I GOT A WC T5 OUT OF A 84 MUSTANG TO PUT IN MY 91 CAMARO GOT EVERYTHING TO BOLT UP BUT THE STARTER WONT LINE UP WITH TH HOLES ANT IDEAS???? thanks for the help found a starter that will fit 64 impala w/283

 

yes, for starters (HA HA! I made a funny!!!), turn the caps lock off.


next - are you using a 153 tooth starter or a 168? you need a 153. also, make sure you have the correct starter for your block, either straight bolts or staggered. the last bit is usually not an issue, because a great many blocks are drilled and tapped for both patterns.

come back when you've -

A: turned your caps lock off.

B: checked your starter.

 

Exact ratios:
2.952381 / 1.9375 / 1.3362069 / 1.0000 / 0.7280303

 

the flywheel came out of a 83 camaro 5.0

 

OK, I've searched and searched, but can't find anything and didn't know if any of you could answer me. What makes the v6 t5 weaker than the v8 t5? Also you have said the v8 is 26 spline. I pulled a 26 spline t5 from my 89rs 2.8L. Are you absolutely positive that only the v8 is 26 spline or can the v6 be 26 as well? I will get the tag numbers soon to verify what it is.

 

As far as I know, there are two main differences: First, the input shaft on a V8 T5 has 26 splines, and there are 14 on the V6 version. The other difference is gear ratios of the forward speeds.

There is also the earlier type, the NWC (non-world class) and the later type (World Class) which is a stronger version of the T5. From everything I have heard and read, the T5 isn't built to withstand high performance conditions, at least in part because the aluminum case actually stretches under high stress.

I have also observed that those of us 'old farts' who don't beat the living daylights out of our cars are able to get plenty of good service out of our T5s.

I am by no means an authority on the T5, but I know someone who is: Bob Hanlon of Hanlon Motorsports. They are an advertiser here on TGO, and a wealth of information about the T5. They are always happy to take your phone calls and answer questions, even on the weekends.

 

kevin91z: i am working on putting a 5-speed in my s10. With the 7 tooth drive gear & the 19 tooth driven gear, do i still need the "H" adapter for the speedo? GM says to use 9 tooth drive gear & an 18 tooth driven & an "H" adapter to make the change.

thanks for the help
bstanz48

 

Hey Guys,

I'm exploring engine options for my 84 TA. Running the stock from the factory T5 that was resealed in the early 90s or so, and the stock 3.73s that came with the car from the factory as well. I believe the rear end was rebuilt at some point in the early 90s as well. I remember the car sitting in the garage while my dad worked on it.

Now that I've laid that out, I'm considering three options for my car. First, rebuild the original motor which is nothing more than a short block with a cam and lifters and oil pump and filter still in there, and if the price and gain is good maybe some port work. Second option, get an L69 long block from somewhere and drop it in and go. Finally, the last option, run min of 350 horses at the flywheel from a stroker or 350 or 305 and keep the same transmission and rear I have now. I'm open to lowering that number to 300 HP as looking at the TTA which has been dynoed at somewhere in the low 300 range shows that even 300 HP makes these cars fly.

Now if I want to keep my stock drivetrain (trans and rear) what is the highest I can go with occasional abuse HP wise before I destroy the drivetrain every time. I was talking to a guy with a 300 HP 305 and he said he hasn't had problems with his T5 and rear. I guess it will come down to price. If I can get a built motor for lower cost than rebuilding the original and keep the same drivetrain I might do it. But I don't want to go that route without knowing the limits of the T5 and rear end I have in my car.

Thanks

 

so if you put a WC T5 behind a stock L98 and avoid totally hammering it it would probably survive right? I read somewhere you can help it's survival with a Hurst shifter since it has better stops to prevent over shifting.

 

Just to add something to the FAQ here, I did my T5 swap and the "pivot ball" that the fork pivots on turned out to be fairly worn and wouldn't allow the clutch to fully disengage. I found the part number, along with the fork boot, from GM. Its discontinued, but Vintage Parts has both parts for the V8 T5:

Pivot Ball: 14036058
Fork Boot: 14075724

They've got a good amount of each, something like 80 of the pivot ***** and 40 of the boots.

