Im wondering what clutches you guys are running in your swap.

I have the stock lt1 Clutch at 6000miles and im pretty sure its not good enough/ slipping. heres a description, when i first got the car going and clutch broke in it would go sideways into 2nd and chirp 3rd hard, now im lucky if i get a lite chirp into 2nd.

What would you guys recommend me running with the engine in my sig.?
thanx.

 

there are alot of people running the centerforce dual friction setup. I have heard mixed thoughts on this clutch. I personally use a mcleod setup and I love it. I have beat the living garbage out of this thing and it still feels like it did the day I put it in. My setup cost about $350.00 for the clutch and pressure plate. If you want to get crazy, you can go with the dual clutch setup from mcleod. This is for hardcore horsepower but you WON'T break it. Of course, the $1300.00 price tag might be a little steep.

 

anyone else running a t56. im sure theres more than one.

 

?

 

i've heard some people talk bad about the centerforce dual friction clutch, BUT THATS WHAT I'M USING and it works great. the clutch grips really good and I didn't have any of the problems that the other people were descibing.

I've heard really good reviews about Mcleod and the spec stage 3 or higher

 

i was lookin at spec 2+ i heard its the bomb diggity lol

 

We ran a Spec 3 on a YStrim vortech blown SS dyno ing around 700RWHP and it held up well.

From my experiences with the T56, you CANNOT re surface the flywheel!! Every thousands taken off the flywheel is that much less pressure you have for your new clutch. I found out this the hardway after going through three clutches in a matter of months using the same flywheel.

After purchasing the fourth clutch from spec with a new flywheel to boot, I had no more problems with it.

 

Another vote from spec. I installed a stage 3 with my T-56. It engages a bit rough as compared to stock but there isn't a ton of pedal effort involved and it's pretty easy to drive. Defiantly streetable (this is my daily driver). They’ve got a ton of holding power as well.

 

damn no resurfacing the flywheel huh... i did once with this clutch might be part of the problem. damn, this flywheel is gonna cost some cash because i have a 2piece rear.

 

- Not buying it. A crappy pressure plate/disc can cause problems of not holding, but not a properly surfaced flywheel. The entire flywheel is .0X further from the trans than before, but the distance between the pressure plate and the flywheel remains the same. Therefore the clamping force is still the same.
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...as far as clutches goes, I like my Hays, but a regular hyd clutch won't even attempt to open my pressure plate....

 

Spec 3 clutch.

The Centerforce relies on it's counter weights to add clamping force at high rpm, and doesn't work so well when the ways pull out the same way the clutch disengages. (as native with the pull style LT1 Clutch)

Alot of the 4th gen guys hate the dual friction, and love the spec 3. I love MY spec 3.

 

hmmm well how many times can you resurface a flywheel?

 

bump

 

you can resurface it until it get too thin. Any good shop doing re-surface work can mic it and check thickness. Once it gets to thin, then you need a new one.

 

roger that, thanks i think im gonna get a stage 2 spec.

 

spec 3 here. rough engagement, but easy pedal. love it.

besides my driving style is more like this

 

I was having a blast doing that yesterday. It's nice to have a clutch that can grab hard but not be overly harsh when you don't want it to be.

 

so should i get stage 3 over stage 2? or get the stage 2+? you see my set up,i go to the track when i can probably 4-5 times a year when i get time. i also plan on upgrading somewhere down the line to larger cubes or different setup.

 

Check the holding ratings on the two clutches. Odds are that the 2+ is comparable to the 3 in that regard. The 3 will be a harsher engager though. I know the stage 3+ is comparable to the stage 4 in terms of holding power but again, the stage 4 is a clutch that's designed more for racing. At this point I would say to give the company a call and see what they say. That way you're getting it straight from the horse's mouth.

 

i had a centerforce duel in my old set up and when i went with the 383 i switched to a mcleod set up. i didnt like the DF but alot of guys say that i didnt break the clutch in right and thats maybe why i didnt like it

 

Hey guys,

Does anyone know the part #'s for the McLeod spec 2 or 3. What are the dimensions I need for 74 350 with Lt1. Thanks

 

email mcleod technical at. etech@mcleodind.com