im rebuilding my 10 bolt with a auburn posi. Everything is out.
Here is the problem; pinion bearing races...
The Inner (large) pinion bearing race came out without much difficulty. Although it was incredibly tight, an air hammer with an appropriate punch got it out. Now the install of the new races. The outer (small) race went in flush very easily. The Inner is an absolute nightmare. I've been working on it for 8 hours today with no success. heres what ive tried.

1.tapping it in with a hammer.

2. A press made out of a steering wheel puller with a plate on the new race and a plate on the end of the outer pinion (outside the diff) locked one end with a wrench and spun the other end. it got too tight to turn and it didnt pull the race in at all.

3.(This one is ridiculous btw) I Created a tool with a hockey puck that sat flush inside the new race, with the old race sitting flush on the new one over top of the puck inside the diff. It has a hole drilled through the middle of the puck. A long bolt goes through the middle locked on the driveshaft side of the diff with a nut. It has a 5 inch long piece of metal 1 inch thick across the old race on the inside for even pressure threaded to the bolt that goes through the hockey puck. The head of the bolt is on the inside of the diff. I through a socket on the bolt. Put a 5 foot extension on it and hit in with a 3 pound sledge and it went nowhere.

after the last one i tried you'd think i would have gave up but i tried more things.

i decided to pop the inner race back out to inspect it for damage. It's good. But it took only a couple smacks with a hammer and punch to get it out. This shouldnt be this difficult. Something is obviously wrong here. Ive never had experience with pinion bearing races before but this is unreal. its the same part # as the old one too. please help, im going crazy! I think ive tried everything but heat.

 

i've never even touched rearend gears or anything but it seems like it would be a good idea to have the rearend out of the car and on a bench where you can access it easily and it definitely sounds like you'd be lucky if you haven't already damaged something.

 

i did a gear swap a bit back and i had no problem installing any of the races, there is definitly something wrong you should not have to beat it is, i would not heat it or the surrounding area this will weaken it. take a pic if you car maybe we can see something

 

usable advice, anyone?

 

the above reply wasnt meant for you. 86ta. i will take some pics right now and show you guys

 

They make a tool for that..... race installer you should be able to rent one from auto zone or whatever you have around you. I just put together my rearend and you have to pound them in there pretty good they dont just slide right in, you dont want them spinning in there so they have to be a tight fit. get the right tool before you mess stuff up and have to buy new bearings

 

here is the working area with race in as much as it will go

 

here is the hockey puck tool

 

here is the tool at work. let me know what you think. why wont it go in?!?!

 

bump

 

Try putting the race in the freezer overnight. I have done this with tranny counter shafts to get bearings to slide on and it seems to help.

 

should i drive the race in with the old bearing in it to help even out pressure. and is it really make a difference if you freeze the race overnight or not?

 

Definitely give this a try. I did that for the axle seals and they went in like a dream. I didn't change races in my 95 formular buildup/swap because they weren't worn. Nice idea with the hockey puck but it might have to much "cushion" to drive in any further.

Super Chevy has a buildup and said you can you a punch to tap around the edges of the race to get it in. Here is a link to that article.
Changing Rearend Gears

Valvoline says you can use a 2x4 to hammer them in.
Valvoline.com - Car Care Articles

Or you can buy the tool here:
Detail Page for 12600 Bearing Race and Seal Driver - Lisle Corporation

I don't think Autozone has this tool as a loaner.

 

I use a punch, or a real dull cold chisel.

You just gotta be careful not do damage the surface of the race or chip the edge or anything like that; don't get greedy and try to knock it in all at once, just take your time and tap it in GENTLY and STRAIGHT (don't let it get cocked).

 

thanks for the advice. the articles help, i guess the only thing im hoping for is the freezing to work. Any onther suggestions?

 

You'll be amazed at how well the freezer trick works. I've had parts drop right in that I was beating half to death at normal temperature using this method. I had a Dana 60 carrier assembly that wouldn't go in at all one time, and it dropped right in after putting it in the freezer for about an hour. I'm sure you've probably already done this, but put the new race back to back with the old one and make sure they're both the same outer diameter. Even though the part# is the same, you might've gotten an oddball that was machined wrong, so compare them to each other and make sure. As far as installing it, you can use the old race on top of the new one and keep tapping around the circumference with a hammer until the new one is fully seated. Or like sofa said, used a dull cold chisel or a brass drift. I've used the cold chisel method quite a few times with good results. Good luck!

 

forget the freezer hose it down with a can of r134a or a can on "canned air" held upside down

 

man, I don't remember mine being that hard to do...
whoa, your local, cool.

I think used a socket or something, and hammered that in. Freezer would work well, or a can of compressed air upside down. Freezer is free though.
That is, if you can get it back out again now that it's halfway in

Yea, I think that puck is absorbing your hammer whacks too much, I wouldn't use rubber.

Are you beefing it up at the same time? I'm thinking solid pinion spacer and girdle specifically.

 

i agree i have never seen one this hard have mics or calipers check od size on old an new we have some idiot at work that dont check work a bad one might have got out the door these people never last long. freezer an some heat might do the trick.

 

i just got it in guys, thanks for the advice the freezing worked. one of the best tricks ive ever heard, sonix, i actually just moved near vancouver, havent updated my sh*t yet. ill keep you posted on the build up if anything crazy comes up.

 

I just recently installed a new posi and gear set, and I used the technique ede mentioned... Let me just say that that is HANDS DOWN the way to install those bearing races... Hosed the inner pinion race down a bit, then took it over with my piece of wood and hammer... Three taps and it was in... That was amazing after the effort with the slide hammer to get the old one out! Then I got excited and froze the **** out of the outer pinion race... Quickly brought it back to the axle, and pushed it ALL THE WAY IN (maybe 0.015" left) BY HAND!!! A few taps to seat it fully (and to make me feel better), and it was in... Very nice trick!!

 

just an update the diff is done btw, i got a good contact pattern and backlash is set. what a difference over an open 3.23 diff on its way out.