new to stall converters
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
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From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
new to stall converters
I'd like to add one too my car because I hear its one of the best performance mods you can do to an automatic transmission. However I really dont understand how they work. From what i've heard, i assumed it was that depending on the speed of the stall, you hold the gas down and when the rpm is right, the car begins to move. So say i wanted to add a 2600 stall to my car, the way i see it is that once the rpms get to 2600 rpm the car begins to move. Am i right? because if this is true than i dont want a like 3600 stall and have the tires chirp everytime i want to go...i want a small stall, just to get some more performance out of my car. <--that is to say if my "theory" of how they work is correct...
thanks guys.
thanks guys.
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From: MA
Car: 1981 Chevy Malibu, 1987 Formula 350
Engine: 229 V6, L98 TPI 350
Transmission: TH350, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt ???, 9 bolt 3.27 posi
well, i'm putting a 2400 stall torque converter in my car, havnt driven it yet of course, but from my understanding its not like the car isnt gonna move at anything under that stall, but ya know how if ya let off the brake when your in gear the car will slowly creep forward? pretty sure its the same thing pretty much.....the cars not gonna roll from a stop, but ya give it some gas any if ya have like a 2600 stall the car will probably start rolling at a little over 1000 rpm or something
thats just my understanding of it, i could be wrong, but yeah....
thats just my understanding of it, i could be wrong, but yeah....
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Converters are often described as being "loose" or "tight". The looser it is, the higher it stalls, the tighter it is the lower it stalls.
But, the converter only operates at stall under heavy load. So, the car will definately move at an RPM much lower than stall, but the engine RPMs will be higher for the same amount of movement - therefore, the engine will be putting out more torque/HP and will be able to accelerate the car more quickly.
As for chirping the tires, in reality "loose" converters won't chirp the tires like tighter converters will. Higher stall kind of "softens" the link between the engine and transmission, which reduces tire chirping. Of course, under power the looser converter is going to allow more torque to go to the driveshaft, since the engine is going to be producing more torque, so the tires may lose traction more readily - under power.
But, the converter only operates at stall under heavy load. So, the car will definately move at an RPM much lower than stall, but the engine RPMs will be higher for the same amount of movement - therefore, the engine will be putting out more torque/HP and will be able to accelerate the car more quickly.
As for chirping the tires, in reality "loose" converters won't chirp the tires like tighter converters will. Higher stall kind of "softens" the link between the engine and transmission, which reduces tire chirping. Of course, under power the looser converter is going to allow more torque to go to the driveshaft, since the engine is going to be producing more torque, so the tires may lose traction more readily - under power.
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From: Winston salem, NC
Car: 1987 1SICIROC.....1999 TransAm
Engine: 385 HSR.....LS1
Transmission: 700R4 with Midwest 3400 2.4str...M6
Axle/Gears: SLP Zexel Posi unit 3.42's...3.73's
I just added a 2800 stall and the car acts just like normal except when you want to GO!!! then you'll know what a stall does. You'll like it!
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
So im im at a stop and i have a 2600 stall, if i left off the brake it should go normal/semi normal but if i mash the gas down,from a stop, at 2600 the car will launch?....is that about right?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
So im im at a stop and i have a 2600 stall, if i left off the brake it should go normal/semi normal but if i mash the gas down,from a stop, at 2600 the car will launch?....is that about right?
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
laymens terms, think of the advertised stall speed as the max rpm the convertor will ever flash too. By flash I mean your sitting idle and stand one the accelerator, the convertor is now getting a barage of power from the engine and trying to move the heavy weight of your car from a dead stop so NOW it will flash to the rated rpm.
From a typical stop and go daily driver type deal, it will act no differently to what your used to now, especially with that low of a stall rating. Either way, it's always a good idea to install a big aftermarket tranny cooler when using a higher stall since it will slip more than stock and slippage creates heat which is bad for tranny guts.
Quick example, my stall is "rated" at 4600. I can pull away from a stop sign under "normal driving condidtions" and tach only moves to 14-1500rpm and I'm up and running. this same convertor when staged at the drag strip will "flash" to 5000rpm, meaning as so as the green light comes on, the tach goes to 5000rpm and car starts rolling-convertor is slipping internally allowing motor to stay in it's power band. Too loose of a convertor your wasting hp/tq that will result in slow ET/mph and put ALOT of heat into a transmission.
There's another post in the drag racing board about some of this under a how's this combination post, cant remember which it is right now.
From a typical stop and go daily driver type deal, it will act no differently to what your used to now, especially with that low of a stall rating. Either way, it's always a good idea to install a big aftermarket tranny cooler when using a higher stall since it will slip more than stock and slippage creates heat which is bad for tranny guts.
Quick example, my stall is "rated" at 4600. I can pull away from a stop sign under "normal driving condidtions" and tach only moves to 14-1500rpm and I'm up and running. this same convertor when staged at the drag strip will "flash" to 5000rpm, meaning as so as the green light comes on, the tach goes to 5000rpm and car starts rolling-convertor is slipping internally allowing motor to stay in it's power band. Too loose of a convertor your wasting hp/tq that will result in slow ET/mph and put ALOT of heat into a transmission.
There's another post in the drag racing board about some of this under a how's this combination post, cant remember which it is right now.
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