I ordered mine today; so we'll see probably Tuesday how they look and verify that its 100% correct. The reason I mention both of these is that I spent a good amount of time today trying to locate the pivot ball and came up with nothing. I called numerous trans shops and nobody had a supplier for 'em. I'm probably going to buy at least one extra for my T5 so that I have an extra if I ever need it since they seem so scarce. I doubt I would have needed it, but my T5 was run before with a CenterForce clutch and my guess is it put more pressure on the ball and cause it to wear more.

 

Hello I have a 1993 WC truck T5 behind a Flathead. Not a lot of horse power. Lots of low end tork. It is in a light weight 29 roadster. Queston is will the T5 stand up to a one and a while clutch dump. Parden the ford stuff on a chevy Board.

 

T5's are incredibly weak - I would avoid anything that gives it any more abuse than it needs.

 

It says that the tpi 350 had too much power for the t5 an gm didn offer this option ti public? Does this mean i counldnt put a t5 in my 91 trans am 350?

 

Welcome to TGO. Many members have done the swap, to include me. If you drive reasonably, chances are you'll be fine--rod it and goodbye. BTW, a search will more often than not find the info you're seeking.

JamesC

 

i am not sure if this is the right place to ask but the question will be about the t5. i have a 92 camaro origanal 305 with over 300,000 miles .the rear end is out of i belive to be a 87 ,its a 9bolt with 3.23 or 3.27 gears cant rember right now which one.
i also haveparts car its a 89 rs t5 with to belive to be a 3.08 rearend . from what i read this should be a world class t-5.
my question is if i swap the t-5 over to the 92 will i have to change the drive and driven gears so that the speed-o works right.also if i have to hange them what ones i will need. and where could i get new gears from
any help would be much apprecited
thanks
bruce

 

This link is also a sticky and should provide the info you need:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ve-driven.html

JamesC

 

thanks jamesc that is a great link answered all my questions

 

What makes the WC stronger than the NWC? Is it stronger gears, or is the case stronger? I noticed someone said the cases are machined differently. Can a NWC be built up to handle more torque like a WC?

 

can anyone post the link of the stronger aftermarket housing for a t5?...i have a spare t5 in good condition, and i would like to change the bearing-seals etc in it and add this stronger housing/casing...

 

what is the torque spec's for the v8 t5 trans of the flywheel and clutch/pressure plate? tks

 

what is the torque spec's on the flywheel and the pressure plate on a v8 WC t5 tranny? tks

 

G-force makes the case.

 

65# on the flywheel....45# on the pressure plate.

 

I use straight 30W oil as told by an ex GM engineere

The T5 page
http://www.inliners.org/Jack/t5_page.html

CAMARO T5 Hybrid
http://www.inliners.org/Jack/T5tech.html

 

Hey gang, this is what I'd like to know about the T-5, and the Camaro.

I'm replacing the clutch in my 88 Camaro, with a Zoom HP kevlar, odes anyone know the torque specs for the bellhousing to the engine, and the transmission to the bellhousing, and the pressure plate to the engine. Any help would be greatly appeciated! Thanks...

 

So I have a 91 rs manual. I'm assuming it's a wc t-5. It calls for ATF dexron II. From what I hear dexron II can't be found. Can I use a different ATF dexron?

 

Torque the bellhousing bolts and the pressure plate bolts to 35 foot pounds. Also, it's a good idea to use some medium strength (blue 242) Loctite on those bolts to keep them from working loose later on. I'd probably go about 45-50 foot pounds on the trans to bellhousing bolts. If you need to re-install the flywheel, go 60 foot pounds on the flywheel to crankshaft bolts and use blue Loctite on them too. Unless you're using a new flywheel, make sure to get it resurfaced at a machine shop. You need a fresh surface on it for the new clutch disc. In fact, most clutch manufacturers will void the warranty if the flywheel isn't resurfaced before installing the new clutch. Btw, I noticed Dyno Don gave a little bit higher torque specs. Those specs would be ok too if you wanted to go a bit tighter on everything. Either way, as long as you use blue Loctite on the bolts, they shouldn't have a problem coming loose.

