Driveshaft Replacement Steps?
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,168
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From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
Driveshaft Replacement Steps?
Anybody got a link or resource for doing this showing the steps? I tried a search but now fear it's so easy that this is actually a stupid question.
Chilton manual?
Chilton manual?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,168
Likes: 3
From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
OK... good ole Google Search.
http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=58
Does this accurately describe the process? I noticed the warning about the shaft falling on your face...
http://www.fbody.com/tech/details.cgi?id=58
Does this accurately describe the process? I noticed the warning about the shaft falling on your face...
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
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From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
It is really easy. You don't even have to put the car up in the air (jack stands or a lift) if you're flexible enough.
Unbolt the 4 bolts on the rear yolk (the y thing that comes out of the rear differential). I believe they’re 10mm. You might need a pry bar or a big screwdriver to get the DS out of the yoke after the bolts are out. After the rear of the DS is free simply drop it and pull it off the transmission. The whole processes can be done in less than 30 seconds with an air wrench.
Edit: yeah, that link works too
Unbolt the 4 bolts on the rear yolk (the y thing that comes out of the rear differential). I believe they’re 10mm. You might need a pry bar or a big screwdriver to get the DS out of the yoke after the bolts are out. After the rear of the DS is free simply drop it and pull it off the transmission. The whole processes can be done in less than 30 seconds with an air wrench.
Edit: yeah, that link works too
Last edited by Gummie; Feb 6, 2006 at 01:35 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Kingston, NH
Car: 2004 Wrangler Rubicon
Engine: 4.0
Transmission: NV3550
Axle/Gears: Dana 44s with 4.10 and air lockers
You don't need to put it in gear to keep the driveshaft from turning. Grab a long screwdriver, pry bar, wrench, whatever and put it through the spaces in the yoke (you'll understand when you get under there). Turn the driveshaft counter clockwise until the holding apparatus hits the torque arm. That will keep it from turning while you break the bolts free.
Not sure if all will agree, but before you yank the DS out, mark its location to the yoke with a punch or (your choice here) so that you instal the shaft the same way it came out. Might have something to do with DS vibration.
Any comments guys
-Andrew
Any comments guys
-Andrew
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,149
Likes: 1
From: Gladstone, Missouri
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0L TBI (ebl inside)
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 lsd 10 bolt
Originally posted by kaptinkafeen
Not sure if all will agree, but before you yank the DS out, mark its location to the yoke with a punch or (your choice here) so that you instal the shaft the same way it came out. Might have something to do with DS vibration.
Any comments guys
-Andrew
Not sure if all will agree, but before you yank the DS out, mark its location to the yoke with a punch or (your choice here) so that you instal the shaft the same way it came out. Might have something to do with DS vibration.
Any comments guys
-Andrew
Think of it this way: Are you the first to pull the ds? If the first person didn't mark it how would it matter? Did the factory have special ds placement in relation to the pinion yoke?
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by guza
The drive shaft is balanced outside of the drive train. Why would it make a difference which way it was installed? [/QUOTE
You can write GM and ask for us
- In their shop manual they make it quite clear that the position of the DS should be recorded before you yank it out....
This is why I said some will question the step.
-Andrew
The drive shaft is balanced outside of the drive train. Why would it make a difference which way it was installed? [/QUOTE
You can write GM and ask for us
This is why I said some will question the step.-Andrew
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
[QUOTE]Originally posted by kaptinkafeen
this is a "just in case" step for when the tolances are at the extreme ends for both, and one way cancels them out (aka the guy is driving around without a problem) but the other way would make a vibration (aka customer comes back and complains)
so just in case, they put it back the same way it came out.
you shouldnt have to worry about it.
if it does happen you have 2 choices.
Originally posted by guza
The drive shaft is balanced outside of the drive train. Why would it make a difference which way it was installed? [/QUOTE
You can write GM and ask for us
- In their shop manual they make it quite clear that the position of the DS should be recorded before you yank it out....
This is why I said some will question the step.
-Andrew
The drive shaft is balanced outside of the drive train. Why would it make a difference which way it was installed? [/QUOTE
You can write GM and ask for us
This is why I said some will question the step.-Andrew
so just in case, they put it back the same way it came out.
you shouldnt have to worry about it.
if it does happen you have 2 choices.
- rotate the DS 180*
- do the right thing and have the DS balanced or replace it with one that is properly balanced
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