just curious as to if studding the bearing caps in the rear was a good idea if you already have a girdle with the pre-load bolts?

 

I prefer to do so. The stud kit is real cheap, like $20 or so, and easy to install, so it makes for a cheap upgrade and extra insurance. With this weenie little rear, anything you can do, is probably a good idea, if you have lots of power and also some traction.

 

where else can i pick one up besides mosier? thats the only place i have seen them.

 

TA Performance has them though you'll pay $25.95 + shipping, but if you get them with a girdle they give you a $6 discount.

I'm sure ARP could put together a set for you too if you called them with all the specs.

 

mosier has them for $25- i am sure they are arp bolts. something makes me think they (mosier) doesn't charge shipping- seems like when i ordered my axles- shipping was included in the price- but i could be wrong.

 

WTF?

i just called the local performance shop to see if they had any stud kits for the 10 bolt rear ends. the guy on the phone told me they didnt make a specific kit- but i could use the arp kit that is for the oil pump on a small block chevy!! does this sound right to anyone. i guess i could go home and grab one of the cap bolts and compare it at the shop when i go on saturday.

 

Dude, just get the TA Performance set. They will work, and there's no guesswork involved. A major part of their business is rear end stud kits and girdles.

I prefer to use the studs for two reasons. One, they add strength, and as RB said any little bit helps with a 7.625" 10-bolt. Two, you don't have to pull them every time you need to take the carrier out, like when you are setting up the gears and need to tear it down to swap pinion shims. Every tiem you install, torque, and remove a bolt it makes the threads in the housing a little sloppier. After maybe 10 times you probably aren't getting proper clamp anymore. This is one reason why race engine builders use studs in the mains and the heads. They know the engine will be preiodically torn down and refreshed, and in addition to providing better and more consistent clamping the studs prevent damage to the threads in the block, since they are rarely removed.

 

i got to thinking about that a little more- there is no way in hell that an oil pump bolt will work- at least work for more than 5 minutes any way- they are too darn short!! calling moser right now.