 

I think the latest ATF for GM is Dexron IV. Whatever the case, Dexron III or IV is compatible as a replacement for Dexron II. And yeah, if your trans is the original one for your car it should be a WC model. 88 and newer f-bodies got the WC T-5.

 

is it possible to build a t5 to withstand a 4bbl 350? i want to make my car stick , but cant afford a 6peed and if i got a 4 speed my fuel milage would suuuuuuuuuuuck. help!

 

They hold up just fine behind a 4bbl 350 as long as you don't hammer on it a lot. High rpm clutch dumps and powershifting (i.e. clutchless shifting) will kill one pretty fast. You can beat the snot out of a T56, Muncie, or Super T10 without worrying too much, but not a T5. If you build a T5 using G-Force's gearset, they'll take a ton of abuse, but for the cost of that kit(about $1500), you're spending close to the same amount of money that you would for a T56 or a Tremec TKO. I ended up redoing my original 700r4 with Dana's Street/Strip kit, Transgo shift kit, and a stall converter. But if I ever decide to go stick, I did pick up a TKO 5 speed that's in storage at the moment. The T5 just wasn't worth the trouble in my opinion since I don't want to worry every time I decide to slam through the gears while racing or just for fun. The TKO is damn near bulletproof and I picked it up locally for a grand.

 

im kinda a noobie with transmissions lol, tko just another kinda 5 speed? and yeah exactly i may just end up saving my penneys for a t56, itl pay off in the long run but its just the fact of saving up the money i always get money and buy stupid stuff for my car (bad habit haha) and anyone know if i got a t10 4 speed right, if i got a rear end with like high gears or somehitng would it even out my fuel milage. cause i wanna be able to go on the highway if i need to and not be redlining in 4th gear going 80 lol

 

Yeah the Tremec TKO is an aftermarket 5 speed. There's vendors like Forte's Parts Connection and Jam Performance that sell TKO kits that are set up for 3rd gen f-bodies. There are some benefits to using the TKO instead of a T56. Since you have an 88 Camaro, the TKO is set up for a cable driven speedo, whereas with the T56 you have to buy an expensive adapter to convert it from an electric speedo to a cable driven one. Another benefit to the TKO is it uses the same clutch as a stock T5. The clutch required for a T56 is a lot more expensive, especially for a performance one that'll hold up well. The TKO uses a Ford style speedo drive, so it does require an adapter for GM cars, but the adapter is only about 80 bucks, compared to about 300 bucks to convert the T56 from electric to cable. In all honesty, you're better off going with a 5 or 6 speed versus an old T10 or Muncie 4 speed. You can run highway gears with an old 4 speed to help out gas mileage, but then you end up sacrificing your takeoff capability by not having low enough rearend gears, not to mention your clutch won't last very long. An overdrive trans gives you the best of both worlds, great launching capability from a dead stop and low rpms for freeway cruising. Another thing with running an old 4 speed is you have to buy an aftermarket torque arm/crossmember setup and use a longer driveshaft, so it doesn't come out much cheaper than using an OD trans. I replaced the Muncie in my 69 Camaro with a TKO 5 speed and it was definitely one of the best upgrades I've done to that car! It takes off like a bat outta hell and only spins about 2200 rpms at 75 mph! Not to mention the TKO shifts slick as snot compared to the old Muncie. Even when it's like 10 degrees outside I can shift the TKO with my fingertips. If you simply can't afford to go with a TKO or T56, going with a WC-T5 wouldn't be too bad. You just have to keep in mind that you can't hammer on it all the time and expect it to last a long time.

 

Anybody got a list of what all cars/trucks GM offered with the t-5 behind a v8 with the hydraulic clutch set up? Im scouting jyards to find a replacement bell and wanna make sure Im not over looking something that might have one.

 

As far as I know the only V8 T5 combo was in the F body cars. You might be able to use a truck bellhousing, or a 4.3 bellhousing. Most of the GM T5 transmissions had the same bolt pattern on the transmission, so a truck might have a useable bellhousing, even though it didn't have a T5.

 

I found an 80s model service truck yesterday with a bell, it just didnt have the bracket for the hydraulic clutch(had a z bar setup). So far its the only bell ive found that was even remotely close.

