-I'm fairly new here and am looking for threads w/ photos of the auto to T5 swap. Like maybe a photo or template layout for cutting the shifter hole, same for the pedals and clutch rod. Anything that'll help smooth the way. I am hoping to track a 5spd car down in a junkie to take photos also but camaros don't last long in yards here on LI. Also want to know what the stock rear gear was for a 90-92 5 spd. I'm changing out the 2:77 in my 88 Iroc to a 10 bolt 3:23posi w/ 1LE brakes. If the 3:23 is too tall for the world class tranny maybe I should just stay w/ a regular T5? Any thoughts/ideas would be greatly appreciated, thx,

 

I don't have any of the before stuff but I can snap a few during pictures later today or tomorrow. The template fir the clutch master cylinder should already be but into the factory padding under your carpet. Hopefully you still have that because it will make things easier. You need to be cautious though when you drill the two holes for the clutch master cylinder's mounting bracket. There isn't really any room for error.

The transmission tunnel is easy. Bolt the bellhousing to the engine. Take a tape measure and measure from the surface on the bellhousing the T5 mounts to. Make a dot in the center of the tunnel. Measure 3" to the front of the car and to the rear. Measure 2 1/2" to the left and the right. Make your staight lines and get to cutting. I warn you know though, the factory hole measurements listed above are way to large. I will be welding some metal back in to narrow down the hole a considerable amount.

If I had it to do over again I would cut to these spes:

3" to the front. From there I would take measurements of the area the shifter mounts to on the transmission and measure to the sides and to the back from that 3" mark. Cut a little larger though for some flexability.

 

-yeah, this is the kind of stuff I'm looking for. How was it to put the pedals in? I'm trying to gather as much info before I dive in. Looking forward to seeing pics. My carpet and padding are all there. I need to get my head under the dash and see about the pedals. I've got the bell housing and slave, the tranny should be here soon too. So far I'm buying a T5 from a '88, so without trying the car will remain all "88 except for the '86 rear end.

 

I did not forget about you. I just got reall tied up in the car having to fab some stuff I didn't have like the clutch housing cover that bolts to the bottom of the bellhousing. I was able to cut the duct cover for the TH700R4 and make it work. I also had some issues getting the flexplate bolts to break loose as I didn't have a tool to aid me. It took forever to get a screwdriver wedged in anywhere. Anyway, a few more snags like almost never getting the damn driveshaft installed and taking my time, I spent way more time than I would have liked on this. Add to that the fact I don't rush and am methodical and you get two days straight with no sleep under the car lol.

I will get the pictures up later today (Saturday 05.19.07). I took pictures of the clutch master cylinder hole after it was cut, the transmission tunnel opening with the tranny installed, and the fabbed clutch dust cover. I didn't feel any other pictures would help anyone as a Chilton or Haye's manual will show the rest.

Word is, you can remove the power brake booster and not have to disconnect the brake lines to the brake master cylinder. Apparently you just need to carfeully push the brake master cylinder out of the way with the lines attached. This might be advised unless you just want to bleed your brakes. You will have to bleed the hydraulic clutch though. This is fairly quick and simple.


Get a freaking pilot bearing install tool. The socket and a hammer is a PITA and it takes forever. I read after doing it that it helps to put the bearin in the freezer overnight so it shrinks the metal down enough to make it a snap to knock into the crankshaft.


The transmission was a pain to stab but, I was using a floor jack and a piece of wood to do it by myself. I did have to have my little brother work the jack up and down for me to get it to stab through the throwout bearing without taking it off the fork balancing the T5 on the jack with one hand while adjusting the angle with the block of the wood and stabbing it with the other wasn't my idea of fun lol. Be sure to have help.

It was a super tight fit though. I mean the tight where your scared something is going to break tight. This happened after I got the input shaft of the T5 through the clutch. I could only get it close enough to get the T5 to bellhousing bolts started and I had to sinch it down the rest of the way.


And, this can NEVER be said enough. Be 100% positive your T5 is in neatral before you install the shifter. If it isn't, you'll have a panic attack because it will not shift at all.



