, so that the mainshaft hangs free inside the case. I put the clutch gear pocket rollers in, packed in there with the thickest NON-FIBER grease I can find, with the Torrington and everything else just as it would be when fully assembled. Then I put the clutch gear bearing on with the bolts just barely finger-tight to the point that they barely contact the retainer (did I say "barely" enough?), and with a feeler gauge, adjust all 4 bolts until the gap between the retainer and the case is even all the way around. Then I select shims that are about .008" less than the measured gap.
Judging by your description though, it's been driving around like that for so long, that the tip of the mainshaft is probably already wasted. If so, then there's nothing you can do to fix it except replace the mainshaft, which costs as much as or more than a junk transmission. Basically, if that little tip of the mainshaft where it plugs into the clutch gear, has any detectable wear AT ALL, and I do mean ANY AT ALL, it has zero chance of survival.
Well I have no idea what damage has already been done or if the tranny is repairable or not.. I just know that I need it fixed Do you do transmission work on the side or anything because you sound like you have done alot of these?? If you do I would be happy to take it out and bring it to you and let you look at it for me.. My dad meant well but he is a welder by trade, not a mechanic.. I figured that the worst that could happen is that the bearing would wear out faster than it normally would.. I wish I had a sound clip of driving the car so you could hear the noise.. I have literally called every local transmission shop in the yellow pages and noone messes with manual transmissions anymore.. its so frustrating.. I honestly cant afford a T56 at this point and I dont see any use in spending 560 bucks at Hawks for a rebuilt one unless I have to.. The cost of shipping mine down there and shipping back would be outragious..This sucks
Do you do transmission work on the side or anything because you sound like you have done alot of these?? If you do I would be happy to take it out and bring it to you and let you look at it for me.. My dad meant well but he is a welder by trade, not a mechanic.. I figured that the worst that could happen is that the bearing would wear out faster than it normally would.. I wish I had a sound clip of driving the car so you could hear the noise.. I have literally called every local transmission shop in the yellow pages and noone messes with manual transmissions anymore.. its so frustrating.. I honestly cant afford a T56 at this point and I dont see any use in spending 560 bucks at Hawks for a rebuilt one unless I have to.. The cost of shipping mine down there and shipping back would be outragious..This sucks
TGO Supporter
sounds like the tranny I just set to the side. The front bearing was bad, it wiggled the input shaft so much that it chipped some gears, and rounded off the end of the main shaft.
I just installed my new/used trans last night, and when I get home from work today, I take it for first test drive.
As RB suggested to me last week, find a new/used trans and call it fixed.
I just installed my new/used trans last night, and when I get home from work today, I take it for first test drive.
As RB suggested to me last week, find a new/used trans and call it fixed.
Supreme Member
No I don't "work on them"; I've worked on an awful lot though, because I had a 400 in my car for many years. I shredded about a dozen of them. Or actually, about 4 or 5 of them, about a dozen times.
If you have it out of the car, PM me sometime, and if you want to drive over here and I'm in town, I'll look at it.
If you have it out of the car, PM me sometime, and if you want to drive over here and I'm in town, I'll look at it.
well i have a digital camera so if nothing else I will just take it out next time I get a chance.. take a bunch of pictures of everything.. let you take a look.. and you can tell me if a rebuild is worth my time or if i should find a used one