Raiden

I have the opportunity to get a Ford 9 inch for free. However, this is from an older Ford vehicle, I've no idea what it's out of???

What is needed to fab this rear end to fit a thridgen? I've never fabricated a rear end before. I have done one rear end swap in my Z. I know to fab this 9 inch, I will need to put new axles in, but other than that, I've no idea where to start, or if it would be money well spend purchasing one ready to bolt in to my thirdgen?

Thank you for your help

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Do a search, this is pretty common.
Stephen_87IROC went this route, but not many others did.
Look in the fabrication forum, there's a few active threads now about fabbing up rear ends, that'll give you an idea.
Width is just one of the hurdrels, torque arm mount it the other. Spring/shock/panhard/lca mounts are comparitevely easy.

AlkyIROC

An aftermarket bolt in housing with axles will cost you around $1000. You'll need to supply your own center section with a carrier to match the spline count of the axles which you could pick up cheap from a junk yard. It will only include the housings and proper length axles in whatever spline count you want. Minimum is 28 spline but I'd recommend going to 31 spline. My car is getting to the point where I'm reaching the maximum limit for my 31 spline axles. No street car needs more than 31 spline axles.

To use a junkyard 9" diff, you need to find one close enough to a third gen width. There's only a handful of vehicles that qualify. If you buy aftermarket axles, you can get them in Ford or Chev bolt pattern. The bolt in housing or the junkyard housing will need some sort of brake system. I use Ford 11 x 2-1/2" drum brakes for a very simple brake solution. My rims have dual bolt pattern so I can use the Ford or Chev bolt pattern. When I bought my axles, I got them with the Ford pattern.

All the mounts for shocks, springs etc need to come off a 10 bolt donor diff. Cut them off the tubes, clean up the brackets. Take lots of measurements since you only get one shot at welding them onto the 9" tubes. There's no easy way to attach the torque arm although many people have come up some good ideas. Some are weak, others are overkill. I eliminated my torque arm and installed ladder bars because my car isn't street legal and can survive driving around with ladder bars.

When you calculate what it's going to cost to modify a junkyard 9" housing to fit a third gen. it can be a lot cheaper to just buy an aftermarket bolt in housing. Like I said, both diffs will need some sort of brake system.

You can also get a complete, ready to go, everything done, bolt in 9" diff for around $2500.

Raiden

Stephen,

Thanks for the info! I was thinking that I may end up just purchasing a 9 inch that will bolt right in instead of making the one I fit. I wish I could find a dana 44, and I have been consdiering getting a junk yard 4th gen Vett rear end.

AlkyIROC

Converting a vette diff is no different than trying to convert any other diff. The only diff that will be a direct fit into a third gen is one from another third gen or one from a fourth gen. Anything can be made to fit anything if you're willing to invest enough time and money.

Raiden

Stephen,

Yea, I kind of figured that a vett rear end would be just as much work. I had an 87 vett and it really hooked up. I think it was due to the independant suspension in the rear. I had that car running low 12's without N2O. And man, would that bad boy hook up, the entire front end would make a Pounding noise as I took off from first gear!

Guess I gotta start saving for my bolt in 9 inch and some slicks

TZFBird

I just got done with my 9" fab. I transfered all the brackets over from the factory rear. They are only 28 spline, but I'm not building a drag car. 3rd member has 4.11 gears and limited slip.
Yahoo! Photos - tzfbird's Photos - Rearend

Hopefully everyone can see these pics of the rear installed. I am currently working on a torque arm, panhard bar, and am rebuilding the 700R4. It didn't like the first few days of driving with the 4.11's. I was pretty hard on it.
The rear is a factory width (can't remember exactly). The stock rims barely clear the inner fender. I am using 2" spacers all around with 4th gen rims, so I am still having low clearance issues.
I would suggest saving time and buying a pre-fab 9". You will save a lot of agrivation. Unless you are tight on money and have plenty of time.

AlkyIROC

That middle bracket bolt would have been stronger if the Tee part of the bracket was lower and the pipe was welded to the underside of the housing instead of butted against the front. Other than that, the bracket looks good.

RAPIDFIRE

To use a junkyard 9" diff, you need to find one close enough to a third gen width. There's only a handful of vehicles that qualify. If you buy aftermarket axles, you can get them in Ford or Chev bolt pattern. The bolt in housing or the junkyard housing will need some sort of brake system. I use Ford 11 x 2-1/2" drum brakes for a very simple brake solution. My rims have dual bolt pattern so I can use the Ford or Chev bolt pattern. When I bought my axles, I got them with the Ford pattern.

hi stephen
please question you center pinion 9" , axles same diameter problem brakes like resover it

RAPIDFIRE

hi stephen
please question you center pinion 9" , axles same diameter problem brakes like resover it

puzz85

Im planning a 383 build for spring and would really like to do a 9in swap at the same time. i want to get that power to the ground. Any suggestions on where to look for a pre-fab?

AlkyIROC

www.spohn.net as well as a few others have the bolt in 9" housing package which includes the axles. You supply the center section and brakes. Unless you have a lot of fabrication skills, that will be your best option for a better diff.

big gear head

Moser makes stamped housings that look like a stock housing and they have the fabricated housings that are bolt in for the 3rd and 4th gen F body. You can get a housing alone, a housing and axle package or a complete rear end.