I am doing a final checklist of things I need to have to do this T5 swap...i have damn near everything either brand new or degreased and powerwashed/cleaned up and ready to go, but I'm just a little concerned I might miss some small detail, so if you guys could come up with anything you could think of that i don't already have please let me know, id REALLY appreciate some sort of reassurance. I've read the article on this site for how to swap a T5 into a auto car but I just want to triple check to see if I need anything else. Since I am doing this at my dad's friends house since he has a lift, I can't have anything missing or going wrong really.

Things I Have
- tranny
- bellhousing w/ clutch fork
- shifter
- clutch disc / pressure plate
- throw out bearing
- flywheel w/ cover
- all bolts and nuts and transmission mount
- pedal assembly (already mounted)
- master/slave cylinder, resevoir, lines, w/ hole cut for m.cylinder

Things I Need
- Rear oil seal for tranny
- boot / dust cover for clutch fork
- cut hole for shifter (i have measurements for it)
- seal between shifter and tranny??? (is it just sealant or is there an actual seal you buy?)
- pilot bushing


I can't really think of any other things i need, i have all MAJOR components already from my doner car, what im worried about is all of the SMALL little things that I should replace like seals and **** that I don't really know about.

any help is much appreciated

 

i just used some really high temp silicon sealant and made sure i didn't use too much so it didn't get inside the tranny.

other than that it sounds like you have everything...

just make sure you have the right bolts for everything also... i had a pita with that. though i have bolts and nuts coming out my ears from all our hotrod projects i easily found replacements. i also had another 88 TA with a MT in it that i stripped down so i had all the parts.

looks like you forgot the crossmember!!! IIRC they are different. i dont know where my origional auto-trans crossmember was because i had swapped in a TH-400 almost 3 years ago and had to fabricate one.

good luck. and it took me less than 1 day to get the tranny swapped in, though i had already pulled the TH-400.

 

Do not forget pilot bearing,

Also replace the rear main seal if you have a one piece since you are in the neighborhood.

Also bleed the hydraulics on a bench before you install them. If I were you I would buy an aluminum slave and SS braided line. They are not required for normal driving but I have broken one and so have many others.

 

Crossmembers are the same. So are the driveshaft. Does your T5 have the torque arm mount? They are different. Under your dash, to the left of the steering column, is a pigtail that hooks to a smaller harness for the clutch switch. There is no need to worry with the automatic shifter wiring for the start circuit if you have this pigtail.

 

good call I will double check on the bolts and such, and label them.
i have the crossmember, just forgot to put it in, but good call on catching that =)

ya i hope it only takes a day, i have to remove the 700r4 but i will have a lift so hopefully its easier than taking the T5 out was on my back
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Is a pilot bearing different than a pilot bushing, because I plan on getting a pilot bushing as listed above, as well as the rear oil seal.

i will bleed the hydraulics before i put it in thanks for that tip, i already bought a complete assembled hydraulics kit, GM stock replacement so its too late for braided line, and the stock one was perfectly fine except for a leak at the piston rod/master cylinder.

my T5 only has the crossmember....i think. if it had to be unbolted during the removal of the T5 i kept it and saved it no matter what, so if there was one, i have it.

im not sure what you mean about all of that wiring stuff and not having to worry about the start circuit.

i threw out the safety switches for the clutch since I am already in the habit of pushing the clutch it when starting the car, no big deal, but what do you mean about the automatic shifter wiring for the start circuit??

 

double post sorry

 

the automatic shifter wiring for the start circuit is that bit black slider thing that attached to the shifter before you removed your 700r4. It has 3 big wires (neut saftey switch) and a few smaller wires (reverse lights) not sure which are for which but colors i remember (3 years ago!) are yellow and purple.

 

oh okay...

...im still a little confused as to what i will need to do now that i threw out the switches for the clutch.

and what will not work if i don't mess with any of that? my reverse lights, neutral safety switch, and something else?

 

well you can do what i did... i just tied up the auto saftey switch so that its in "park" which means it can be started, but i do not have reverse lights. i also set the flag in my ECM that the car is a manual... runs fine and runs seriously hard... i wouldn't worry too much, just put it all together right and make sure its mechanically sound, then take it for a drive.

 

im currently using an ECM from my manual car so that should be fine

all i really care about is that i have reverse lights i suppose, im not worried about the safety switches

thanks for bringing that stuff up though

 

If you bought the full assembly from GM, you shouldn't have to bleed it. They are supposed to be pre-bled.

I've broken both the slave and the master cylinder. Cheap flippin' plastic. I ordered metal replacement units from Summit and I'm just waiting for them to arrive.

 

you broke them during installation?

 

i've been looking up this stuff to make sure so far what i can tell for the wiring is from the connection that goes on the auto shifter, there are a large yellow and purple wire which is the neutral safety switch, i think you can just splice them together so it just thinks you always have it in park/neutral, or like you have the clutch in, cause i tossed that switch to. lol. then the dark blue and dark green are for the reverse lights that go to the drivers side plug on the t5. im still looking for info on the last wires tho.

Joel

 

Yeah, you can just splice the two thick wires together to bypass the safety neutral switch. And like ToFast said, just figure out which two wires are for the reverse lights, get the right plug from the junkyard to splice them on, and plug it into the switch on the driver's side of the trans. If you haven't bought a pilot bushing yet, I'd recommend getting the pilot bearing instead. The bearing produces less friction than the bushing does, and either of them will fit the same.

 

No one has the exact size hole or exactly where to install th master cylinder.

 

No, broke them driving. The dammed pivot ball stud for the fork backed out. The slave cylinder bottomed out and the snap ring sanpped off one of the housings retainer tabs from normal driving. The master cylinder started to leak along with it.

To save any future hassle I used metal units. That metal slave cylinder was about a bitch to asemble though. I like to have NEVER gotten the snap ring in.


Sorry for the very late reply lol.