OK now for your questions. The pedals are easy and difficult. No modifications need to be done. They will flat out bolt right in. You will need to drop your steering column down to get them bolted down tight. You will also need to loosen the nut and bolt that holds the the pedals to the assembly. Tighten down the support rod for the clutch to the clutch master cylinder first though. Then loosen the nut and bolt described above. You need to do this so you can pivot the support brace for the brake side out of the way to get to the bolts. The four nuts that tie the pedal assembly to the bolts out of the back of the power brake booster are 15mm and you will need a deep wall socket. The bolt holding the pedal assembly to your dash is a 13mm or 14mm. I do not recall which at this point.

If you want the car to start, I advise you use a clutch safety switch and it's patch cable from a donor car. The patch cable plugs into the the swiitch and then into a femal connector you will find behind the driver's side kickpanel. If you don't use this, you will need to jump the correct wires in the neutral/park switch for the automatic.


Make sure you get these items from the junkyard as well. It's the only place you will find any of the first three items listed. The dealers do not carry them and they can no longer get them. You might be able to buy the clip but, no one had or carries the clip for the brake pedal. At least not where I live. You can not get the reservoir and the tube for the clutch master cylinder unless you drop $200.00+ at a dealrship for the entire assembly.

Clutch slave cylinder heat shield

Clutch dust cover (bolts to bottom half of the bellhousing)

Torque Arm Mount (both halves)

The bolts to hold all three of those items into place.

The retainig clip for the clutch (You can use the clip for the brake if your pedal has the grove cut in it. Good luck though if you have large hands and poor deterity with them.)

Clutch master cylinder reservoir and tube.

It's all the little things that will slow you down, pull you over budget, and drive you insane. I think I have listed all of those for you though.


Having done all of this once, I could whip through the next conversion. A lot of it just time consumption from caution and hadn't been there hadn't done it.

Let me know if you have any snags.

 

-thx! I'm waiting on the trans and bellhousing and stuff to get here and then will start. Prolly in 2 wks I'll start, still gotta buy a clutch pak. I appreciate the tips, especially like freezing the thrust bearing. I'm gonna search for the patch cable too. Sounds like yours worked out ok though, how do you like it now? Joe

 

It makes my pants tight and moist lol . . .

Yea mine worked out just fine. Be very aware though you need 500 miles of stop and go traffic to break in the flywheel and clutch setup BEFORE you apply full power to it. This is very hard to do. I have a lead foot and a bunch of kids that run around town thinking their Hondas are just the cat's meow. I've been good though until tonight. A Cavalier got to see half throttle and still thought he was fast. I guess I sort of lead him on though lol. At the light he saw 3/4 throttle through 3rd gear.

I don't know if I can keep putting it around town. I've still got a good 300 miles left to acquire.



Anyway, as they say this thread is worthless without pictures. These are the only ones I took because, I thought they were the critical ones. I didn't get a picture of the clutch master cylinder hole empty. You have the factory padding as a guide though. My padding caused me to cut to low. Now I have a gap I need to fill as a result. I should have gone slow and started high and then done several test fits. This was the only spot I rushed in because I thought for sure the padding would have been the proper size.

The Cuts:













The Fabbed Clutch Dust Cover (made from the automatic's dust cover)













Again, let me know if you need anything else.

 

the dust cover looks real good, nice work. How'd you make out with the starter? We're you able to re-use the original? I've read conflicting reports. Also, how's the engine run? Are you using the Auto shift (original) e-prom and chipware? I don't expect a problem but was wondering. I hear ya on the 500 miles, must be lillin ya. I go about 300mi a wk just to work so I'm usually around 400 mi. overall. The 3:23 10 bolt goes in Tues, then my tax return bought me LS1 brakes for the front from Ed Miller. And then the 5 spd. I'm stoked! I'm hoping for and expecting a real nice, fast, good handling roadburner! Joe

 

I was good on the starter BUT, I have a LT1 Starter from a 1995 Corvette installed in my car. That means it's small, lighter, and has gear reduction ofr greater cranking power.

Yes I am using the factory ECM and chip. Everything runs fine.