I have a question about high stall torque converts for you guys. I have read a little about the subject but I can not get the info that I am looking for. Before I start I want to let you know that my intentions for the car is for street and some strip use. Look at my signature for my set up; however right now I am debating on swapping my cam for a cam that has a higher rpm range. Now my question about high stall converter is will the high stall decease my gas mileage? And is a high stall practical on the street? By this I mean when you’re at a red light (just driving not racing) and the light turns green and you step on the gas (not aggressively remember your just driving!!) will you start moving immediately or will the engine rev up before catching? If the engine revs up before catching this would seem to use more fuel. Another question is if you have a stall of lets say 3000 and your driving on the road or highway and your engine speed is at 2200 or so is the converter slipping the entire time, and does it continue to slip until the engine speed is at 3000? If this is true then it would make sense to buy a high stall with a lock up function. Well if you guys could please give me some feed back on this I would really appreciate it. Thanks

 

Another thing i forgot to add in your other thread...

Grab a lockup conveter and use an aftermarket controller or use a toggle switch to engage the TCC while your cruising.

 

If I do get a high stall I will get a lock up and I like the idea of having a togle switch for it. One more thing on the togle switch do I keep it locked all the time when Im driving or only when Im up to speed? And to tell you the truth I dont know what an aftermarket controller is, I am guessing that it controls the converter!! And if it does control the lock up of the converter when does it lock it up? Well thanks again for you input!

 

It depends on how you wire up the TCC toggle switch to when it locks. If you do it through the computer i believe it will not lock till 2nd gear but it can be wired to have direct control of the clutch, in which case you would have to remember to switch it off when your stopping.

Theirs quite a few different aftermarket systems out there, some run off of manifold pressure and tach signals, some use a VSS and manifold pressure. I cannot remember who makes it but their is one out there that lets you control what speed it locks at and is changable by a dial on the front of the unit.

 

That sounds great Im going to have to do some research on that, most likely I will forget to unlock it when coming to stops and would get kind of old after a wile. Now I am also assuming that when you want to use you stall the system knows that and lets engine run up and so on so ...... you know the rest of the story! One other thing I have hear people talk about is locking your converter when there racing (in the middle of the race). Do these controlers do the same thing, after the launch of course!!!

 

I to have a 91 Z28 T-tops but she only has the stock 305 (just refreshed with new rings, bearings, gaskets and seals), rebuilt 700R4, corvette servo and .500 boost valve. I had the torque convertor rebuilt and it came back with H/D inards and a 2800 stall. I have been driving her for a few weeks now and finally last week got all the bugs out. She drives pretty good on the surface streets when keeping my foot out of it. But I've also noticed that if I'm cruzin the surface streets she likes to shift back and forth from OD to D frequently. But if you kick her in the pants the rear tires break loose instantly and she shifts normally. But let me know how the lock up switch works for you because I'm not liking the way it's shifting so much in the lower RPM's. The tach has not worked since I bought the car last year. It has the stock cam, stock rear unknown what size. I do know that when driving the surface streets and cruzing it favors D more than OD.

 

The lockup isnt going to get rid of your gear jogging (not that i know of) just going to reduce the slipping in the TC giving lower temps and better gas mileage.

 

Thats cool that you got your self a 91 z28!! My car was origanally a 305 too, but when I got it, it had a 350 and it needed a rebuild pretty badly!! Well I will let you know if I do get the controler system for my car, right now the motor is still sitting in the garage unassembled!! I am hoping that the car will be running by the middle of jan!! But I will let you know what I do with my converter choice!!

 

To reply what you said, 84z28350, thats good that a lock up will get me better gas milage and lower temps!! Well now I know that I may face the problem of gear jogging; so should I get a new "Wide Open Throttle 3-4 Upshift Kits" to keep that from happening? Or will that not work because the trany really isnt down shifting, its changing from over drive to drive. But anyways would it still fix the problem?

 

i dont know about tcc toggle switches and all that....

i got a 2800 stall with lockup for my 700r4, from edge racing and once u get over 40mph in overdrive and part throttle, it locks up... u can hear/see/feel it lock up.. u'll be in overdrive doing 2500 rpms and doing like 30mph.. still slowly accelerating, and once u hit 40mph or so, it drops like it shifted again down to 1200-1300rpms or whatever it is.

down shift to 3rd, it unlocks and rpms go up. punch it in overdrive and it flashes and goes!!

i know guys with 4000rpm converters without lockup and they are fine on the street.

but i do reccomend lockup. its a nice feature for a street car.

 

Wire your TCC power from your stoplight switch. Most all late model SLS'S have a circuit to disengage the TCC when the brakes are applied. I have somewhere in my collection of parts a GM vacuum switch that would turn on or off the TCC circuit based on engine vacuum. Bought it new & never used it.

My 700R4 was wired internally to lockup right after the 3-4 shift. These kits are available from several sources, Transmission Center.net, Painless, B&M, etc. This would be another option.