just checking in to see if anyone makes any brackets to mount the torque arm to non third gen f body axles yet

 

Randy,

It would be easy to make the bracket. But if your attaching it to a cast rear end, that is where the issue will be.

If your using a 9" or other steel rear end you just need to weld on some tube mounts and bolt the bracket on.

I can send pictures next week if you like.

 

Moser offers a mount for the 9" because the 9" housing is steel and can be easily welded to. Everyone else uses cast housings and you won't find anything aftermarket to allow you to mount the torque arm to it. There just isn't a big enough market to provide a mount for the third gen torque arm to install a junkyard diff.

It's easier to just sell an aftermarket bolt in differential.

 

The way the mustang guys do it with the 8.8's. Might lead to some ideas.

 

the 9" gear carriers are not cast iron ?

sure look like it to me

the one under the 77 F150 4x4 out here broke where the pinion bearing sits, it looks very much like cast iron

hmm

interesting


yeah i was meaning a cast iron center rear yeah

thought maybe someone would be making a bracket by now
but i guess not haha


i wouldnt be using a 9" anyways

i would be after either a truck 12 bolt or an 8.5"


to narrow and put under it

the most common out there, these two would be the only ones i could find


although i just realized something

the 88 toyota pickup i have has a 3.89 axle under it

it is the welded type housing the same as a 9" is

and is probably perfect width as well


hmmmmmmmmmmmm

i hate how these cars are so difficult to put another rear under


its really super annoying

i have access to welders and everything i would need though even a weaver four arm hydraulic 9000# lb vehicle lift so that helps a bit haha


i knew i had a reason to save the toyota rear when i take it to the shredder when the rusted through frame rail finally breaks in half soon


pics URL: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/88%20toyota/
thanks

 

You don't attach the torque arm mount to the gear carrier. On the 9" housing, mounts for the mount are welded to the housing itself which is steel. Trying to use the tiny housing and/or pinion carrier bolts to hold the amount of torque placed on them is looking for trouble. They're only 3/8" bolts and will easily sheer. It's not practical or safe to try and weld a mount onto a cast housing.

Toyota is only a 7.5" ring gear also so you're not gaining anything and you still won't have any way to attach the torque arm without a lot of fabrication.

 

RAndy,

The 9" carrier is cast. BUT what I was talking about is the rear end housing. The housing is steel. So you can (with a 9") easly weld some tube mounts to it so you can bolt on a TA mount bracket.

You can weld to cast iron. It is just not as easy as welking steel to steel.

Im my 12 bolt on my 67 RSSS 396 camaro I welded the axle tubes to the cast iron center so the axle tubes would not twist when I run slicks on my car. It can be done just have to preheat the housing and use the correct filler rod.

 

[quote=Stephen 87 IROC;3567824]

It's not practical or safe to try and weld a mount onto a cast housing.

[quote]


Stephen,

If welded correctly it is more thensafe to weld to cast iron. Just most people don't know how to properly weld cast iron.

 

That's just it. A good professional welder would do it and it won't be cheap but it's the backyard mechanics who think they can get a good weld that scares me.

The worst part about heating up the cast to get a good weld penetration is warping. After heating up the cast until it's glowing red then welding on a mount, when the housing cools, how accurate do you think the bearings are going to be? It also needs to be stick welded with the proper filler rod.

 

Heating it up until it is glowing red is WAY TOO HOT!!!! Actually you want to evenly heat the metal to about 250 to 325 degrees. Then you want to weld it with the correct filler rod.

I have never stick welded cast iron. What I do is take the correct stick rod, chip of the flux (coating) and then sand it clean and use that for my filler rod for tig welding it. I get beautiful beads and never had any cracking or warping.

If your curious to see what it looks like over the weekend I can take some pictures of my steel axle tubes welded to my cast housing on my 12 in my 1967.

The trick to welding cast iron is to slowly allow it to cool since the steel and cast cool at different rates it is very prone to cracking. Also after is has cooled it needs to be peened to stress relieve it. I have not seen anyone mention this part yet and that is HUGE!

 

also, a truck 12-bolt is not much tougher than a 8.5 10-bolt. The pinion is too small for any significant gains.

I'll try to get some pics of the 8.8 we did for a buddy of mine's 68 stang project. I used flat plate to "bridge" up and over the housing, extending approx 2-3 onto each axle tube. Then cut filler plates to lay in between the bridge plate and the housing. - Kinda looks like and aftermarket "star-wars" 9" housing. By welding out onto the axle tube it helped lessen the criticalness of the welds between the steel and the cast, plus 8.8 housings are cast steel, thus a bit easier anyhow.

 

A truck 12 bolt is weaker than a car 12 bolt.