 

Unfortunately there's really not any other vehicle that would have the same kind of bellhousing. It has to come out of a 84-92, 3rd gen, V8 Camaro or Firebird. The F-body housing is unique because the trans isn't mounted straight up. It's actually rotated at an angle towards the driver's side. This also makes the f-body T5 tailshaft housing unique in that the part where the tranny mount bolts up is cast at an angle so that it's horizontal with the crossmember while the trans is at an angle. Also, the 84-92, f-body V6 bellhousing is different from the V8 one. They are kinda hard to come by in a junkyard, but they're way common to find on ebay most of the time. $50-$75 is a reasonable price for one. If they're asking more than that, I wouldn't bother.

 

Actually, in my application, I can use a bell that mounts the trans straight up. As long as it has the same bolt pattern and keeps the slave cylinder in roughly the same place. But thats moot point, I just so happen to have found one on here. And i found out Hawks has a few, but they want $250 for a used one.....thats half the price of a brand new scattershield.

 

i think that the T5's are becoming harder to find...especially good working ones, also the V8 bellhousings are getting hard to find too..people are starting to ask way higher prices than before,,up here NO junk yard has anything even close to a 3rd gen T5 ...also anything like a door or hood or interiors,,nothing...this causes the prices to go up for people who have parts and have demand for them...

 

$250 huh? Man I tell ya, Hawks is a good vendor, but whoever sets the prices for most of their used stuff needs to stop sniffing glue! Yeah, I've never managed to find a hydraulic style T5 bellhousing in the junkyards around here either, but I've bought a couple of them not long ago from members here on the site and I've only had to pay 50 bucks plus shipping for them. What's kinda ironic is that I have managed to grab a couple of the 82-83, mechanical linkage style T5 housings in the yards around here, and those are usually a lot harder to come by compared to the hydraulic ones. One of these days I'll throw those on Fleabay and cash in on them!

 

Ive seen a few on fleabay in the $150 price range, not including the normaly $20-$50 shipping.

 

Wow, I didn't realize they've gone up that much in price recently! I'll hang onto the spare ones I have until I need to raise some quick cash for one of my future projects!

 

You could just sell them on here to someone who really needs it for less than that and help some fellow 3rd geners out

 

Is there another way to find out if it's a W/C? Something that doesn't involve dismantling anything?

 

If you're really lucky and nobody's ever tampered with the trans before, there's usually a metal I.D. tag attached to one of the tailshaft housing bolts. If that tag happens to still be there, you can decode the trans by the number on the tag. I posted up a list of the different f-body, T5 model #'s wayyyyy back towards the beginning of this sticky. You can also remove the fill plug on the driver's side of the trans, stick your finger in the hole and see what kind of fluid is on the tip of your finger. If it's 90 wt. gear oil, it's probably a non-WC, if it's ATF, then you probably have a WC. Gear lube is always easy to tell cause that stuff friggin stinks!

 

According to my GM shop manual-84 Camero-it says to use ATF(Dexron ll in the manual 5 speed)and 80-90 weight in the 3 & 4 speeds-everything I read here says to use ATF only in the WC-T5s-what gives??

 

Yes the 84 T5s also used ATF. When I pulled my trans out on the first attempt to get it running it dumped ATF all over the ground. That particular trans was original to the car and it was taken out and re sealed in 1990 or so. The guy who rebuilt it...also put ATF in it and it ran almost 100K miles before the original L69 motor blew. When I put it back in and filled it back up with ATF it ran beautifully, even a local mechanic who did some fine tuning for me said so. At least til I pulled that LG4 out.

 

My 85 shop manual says ATF (check post #15 and 16--I don't think GM could really make up its mind).

JamesC

 

Yeah, actually it should be totally possible to use ATF in the non-WC T5's. But you can't go the other way and use gear lube(80-90wt.) in a WC, due to the paper style clutch lining that's part of the forward gear synchro assemblies. It's the same type of clutch material that's used in automatic transmission clutch packs, so ATF is a must-have in the WC T5's. In fact, ATF in the older T5's probably makes them shift smoother and easier compared to using thick gear lube.

 

It is not only possible, it is common. Bob Hanlon of Hanlon Motorsports recommends ATF only. My son's car has a non-WC T5 that I rebuilt, and it works very well with ATF.

 

From 1984 GM Camero shop manual