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clutch engagement T56

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Old 03-11-2006, 04:06 PM
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Car: '87 Firebird
Engine: L98
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clutch engagement T56

Hello;

I just performed a t56 conversion in my firebird and i have a question. I have to release the clutch pedal almost ALL the way in order for the clutch to engage. I am using third gen pedals so i was wondering if the stud for the clutch m/c rod is too high or something. Any other way to adjust so that clutch engages closer to the floor?

-Kyle

ps: clutch itself as well as everything else is pretty much brand new so its not a case of a worn out clutch.
Old 03-20-2006, 07:08 PM
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Car: '87 Firebird
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Has anyone experienced these symptoms before?
Old 03-21-2006, 06:49 AM
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did u have the flywheel turned. if so you might needthe shimms they make. i need to get some for mine also
Old 03-21-2006, 09:18 AM
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Actually the flywheel is a brand new unit. I've never heard of needing shims after turning a flywheel. hmmm.
Old 03-21-2006, 02:28 PM
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yeah i guess from what i have been told that there is issues after the flywheel has been turned. they sell shims to compencate for it
Old 03-21-2006, 02:38 PM
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
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Originally Posted by 87T-TopBird
Hello;

I I have to release the clutch pedal almost ALL the way in order for the clutch to engage.
You are supposed to have approx 1" of travel from when you first put your foot on the clutch, to when it engages.

You can't adjust a hydraulic like you can a mechanical. You could get an adjustable pivot ball and tuck it in tighter so the clutch fork would start to engage later. Not sure if it will work though. The hydraulic is kind of self adjusting.
Old 03-21-2006, 05:28 PM
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Car: projects.......
- SHIMS?????? if the flywheel has been properly resurfaced, then the entire surface is "X" lower, so the pressure plate and disc are still at the same height from the surface.....
- with a push-type hyd clutch you could shorten the slave actuator rod, thus making it engage quicker. You sure you have the correct TO bearing and that it's installed right?

...I have been reminded of yet another reason I like my mechanical clutch....
Old 03-21-2006, 08:01 PM
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As far as the correct pieces, yes, i have the proper throwout bearing, pilot bearing etc. I am however using third gen pedels with a hydraulic system meant for fourth gen pedels. I wonder if the spot on the clutch pedel where the m/c rod goes onto is lower or something.

I've been doing some research and it seems a number of people seem to have high clutch engagement with these things. Can I do something like shortening the m/c rod so that the clutch pedal is closer to the floor when it engages?

-Kyle
Old 03-30-2006, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 87T-TopBird
As far as the correct pieces, yes, i have the proper throwout bearing, pilot bearing etc. I am however using third gen pedels with a hydraulic system meant for fourth gen pedels. I wonder if the spot on the clutch pedel where the m/c rod goes onto is lower or something.

I've been doing some research and it seems a number of people seem to have high clutch engagement with these things. Can I do something like shortening the m/c rod so that the clutch pedal is closer to the floor when it engages?

-Kyle
Im having the exact same problem with my new centerforce. Thing grabs way up top.

How much preload should the slave cyl have on the clutch fork? I wonder if thats the problem...

-- Joe
Old 07-09-2006, 12:01 PM
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I have the same issue with mine as well. Iam using 3rd gen pedals & a new M/C assy. I have also used 3 different clutch sets and they all engage the same. I am wondering about going to 4th gen pedals to see but not really sure.

Chris
Old 07-09-2006, 05:05 PM
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The problem is, the stud on the 3rd gen pedal is farther from the pivot, so it moves ALOT farther than the 4th gen stud. You move the master cyl through its entire design range of travel, with MUCH less motion of the pedal.

You'll also find, it's harder to push, than the same setup would be in a 4th gen.

If you put another stud in your pedal, about ¾" - 1" closer to the pivot, it should come out about right.

Mine is the same way; but it doesn't bother me enough to actually do any WORK or anything radical like that.
Old 07-10-2006, 06:17 AM
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the other thing in the 4th gen is that the pedal are closer together. The clutch pedal is not all the way up to the dash like the 3rd gen's. That would be a plus in my book.

Last edited by cwalsh; 07-10-2006 at 10:16 PM.
Old 07-10-2006, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Shagwell
- with a push-type hyd clutch you could shorten the slave actuator rod, thus making it engage quicker. You sure you have the correct TO bearing and that it's installed right?

...I have been reminded of yet another reason I like my mechanical clutch....
Cuting up the slave rod is not going to do anything you could have a foot long rod and it would function the same plus you run the risk of blowing out your slave.

How far up is your guys clutch pedal from the break cause they really should be side by side? What I did was made my master cylinder adjustable, just look me up for how I did this in the past.
Old 07-10-2006, 10:17 PM
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I am guessing about 2-3" higher than the brake
Old 07-10-2006, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony89GTA
Cuting up the slave rod is not going to do anything you could have a foot long rod and it would function the same plus you run the risk of blowing out your slave.

How far up is your guys clutch pedal from the break cause they really should be side by side? What I did was made my master cylinder adjustable, just look me up for how I did this in the past.

I found your photo, looks pretty good. I would not mind doing that but but it is a royal pain to get to the master to get out. Wouldn't be easier to just switch to 4th gen LT1 pedals???
Old 07-11-2006, 12:22 PM
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For what it's worth, I recall the current T-5 article in Car Craft says the LT4 T-56 engagement travel is very short.
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