-I'm getting a little bleary eyed searching posts and was wondering if someone could answer a couple questions that I'm sure have been asked a million times.!? I have an '88Iroc. Not planning it I bought a T5 from a '88LO3, tag #1352-176 which is listed as a WC (world class?). I got everything from the pedal ***'y down thru, hydraulics,flywheel,bellhousing and shifter. Questions are:
-Do I need a crossmember from a 5 spd car or will the Auto trans member work?
-same question for the torque arm mount? and the trans mount, different?
-Where can I get a speedo gear? I'm putting a 3:23 posi 10 bolt in next wk and will need to get the correct gear to match the change. Is it a dealer only item?
Thx, Joe

 

1. auto will work
2. will work, might need a lil mod.
3cant anwser that one

 

-thx!

 

I didn't try to use the automatics torque arm mount. I was under the impression it had to be a manual version. The half that bolts to the transmissionld is different. Your tranny mount should be fine as was pointed out. It's sort of universal to an extent. The one I bought from Energy Suspension was for GM cars and trucks. I knew by looking at it that it would work on the Camaro. You don't need to mod anything on that mount. The factory one shouldwork as well since it's the same crossmember for automatics and manuals.

On the speedo gear, I would ask around at your local stores like Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. I wouldn't think speedo gears would be a dealer only item. Speaking of which I need to get clocked to make sure the speedo gears are right in my car. Sure feels like it's going faster than 60mph but, maybe everyone was just driving slow tonight lol. Need to see what ratio is in my diff as well. I have to go easy for 500 miles till the clutch and flywheel break in but i sure as hell haven't noticed an slipping or lack of grunt in 1st gear so I don't think I have a 2.73 after all.

Make sure you get a new pilot bearing and that the clutch and pressure plate you buy has a new throwout bearing.


You did get the patch cable that was plugged into the clutch safety switch on the pedal assembly right? If not you will need to make one or jump the wires at the cable for the neatral/park safety switch for your automatic shifter.

 

-well it seems the patch cable I'm going to have to look for or make one up like you said. And I'll get a torque arm mount too. I'm hoping to have everything together before starting so there's no snags and you guys have been great!, thx!, I'm thinking I'll photo document as much as possible for one giant thread for folks who do this in the future, Joe

 

Try ti get the torque arm mount at the scrap yard if possible. It's going to run you about $70.00 (the cost of both halves combined) + tax at the dealership. Either way, I strongly encourage you to drill out the rivets that hold the factory rubber in the mounts and then install an Energy Suspension (or anyone's) poly mount. The rubber sucks, flexes, will tear, and it's cut in half. The replacement poly is a single piece that fits into the two halves of the factory brackets. It's well worth the cost. I bring it up because, you said you were going to start in about two weeks. That will give you time to find one or order it.

Look at your torque arm though. There are two designs and thus two bushings. One has the U in the middle facing the driver's side. The other has the U facing the passenger's side. Make sure you get the right one because you cain't just turn the bushing around.

 

Well I may have found a torque arm mount but I guess I'll have to climb under the car and ck the one that's there now for the u groove you talk of. With that poly mount in there doesn't it transmit more vibes down thru to the back end. I mean for racing and hole shots I can see it but I'm just wondering if I really need it for regular street driving? I also may have a patch cable for the neutral safety switch, but then got thinking some more. Would the 5.7 e-prom even have the circuitry for that? I originally thought I would just jump the wires at the console. It would be like the old days when the mtr would crank, clutch in or out. I've been looking at available clutch paks. I definately am staying away from the stage 3 and/ kevlar clutches as I'm relatively stock and don't need that kind of grabbing power coming off the line. Trying to narrow it down from just a basic Borg unit, a Borg SD or Centerforce. Any Ideas or past experiences? Like I said earlier my motor is relatively stock, And I use it mainly for work and long road trips. I will probably run it on a road track once in a while but I'm not setting it up for drags/hole shots. Don't get me wrong though, every once in a while it will have to come out of the hole hard, just not regularly. I may have said it before, but thx for the input and help, Joe

 

The problem with the rubber mounts is the flex anytime you get on it not just out of the hole. THe 92 I have has a cut in the transmission tunnel from the talishaft constantly hitting it. That is mostly caused by the actual transmission mount. I advise replacing both though.

I haven't noticed any vibrations from my poly mounts. Solid mounts are what cause you to feel the vibrations but, the only solid mounts I have seen for a 3rd Gen are motor mounts.


It's not like the mounts are expensive. I got the tranny mount at Autozone for $10.00 and I think the torque arm mount was around $20.00 at Summit. I would just cahnge them while you've got all that stuff off then you know you don't have to ever really have to worry about those mounts again.



As far as a clutch goes, I love my Centerforce Dual Friction clutch and pressure plate. It will set you back a good $300.00 though. The factory and OEM replacement clutches suck from what I hear. You need a decent clutch to help the T5 stay alive. The Centerforce DF is easy to shift and grabs like it needs to when it needs to.

And yes, your car's wiring is set up fM though like the automatic's does. At least not by looking at the schematics. with the same colour of wires though, they are almost certainly part of the same circuit.