Do I have to take the rear springs out just to get the torque arm out for my t-5 swap?? Why the heck didn't anyone bother to mention this in their how to guides??

 

-Because you don't have to remove the rear springs in order to remove the torque arm. Your best bet is to use at least two stands under the rear frame, and use a hyd. jack to support the rear pumpkin. Remove the long rear bolts on the rear of the arm, and jack the rear up or down until the arm slides right off the rear.

You'll figure it out from there. I've probably removed my torque arm 10 times (no kidding) - and I've NEVER had to remove the rear springs.

 

Do I have to place a piece of wood between the floor pan and the arm to keep the arm from slamming into the floor pan? As soon as the arm is unbolted from the tranny does it just all of a sudden fly out towards the floor pan?

 

It will want to move up a bit, but, it shouldn't slam up. I have found it easier to always remove the arm from the rear first, then the trans mount second. When you re-install, you do the rear last. That way you can tilt the rear to get the arm to align with the holes. Not a hard job at all. As Confused1 stated, two stands under the car will suffice.

 

Can I ask why you all are unbolting it from the rear? I've never had to do that. I just unbolt it from the tranny and let it slide up toward the floor. Then just pull it down when i need to connect it to the new tranny. Its not like it flys up with great force.

 

are u saying to just unbolt it at the tranny and mess with the springs and rear? Did you put a piece of wood between the floor pans and the torque arm?

 

I'm not saying you HAVE to unbolt it from the rear first...I've just found it easier to start with the rear bolts first.

I just remove the nuts from the long bolts in the rear first, then I can jack up or down on the pumpkin until any stress is taken off the arm....you'll know because the bolts will slip out easy when the rear is at the right level.

If there's still tension on it, the bolts won't want to come out. Just re-adjust your jack up/down till the bolts slide out easy, then slide the rear of the arm off the rear end. That way the arm is not trying to slam up or down.

- Then I just slide the front of the arm out of the mount (I just loosen the bolts on the bracket first).

Yeah, there's more than one way to "skin a cat"....it's just the way I do it - and it doesn't involve removing any springs....hope that helps, and good luck!!

 

Never had to use a piece of wood. When I loosen it, I guide it up with my hand and it never slams into the floor.

How are you all supporting the car? I always have the back two jackstands underneath the rear axle so that the springs stay compressed. Maybe thats why???

 

If I have to remove the torque arm, I'll have the rear of the car in the air on jackstands with the stands right in front of the lower control arms.
I then remove the nuts from the 2 long bolts that hold the T/A to the pumpkin and pull the bolts out and push the torque arm to the side and pull it out.

and I install it in the reverse order.

If you support the rear of the car by the axle, you have very little space to pull the long T/A bolts out since they most likely will hit the top of the trans tunnel before they clear the pumpkin.

 

Maybe I'm reading it wrong. But he is just doing a t5 swap so why would he need to remove the entire torque arm?

I was just saying that you can just remove the tranny end only to get the tranny out. There is no need to remove the entire torque arm.

 

He could, but he sounds like one of those guys that needs step by step instructions on how to do everything.