Actually the ring and pinion didn't break. The front housing (don't know what it's called) that holds the pinion is still attached to the DS. But my DS is laying on the ground. I'm thinking maybe the bolts on the U-joint were loose, causing some kind of shock to the yoke. I don't know what happened. The suckers toast and I need replacement parts. So, is the only place to get them from moser? Ford Dealer? Strange? What do you suggest?

Oh, and the 60' was 1.66

 

im running 60 foots like that with a 9 bolt stilll.....yeah i know its gonna bust

 

So no ideas on replacement parts? How bad is it to just buy another pinion gear instead of replacing the set? Will it just take a little longer to break in due to the different wear patterns?

 

Is it possible to post a pic of the carnage? I would go aftermarket on replacement parts (strange, currie, moser) for added strength over stock. Gears are sold in matched sets, and if you got just the pinion gear I would think it would be very noisy and/or a ticking time bomb.

 

I don't have a digi camera but I'll try to barrow one. Guess this gives me an excuse to step up the gears.

 

Yeah pics wuld help>>>I am assuming you just had a factory third member>>>not like a 1000HP pro setup 9"..

 

No I'm pretty sure it was a factory piece. I just hope I didn't break anything else. It popped at 6200rpm w/ no safety loop. oops

 

That isn't that uncommon. In truth a stock 9" is a great design, but not as durable as most people think. I've seen plenty break over the years. I saw one from an F150 that was literally destroyed. One ear of the yoke was broken off, the ring gear had teeth that were worn to a point, the pilot bearing bore in the case had fractured, and the housing had been ripped open along the seam where the studs are installed.

The reputation of the 9" was built on a handful of high performance factory rears in Boss mustangs and 428CJ cars. These rears used a nodular iron case, Daytona style pinion support, 31 spline axels, and 1350 u-joint yoke. They usually came with a Detroit locker and a 4.11 or 4.30 gearset.

The stock 9" by comparison has a gray iron case, 28 spline axels, and is meant to be a medium duty rear end in a truck or heavy car.

I would upgrade to a Stange race case, Daytona pinion support, 1350 yoke, and if needed replace the gears (always do gears as a set, there is no other option).

 

Well you could just grab one from a junk yard, plenty of them there since thats what they are. Seriously you can get a 3rd member with gears for $50-150 used.

 

i must not have read carefully enough, what part did he break, the pinion, the yoke, the diff case, the drive shaft or an axle???

 

Yes, you can get a junkyard drop out for $100 or so, but then you are back in the same position you are in now. Stock parts for use in a non-stock application, which will lead to the same failure you have already experienced. Also, most likely you won't get the gear ratio you want at a junkyard. 9"s are a dime a dozen with 2.73s and 3.08s. You might get lucky and find a truck with 3.55s, but that'll be about it. If you want 3.73s or 4.11s you'll be out of luck, and end up spending money on gears anyway, and possibly on having them set up if you can't do it yourself.

You know what you are doing with the car. Build the rear accordingly and you'll be a lot happier (and wealthier) in the long run.

 

I think I'm going to get a 3rd member from moser. When I bought the rear the guy told me that it had an auburn posi and 31 spline axles, I'll have to check before I order the new one. Anyway I've never taken one apart before so I was wondering if anyone has any links or advice on where to start. I take it you just pull the axles and then unbolt the center section?

 

Pull the d/s, pull the torque arm, pull the rear brakes, pull the axles out about 6", and then pull out the center diff. Be forewarned, it's pretty heavy (about 80 lbs). I would get a helper and a jack. Spend the extra money and get a good one, and be sure and count the splines inside your old center section before you order a new one, because it would suck if the guy lied to you on the spline count.

 

I know how to get the rear out. I was more concerned about how to get the axles out. Are there clips somewhere? How do they stay in?

 

There are no clips, the axles just pull out. Remove what is in the way(i.e. brakes, backing plates, etc), and pull them out.

 

sorry to kinda hijack the thread but i too destroyed my 9" which was a custom replacement and now im looking to getting a Moser but i read up there something about Nodular Iron case...would that be better or would the M/E Thru-bolt aluminum case (an option +$140) be better?

 

The nodular iron cases are stronger than the aluminum ones, even the thru-bolt ones. They thru-bolt the caps because they cannot get the same strength out of a tapped hole in aluminum that they can in cast iron. Stick with the nodular case. The aluminum ones are for race cars where weight is more important than strength. I'd go with the Strange Race Case in nodular iron. They are $350 from Summit.

 

Is there a cheaper place to get a 3rd member from? On moser's site they have them listed for 1,185. Does one of our sponsors sell them cheaper?

 

Ouch. New center section w/ 4.11 pro gears is $1,414 to my door.

 

I would try Randy's Ring & Pinion. www.ringpinion.com They will offer they best price.

Figure the race case is $350, $155 for gears, $150 for bearings, $350-$550 for a differential (posi-locker, depending on what you want), $100 for a yoke, $180 for a pinion support, & $10 for a seal & gasket. That's $1,285-$1,435 just in parts, assuming you could do the assembly yourself. Given that I don't think that $1,414 delivered is that bad depending on what you want. If you are getting a spool it will be cheaper. You could use stock parts and save some cash too, but most likely if you needed a 9" in the first place stock parts aren't going to be a good idea.

"Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?" Old addage, still true.

 

That's very true. That price was w/ a spool and the "pro" gears. What's the downfall to going w/ the standard gears?

 

The Pro Gears are probably a different heat treat and material to better cope with the shock loads of drag racing on slicks. If you street drive the car a lot you'd be better off with standard gears anyway. Pro gears might also be undercut to reduce weight.

 

the pro gears as I understand it are a different matl and treat>>But I dont think they are undercut could be wrong but...I thought it was a flatter cut to make them stronger..as in there is not as much taper on the accel side.. usually what causes them to be more whiny on accel than a standard gear..

 

I too am in the same stage. I am pretty sure i will go with spool, for 150, Nodular iron case, stock 31 spline axles(for now) new yoke(120), new drive shaft (400) and the Pro Gears. only downfall is getting the 5 x 4.5 ford wheels.,,,, wait, does a bronco axle have 4.5 spacing or 5x5. I haven't picked it up yet so i ain't sure...

 

Bronco should be 5 on 4.5" circle. Standard Ford and Jeep pattern. Just take the axels to a machine shop and get them to redrill the flanges for a Chevy pattern. It shouldn't be that expensive. Plenty of axels come double drilled anyway, so the practice is sound. You could even upgrade to screw in studs, but that's your call.

 

Can someone hosts pics?

 

here ya go.

 

I've never seen anything like that. It looks like the bolts for the pinion support came loose and then it beat itself to death. This is probably why race teams safety wire them.

 

check out www.quickperformance.com. im going to pick up my 9" from them this week