I have a ZZ4 motor with peak torque about 3500rpm. Originally I was planning on getting a 2600-2800 stall converter. But since more stall gives better launches, I'd ideally like to get a 3000 or so. Only problem is that in town I dont want to be turning 4000 rpms to get anywhere.

But I have heard that the higher cost converters (ATI, Vigilante, Yank,...) are built so that when you are just cruising around they don't let the engine rev much more than stock. Is there any truth to this? Just wondering what results you guys with the higher end converters have. Thanks

 

dunno if this will help but my friend had a t-bird with a PI stallion set to stall at around 2800-3000 and I remember that thing worked great on his setup (just about every simple bolt-on you could imagine for a tbird w/ a 4.6, and still only high 14s) and everyday crusing was fine. I did some research on converters since he had one and this is what I learned. If something is not correct please let me know.

the high stall speed doesn't mean that you won't feel the car go into gear when you put from park into drive (and that's just at 550rpm or so). This tells you your car wants to move. It just means that when you really give it some torque (as in pressing the pedal on the right) it revs up a little higher than a stock one would to put it in your powerband more quickly. so unless you are launching at 3000rpm stop-light to stop-light, I'd say you shouldn't worry about it. if you get a lockup converter, this will make it act the same once you are crusing at a steady speed, since the mph is not affected by stall speed while in lockup.

BTW there's a couple reasons why I'd recommend either yank or precision industries if you're looking for a great converter, Precision Industries or Yank have those reasons listed on their site why their products are better. I'd at least read what they have to say. You CAN have too much stall, too. I'd e-mail all the companies and just ask what stall speed they'd recommend for a ZZ4 and see what they all say. They're the pros (or at least claim to be) and they should know best and you can get an idea of what their customer service is like. Hope this helps

 

I've used a stock converter, a 2400 RPM and currently a 3000 RPM stall and I didn't notice a BIG difference with the 2400... but after switching to the 3000, it's impossible to miss. I don't have as hard of a jerk when putting the car into gear, although you can still feel it, but it takes about 1700 rpm to get the car moving past idle speed (which has also slowed a bit). The motor is a 383 n' it's got an appreciable amount of bottom end torque, so i usually don't need any more than 2000-2500 RPM to get from place to place. My 10" converter was custom made by my dad's friend and still has lock-up capabilities, although it's not being activated right now... got some speedo gear adjustments to make. I do know however that this guy supposedly makes some of the better custom converters out there, n' he certainly didn't skimp on any of the parts, Torrington bearings and welded (not brazed) fins, n' sum kinda special balancing process. He owns a transmission shop n' he told my dad that all the TCI converters that he's taken apart DID NOT use Torrington bearings like they claim.

 

yeah, get a lock up converter especially for the 700r4.

they work great

i got a 2800 stall speed Edge Racing converter. great quality and a bit cheaper than Yank, precision industries, etc. similar to Midwest converters in price, about 550 shipped.

it locks up at 40mph and rpms go to normal speed in D and OD. on hills when crawling up them slowly, and in reverse, the rpms are higher but not too bad, at around 2000 rpms to 2400rpms. sounds good tho. LOL

for a zz4, i would do 3000 for sure. makes a great strip/street setup.

 

when you get an "expensive" converter, make sure you get one where they make it to your specs, so you don't get something that has more stall then your car actually needs. mine is roughly 2500, and it's definitely different driving around then with the b-stall converter, but on the highway, locked or unlocked, it acts the same as a stock converter. unlocked is roughly 200rpm higher than locked when cruising, just like stock. i went with ATI and they built mine around my motor/tranny/gear combo. but in town, it feels like the tranny is slipping. an aftermarket cooler is a must-have.

 

mdricken, have you stopped by Lints in CR yet and seen what he can get you? I'm sure based off all the other stuff we get from him, he can get a hellava deal on convertors too.

I ran a 10" 3500 TCI unit for 2 years with great results both on the street and very very consistent at the track ic won me alot of money and races

BTE is another highly touted convertor with GREAT customer service, if your interested in pricing out a BTE unit contact Steve Oldani, does 90% race trannies and convertor selections for racers all around teh country as well as out of the country, best part is he's right here in townhttp://oldanimotorsports.20megsfree.com/

I'm running another TCI 4800 stall in the car right now, donor ouot of the truck I run too, and last year was a proven winner at many races and street driving is no worse than my ole 3500. An no convertor (unless something's seriously wrong) will allow you to sit still and have the rpms go upto whatever the "stated" stall speed is before you move. Both of mine have driven like a typical stock convertor....until you stand on it

 

 

I just called ATI to see what they had. They guy in tech said I'd need to get higher gears (3.73 or higher) to run the 10" Streetmaster converter for the 700R4.

Did you get a 10" converter from these guys? What gears are you running?

 

yeah, i got my 10" from them, and i'm running a 4.10 gear

i wanna say they have some kind of 12" street converter though.

 

When I had my 700r4 I bought a 10" 2800 stall off ebay for that and the 3500 I had in my TH350 was a 10" as well. Kind of the fine line for much daily use and good track performance.

I had 3.42's with the 700r4, plus 2 others I blew up. I then inistalled 3.73 in the 4th rear with same convertor and it picked up a lilttle bit, used to trap about 5K then started trapping 5500 with 3.73.

Once you start increasing stall speed you want to reduce gearing some also, the slippage of the convertor builds aot of heat, and if you have a hwy 2.9? gear with a big stall it'll really put the strain on the convertor/tranny with all the added heat it'll be generating.

 

3500 stall yank in mine and no problems driving it daily. actually, 3500 stall is not a 'high stall'. if I ever get around to it, I'd like to get a thruster pro 4200 or 4400.

 

My converter is rated 3200-3400 but in my car stalls around 3000 or a little higher, maybe 3200.

I noticed a big difference driving it around town compared to my stock converter. The engine does rev a bit higher but i don't mind it and I daily drive it. It's actually alot more fun now and makes a bit more noise instead of lugging around

 

I have a Vigilante 2800 stall right now, no difference at all with driving and Very Happy with it! The only thing is I wish I went to a 3200, and since my TPI is coming out in the next year that extra hundred RPMs could really help. Well I still have time to get it restalled for Free.

Kevin

 

my Edge 9.5inch 2800stall works great with my stock 2.77 gears

it should be perfect with my new 3.27's that go in soon... and the stock L98,

but with 3.45's/3.73's and a superram which is what i plan, 3200-3500rpms would be great. but my 2800 is more like 3000rpm stall and should loosen up with more stout motor like a 383 superram