Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
#1
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Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
Hey guys,
I'm just wondering whats involved in swapping out a mechanical clutch linkage in my '83 Z28 to a hydraulic linkage out of an '84+.
Do I have to change the clutch pedal? Can I even do it on a Super T10 (factory '82 ST10 setup btw)?
I'm just wondering whats involved in swapping out a mechanical clutch linkage in my '83 Z28 to a hydraulic linkage out of an '84+.
Do I have to change the clutch pedal? Can I even do it on a Super T10 (factory '82 ST10 setup btw)?
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Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: vee eight
Transmission: auto
Axle/Gears: 4.10 gears
i dont think you can do that , i dont think the factory ever put a hydraulic setup for the t10 , btw im actually putting a t 10 in my 85 trans am .
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
The biggest obstacle will be finding a bellhousing to fit both the hydraulic slave, and the straight up-and-down mounting pattern of the T-10. The factory hydraulic BH's (84-up) were for the T-5s, and their mounting pattern is canted something like 17 degrees toward the driver.
I *think* Lakewood makes one that can be used, for about $300 US.
And, the master cylinder rod mounting point on the clutch pedal is different. I forget which one is which, but one system mounts to a hole (or stud) directly on the arm; the other to a tab that puts the mounting point about an inch or so closer to the firewall.
The hole for the pushrod needs to be enlarged a bit, and a couple new mounting holes drilled for the braces around the MC.
I *think* Lakewood makes one that can be used, for about $300 US.
And, the master cylinder rod mounting point on the clutch pedal is different. I forget which one is which, but one system mounts to a hole (or stud) directly on the arm; the other to a tab that puts the mounting point about an inch or so closer to the firewall.
The hole for the pushrod needs to be enlarged a bit, and a couple new mounting holes drilled for the braces around the MC.
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Car: clapped out 84Z
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The lakewood scattershield does have the dual bolt pattern. If you buy a new slave cylinder from GM, it comes as an entire assembly from the pedal to the slave cylinder, pre-bled. The one in my 84 has a stud that the linkage slides over and then retained with a clip. It is the same size as the stud for the brake master cylinder. You could remove one from an extra set of pedals, and drill a hole and mount it (weld) in the correct location on your existing pedals very easily. The stud is just pressed in the hole and mushroomed on the other side. Grind it down and it presses right out.
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Car: 1984 Camaro
Engine: 305 V8
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt / 3:27
Re: Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
So are the pedals different? I am swapping from a mechanical to the hydraulic clutch. I already have the correct bellhousing and all other parts.
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Car: Yes
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Re: Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
Yes the pedals are different.
It's pretty easy though... swap out the bell housing and pedal assy's, cut & drill a set of holes in the firewall, bolt it up, go. Not much of a challenge really.
I did that to my 83 in about 87 or so. AMAZING how much of an improvement the hyd system is over the mech. I highly recommend it.
It's pretty easy though... swap out the bell housing and pedal assy's, cut & drill a set of holes in the firewall, bolt it up, go. Not much of a challenge really.
I did that to my 83 in about 87 or so. AMAZING how much of an improvement the hyd system is over the mech. I highly recommend it.
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#8
Re: Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
The pedals are different.
It's a fairly easy swap. Mount the pedals and use the firewall braces to figure out where to drill the master mounting holes. For the master cylinder, the factory hole for the pushrod needs to be elongated down and to the left a tad (if looking at it from the engine compartment). I used a carbide burr on a die grinder. Grind a little bit and test fit the master...it doesn't take much to get it to fit.
It's a fairly easy swap. Mount the pedals and use the firewall braces to figure out where to drill the master mounting holes. For the master cylinder, the factory hole for the pushrod needs to be elongated down and to the left a tad (if looking at it from the engine compartment). I used a carbide burr on a die grinder. Grind a little bit and test fit the master...it doesn't take much to get it to fit.
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Car: Yes
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Transmission: Sometimes
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Re: Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
Good point there about the braces: they're "part of" the pedal assy, but for some reason, often get left off. They're VERY important though, as they keep the pedal pivot and the firewall (the MC) the right distance apart; without em, the firewall will bend SO FAR SO EASILY, that the MC will never get pushed enough to properly disengage the clutch.
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Car: 1984 Camaro
Engine: 305 V8
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt / 3:27
Re: Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
Ok thanks for all the great info everyone. This may be a straight-forward swap but I tell ya removing the pedals thus far has not been much fun.... tricky and hard to reach
#11
Re: Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
Good point there about the braces: they're "part of" the pedal assy, but for some reason, often get left off. They're VERY important though, as they keep the pedal pivot and the firewall (the MC) the right distance apart; without em, the firewall will bend SO FAR SO EASILY, that the MC will never get pushed enough to properly disengage the clutch.
If you haven't already, pull the drivers seat out. Getting the car up high enough so you can kneel on the ground or sit on a stool and work under there also helps. Some long extensions to get the booster bolts. Don't forget about the bolt going from the bottom up into the dash for the bracket.
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Car: 1984 Camaro
Engine: 305 V8
Transmission: Borg Warner T5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt / 3:27
Re: Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
With a bit of patience, some wobble extensions and a few regular extensions, and some colourful language, I was able to get the old pedals out and the new ones in. After all that, it was very straight forward. The braces for the master cylinder lined right up to some holes already in the firewall I just enlarged them a little. Still have to grind the opening up a little but I foresee no further problems. Thanks everyone!
#13
Re: Manual to Hydraulic Clutch Linkage?
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