Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

What does a bad torque converter do?

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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 09:24 PM
  #1  
91ChevyRS's Avatar
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
What does a bad torque converter do?

Can it cause slipping in between gears, or slow shifts?
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 09:40 PM
  #2  
2-toneTA's Avatar
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From: evansville/summitville IN
Car: currently a 99 sable, and an infamous 98 4.3L 5sp S10
Engine: 220+4.3L, and a 200hp 3.0L
Transmission: 5sp nv3500, and an axn4 AT
I always associated hard/late shifts with a torque converter going bad. I am not sure if it can go both ways though
Andrew
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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AlkyIROC's Avatar
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
The torque converter is a fluid coupling. It transfers torque from the engine to the transmission. If the transmission has problems shifting then it's not a torque converter problem. You either have low fluid pressure from any number of reasons or bad bands/clutches.

I hurt my torque converter a few years ago. The car wasn't quite running right. 1/4 mile times were off so I yanked out the converter and had it inspected. One of the torrington bearings inside had been crushed. Since the tollerances were close, the decreased thickness of the bearing caused some of the fins to be bent. It didn't cost much to get it repaired but if you have a cheaper street converter, it can be cheaper to just buy another converter. My race converter is about $1000 so it's worth it to rebuild.

To inspect a converter, they put it on a special lathe and cut it open. When it's rebuilt, they weld it back up. The downside of my converter is that there isn't much metal left around the center to weld it up again. If my converter fails again, it's garbage. I can get a custom one built locally which would be better than the one I bought for about $800. It would ba able to take a lot more abuse and I'd know exactly what parts went into it. Not all internal parts are the same.
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 10:29 PM
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91ChevyRS's Avatar
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
well what I want to know is why the car shifts just fine under normal driving conditions. Normal being very smooth acceleration from a dead stop.

Tranny shifts fine, its only when I gun it that it starts acting up and slipping like hell
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 10:40 PM
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
sounds like the clutches are going and it'll be rebuild time soon. also the 700R4 cable could be mis-adjusted as well.
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Old Jan 19, 2006 | 08:14 PM
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AlkyIROC's Avatar
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Pull the pan off and see what's in the bottom.
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 07:53 PM
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From: GA
Car: '90 C1500
Engine: SBC MPFI
Transmission: 4L80e
Axle/Gears: 4.30
Just curious...what would be in the bottom of the pan?
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Metal or pieces of friction material. If the oil is very metallic then you know there's a major failure somewhere.

You can only guess so much. Without pulling it apart for inspection, you'll never know what's wrong. It's not going to fix itself and there's no such thing as a "transmission repair in a can".
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 10:59 AM
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
It's not going to fix itself and there's no such thing as a "transmission repair in a can".

statement of the year. i couldn't agree more.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 04:44 PM
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92MaroRS's Avatar
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25th Aniversarry Edition
Engine: 305
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.23's and SLP Posi.
Originally posted by mystikkal_69
statement of the year. i couldn't agree more.
What if you put a Transmission rebuild kit in a really big can?
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 05:06 PM
  #11  
Tobias05's Avatar
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From: any clime or place...
Car: 1987 Camaro SC, 1999 Z28
Engine: GMPP 350HO, LS1
Transmission: Built 700r4/EDGE 3200, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton 7.625, 3.42 Zexel Torsen
I would start w/ the TV cable myself...maybe buy a new GM replacement and go from there if you're has a lot of miles on it.

Adjusting my TV stopped the "flare up"...though I'd feel better if I had a brand new one to use...
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 07:30 PM
  #12  
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From: Greenwood, Indiana
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: Vortec 355
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: GM Axles and GM 3.73
if u do replace the TV cable DEFINATELY go through GM....i got a replacement from pep boys and it was too short and wouldnt bend nearly as much as the GM replacement parts one.....and the cost difference was only a couple bucks.....
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 12:27 AM
  #13  
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
Originally posted by 92MaroRS
What if you put a Transmission rebuild kit in a really big can?

well that's still half of what you need. that's actually the cheap part. labor is what will get ya...


i should know, i've done a "few".
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 06:44 AM
  #14  
92MaroRS's Avatar
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Car: 1992 Camaro RS 25th Aniversarry Edition
Engine: 305
Transmission: TH-700-R4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.23's and SLP Posi.
Originally posted by mystikkal_69
well that's still half of what you need. that's actually the cheap part. labor is what will get ya...


i should know, i've done a "few".
Ok, fine, how about a REALLY big can with a Tranny Rebuild Kit and a Transmission Tech in it?
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 10:20 AM
  #15  
mystikkal_69's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: L98 (350 TPI)
Transmission: MD8 (700 R4) + 3.42 LS1 Rear
now that would work!!!
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 03:01 PM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Not sure if this will help but read this about having a sprag fail in a converter.

http://img490.imageshack.us/my.php?i...sssheet7ii.jpg
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Old Jan 28, 2006 | 05:35 PM
  #17  
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From: Browns Town
Car: 86 Monte SS (730,$8D,G3,AP,4K,S_V4)
Engine: 406 Hyd Roller 236/242
Transmission: 700R4 HomeBrew, 2.4K stall
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Posi, 7.5 Soon to break
Since its kinda on the topic I'll throw this out there.
I've had my car for 3 years and never had the converter out until today. It always allowed me to foot brake it to around 2200 RPM and "seemed" to flash a bit higher. Car lives at 2K and higher no matter what you do with the TV. even reset to pressure specs.
I was suprised to see the sticker on the back of it with DGCF 8653423 on it.
this I believe is a stock LU converter with aprox 1300 stall. I know the lockup has been beat to death on it by my experimenting with it and am wondering if the elevated stall speed is a sign of internal damage. Already bought a new actual 2K unit so I don't care if it is broke.
Any comments?
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