clutch engagement T56
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Car: '87 Firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
clutch engagement T56
Hello;
I just performed a t56 conversion in my firebird and i have a question. I have to release the clutch pedal almost ALL the way in order for the clutch to engage. I am using third gen pedals so i was wondering if the stud for the clutch m/c rod is too high or something. Any other way to adjust so that clutch engages closer to the floor?
-Kyle
ps: clutch itself as well as everything else is pretty much brand new so its not a case of a worn out clutch.
I just performed a t56 conversion in my firebird and i have a question. I have to release the clutch pedal almost ALL the way in order for the clutch to engage. I am using third gen pedals so i was wondering if the stud for the clutch m/c rod is too high or something. Any other way to adjust so that clutch engages closer to the floor?
-Kyle
ps: clutch itself as well as everything else is pretty much brand new so its not a case of a worn out clutch.
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Car: '87 Firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Actually the flywheel is a brand new unit. I've never heard of needing shims after turning a flywheel. hmmm.
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
Originally Posted by 87T-TopBird
Hello;
I I have to release the clutch pedal almost ALL the way in order for the clutch to engage.
I I have to release the clutch pedal almost ALL the way in order for the clutch to engage.
You can't adjust a hydraulic like you can a mechanical. You could get an adjustable pivot ball and tuck it in tighter so the clutch fork would start to engage later. Not sure if it will work though. The hydraulic is kind of self adjusting.
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Car: projects.......
- SHIMS?????? if the flywheel has been properly resurfaced, then the entire surface is "X" lower, so the pressure plate and disc are still at the same height from the surface.....
- with a push-type hyd clutch you could shorten the slave actuator rod, thus making it engage quicker. You sure you have the correct TO bearing and that it's installed right?
...I have been reminded of yet another reason I like my mechanical clutch....
- with a push-type hyd clutch you could shorten the slave actuator rod, thus making it engage quicker. You sure you have the correct TO bearing and that it's installed right?
...I have been reminded of yet another reason I like my mechanical clutch....
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Car: '87 Firebird
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
As far as the correct pieces, yes, i have the proper throwout bearing, pilot bearing etc. I am however using third gen pedels with a hydraulic system meant for fourth gen pedels. I wonder if the spot on the clutch pedel where the m/c rod goes onto is lower or something.
I've been doing some research and it seems a number of people seem to have high clutch engagement with these things. Can I do something like shortening the m/c rod so that the clutch pedal is closer to the floor when it engages?
-Kyle
I've been doing some research and it seems a number of people seem to have high clutch engagement with these things. Can I do something like shortening the m/c rod so that the clutch pedal is closer to the floor when it engages?
-Kyle
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
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Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Originally Posted by 87T-TopBird
As far as the correct pieces, yes, i have the proper throwout bearing, pilot bearing etc. I am however using third gen pedels with a hydraulic system meant for fourth gen pedels. I wonder if the spot on the clutch pedel where the m/c rod goes onto is lower or something.
I've been doing some research and it seems a number of people seem to have high clutch engagement with these things. Can I do something like shortening the m/c rod so that the clutch pedal is closer to the floor when it engages?
-Kyle
I've been doing some research and it seems a number of people seem to have high clutch engagement with these things. Can I do something like shortening the m/c rod so that the clutch pedal is closer to the floor when it engages?
-Kyle
How much preload should the slave cyl have on the clutch fork? I wonder if thats the problem...
-- Joe
#10
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Car: 2004 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
I have the same issue with mine as well. Iam using 3rd gen pedals & a new M/C assy. I have also used 3 different clutch sets and they all engage the same. I am wondering about going to 4th gen pedals to see but not really sure.
Chris
Chris
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The problem is, the stud on the 3rd gen pedal is farther from the pivot, so it moves ALOT farther than the 4th gen stud. You move the master cyl through its entire design range of travel, with MUCH less motion of the pedal.
You'll also find, it's harder to push, than the same setup would be in a 4th gen.
If you put another stud in your pedal, about ¾" - 1" closer to the pivot, it should come out about right.
Mine is the same way; but it doesn't bother me enough to actually do any WORK or anything radical like that.
You'll also find, it's harder to push, than the same setup would be in a 4th gen.
If you put another stud in your pedal, about ¾" - 1" closer to the pivot, it should come out about right.
Mine is the same way; but it doesn't bother me enough to actually do any WORK or anything radical like that.
#12
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Car: 2004 Corvette
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the other thing in the 4th gen is that the pedal are closer together. The clutch pedal is not all the way up to the dash like the 3rd gen's. That would be a plus in my book.
Last edited by cwalsh; 07-10-2006 at 10:16 PM.
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Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 5.7L Supercharged
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70
Originally Posted by Shagwell
- with a push-type hyd clutch you could shorten the slave actuator rod, thus making it engage quicker. You sure you have the correct TO bearing and that it's installed right?
...I have been reminded of yet another reason I like my mechanical clutch....
...I have been reminded of yet another reason I like my mechanical clutch....
How far up is your guys clutch pedal from the break cause they really should be side by side? What I did was made my master cylinder adjustable, just look me up for how I did this in the past.
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Car: 2004 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally Posted by Tony89GTA
Cuting up the slave rod is not going to do anything you could have a foot long rod and it would function the same plus you run the risk of blowing out your slave.
How far up is your guys clutch pedal from the break cause they really should be side by side? What I did was made my master cylinder adjustable, just look me up for how I did this in the past.
How far up is your guys clutch pedal from the break cause they really should be side by side? What I did was made my master cylinder adjustable, just look me up for how I did this in the past.
I found your photo, looks pretty good. I would not mind doing that but but it is a royal pain to get to the master to get out. Wouldn't be easier to just switch to 4th gen LT1 pedals???
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