I recently changed my rear gears and due to the fact I didn't have a proper pinion nut torque wrench im not entirly sure its torqued right. I think I may have overdone it some but im not sure. What will happen if the pinion nut is a little tight, will I destroy the rearend, or will the pinion bearings just wear out faster? I drove several 5 mile trips today part city part highway and felt the rear end to see how warm it was, ive never actually felt it after driving it before so im not sure how warm is normal, it felt like it was about 100-110deg, is this normal or is this excessivly hot for a short trip?

 

The differential will get very hot during normal driving, this is part of the reason why the gear oil is so thick. As far as the pinion nut, if it is too tight then you will see some premature bearing failure. The best way I have found to check the pinion play is to tighten the nut until there is just a slight amout of resistance when you rotate it. If you think you might want to loosen the pinion nut, the only "special" tool you will need is an in/lb torque wrench to check the preload. There are different values for new and used bearings though. I have seen them posted but I can't remember what they are.

 

ya i cant seem to find an inlb one that reads low enough around here, any suggestions where to find one?

 

ebay, snap on, mac, matco, proto, damn near anyone making quality tools sells an in/lb wrench with a dial.

 

I couldn't find one either. I tried to use a click style one, but that was a PITA. I figured out that once it's tight enough to have no play at all, and have very little resistance turning it, you're set.

you set up backlash right and all that?

my dad (master of all old farmer tricks) told me that when you feel your dust cap on your trailer (i'm guessing same goes for vehicle) and it's hot, that means your bearings are shot (or set up wrong). I wouldn't think your diff oil gets that hot.... Can anyone else confirm or deny that?

 

Yes backlash and mesh pattern looked okay. Could I just jack it up drop the driveshaft and loosen it up, I distinctly remember at 235ft lbs the bearings were tight and it had a good amount of resistance? I dont have to change anything do I just jack it up and loosen it up to the correct preload. I really dont feel like removing the carrier again.

 

nope, the crush sleeve is already crushed, you have to replace it. your call.
(ps, I used a ratech 4111, solid pinion spacer, you just swap shims until it's the right preload, adds strength too.)

 

If you've over tightened on a crush sleeve, you need a new one. - I usually set by feel also, but I do have a craftsman 1/4 drive inlb torque wrench.
- Yes, diffs get warm. I've seen as high as 250 on a temp gun, but our BBC blower motors are hard on stuff.... Usual seems to be around 100-125....

- hummm, I just did my dana under my 4wd toy and it takes over 300ftlbs to crush the crush sleeve....